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Most gas injected engines run at a higher speed when started from cold....It's the cold start application working....As long as the idle speed returns to normal within a minute or two....longer when the weather is colder.....nothing to worry about
You need to replace the handle itself. The inside of the handle where the metal cable fitting attaches causes too much strain on the plastic and the molded groove breaks. Ford has the same problem. I don't know why these car man. dont just go back to all metal exterior handles. If you have time you can probably fix it with epoxy and washers, but the fastest way is to get one aftermarket or from a junkyard. Hope this answers your question.
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REMEMBER TO REPLACE THE PADS AS WELL, NO USED PADS ON NEW ROTORS.
Raise the vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Place the drip pan under the caliper. Loosen the 10 mm bleeder screw on the top of the caliper.
Step 2
Spread the brake pads apart with the common screwdriver. Place the screwdriver in the slot in the center of the caliper where the pads can be seen. With the nose of the screwdriver, pry between the rotor and the pad and pull the caliper outward toward you. The piston is being depressed into its housing as the caliper is pulled out. When the caliper comes to its limit outward, push the caliper back away from you and insert the screwdriver into the inside pad between the pad and the rotor. Once again pull the screwdriver toward you until the caliper piston is compressed into its bore.
Step 3
Tighten the 10 mm bleeder screw. Remove the caliper and support it where it is not hanging on the brake hose. Letting the caliper hang on the brake hose will damage the hose and cause brake failure.
Step 4
Remove the caliper support if it interferes with the removal of the rotor. Some vehicles don't require the removal of the support. Remove the rotor by pulling it off. If it is stuck, hit it with a hammer a few times between the studs.
Step 5
Install the caliper support and caliper in the reverse order they were taken off. Install the wheels and let the vehicle down. Check the brake fluid and fill as necessary to the proper level.
Step 6
Start the vehicle and pump the brakes very slowly until you have a high pedal. Remember that by expanding the calipers they have to re-adjust. You will not have any braking when you first start the car. Do not try to move the car until you have pumped the brake pedal sufficiently to feel a firm pedal.
Rear-Wheel-Drive Vehicles
Step 1
Raise the vehicle and support on jack stands. Remove the wheels. Place the drip pan under the caliper. Loosen the 10 mm bleeder screw on the top of the caliper.
Step 2
Spread the brake pads apart with the common screwdriver. Place the screwdriver in the slot in the center of the caliper where the pads can be seen. With the nose of the screwdriver, pry between the rotor and the pad and pull the caliper outward toward you. The piston is being depressed into its housing as the caliper is pulled out. When the caliper comes to its limit outward, push the caliper back away from you and insert the screwdriver into the inside pad between the pad and the rotor. Once again, pull the screwdriver toward you until the caliper piston is compressed into its bore.
Step 3
Tighten the 10 mm bleeder screw. Remove the caliper and support it where it is not hanging on the brake hose. Letting the caliper hang on the brake hose will damage the hose and cause brake failure.
Step 4
Remove the bearing cap in the center of the rotor. Remove the cotter pin. Remove the large nut that retains the bearings and rotor. Wobble the rotor with your hands and the front bearing will come out.
Step 5
Reinstall the spindle nut with just a few threads. Grabbing the rotor with both hands, pull the rotor off with slight down pressure and with a quick ****. The spindle nut will grab the rear bearing and seal as you pull the rotor off and come out at the same time.
Step 6
Install the bearings into the new rotor. Grease the bearings first and install the rear large bearing then install the grease seal with the hammer. Install the rotor on the spindle and insert the front small bearing followed by the large washer and the retaining nut.
Step 7
Tighten the retaining nut just until there is no longer any freeplay then tighten an additional 90 degrees. Do not over tighten the retaining nut as it will not allow the bearings to expand and they will wear out rapidly. Install the cotter pin.
Step 8
Install the caliper support and caliper in the reverse order they were taken off. Install the wheels and let the vehicle down. Check the brake fluid and fill as necessary to the proper level.
Step 9
Start the vehicle and pump the brakes very slowly until you have a high pedal. Remember that by expanding the calipers they have to re-adjust. You will not have any braking when you first start the car. Do not try to move the car until you have pumped the brake pedal sufficiently to feel a firm pedal
Start with fuel system. Listen for fuel pump humm at fuel tank No humm check wiring to pump for power. Then check for spark at plugs and wires. Remove wire from coil and hold near engine and see arch when you crank. No arch. Replace ignition Modular inside distributor cap or cap or rotor
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Fixed Problem (it was my van) no power to ignition wire at starter. Replaced Ignition lock cylinder. just worn down. (Delivery van 50-60 starts a day). 160k miles.
the high humidity (water) is attacking your electrical starting system, whens the last time you changed your spark plug wires , distributor cap & rotor ? how about your fuel & air filters ? cleaned your battery terminals ? try it , it will help !!!!!!!!!
Had the same issue with our 1999 chevy astro van, would crank but would not start. It had been raining and windshield had a leak, after 2 days of no rain it started. Pulled codes and was the Security system in the ignition switch. Hope this helps.
first if you have a chiltons manual check the troubleshooting /diagnostic codes. Check fuel filter. check the codes for the computer. sounds like the computers sending back a kill engine order.
My 2000 Chevy express 2500 will not idle. When I come to a stop it dies. Starts back up a little flooded buy with RPM it smooths out but when I let off the gas it deis again??????
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