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Replaced alternator, took it back to be tested to be sure it was good. Pulled computer had it tested, is OK. Battery is only a year old. Charge light still coming on
WELL IF THE ALTERNATOR IS AFTER MARKET THIS COULD BE THE ISUSE YOU NEED TO KNOW WHAT IT DOING WHILE IN CAR NOT ON BENCH TEST IT COULD BE ALT PASSING BENCH TEST BUT AMP OR VOLTAGE MAY BE OFF A BIT CAN COUSE ALL TYP, ISUSE ANY WAY OEM IS BETTER LEES ISUSE HOPE THIS HELPS
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If you're sure the alternator is ok then there is another issue. I would definitely check all the fuses. I would need the make and year to further assist.
Before messing with the alternator, make ABSOLUTELY sure that the alternator is plugged in completely and fully, carefully. Sometimes, the medium voltage wire required to energize the windings likes to slip (on some 5/3 wire alternators), and with a 1-wire alternator, there's not really much to lose in checking tightness. If it still has issues, first get a multimeter, and check to make sure the battery, while off, is between 13.1-14.8V, and while running is more towards the 13.5-15.5V mark. This will indicate, if not charging, that it's not actively discharging.
check the earths on the engine and the shell, usually do this if the earth id not good. regulator is built into the alternator. no others needed. depending on the voltage stated on alternator should be 14v plus minus 2. battery should be 12.06 or 8 if brand new,
this does sound like a bad alternator,have the battery tested and check the connection at battery and positive feed cables form battery,next time all the lights come on have the charging system check dont remove alternator,also make sure the power cable to alternator is good,ive had a few of these they get hot and dont charge, have them tested and they tell me its good, put it back on car and customer is back again,i replace the alt and problem solved. hope this helps.ps check the alt fuse.
I had a simular problem, and I have worked on cars for 37 years.
In my case it was the ecm. I tested and tested, come to find out, at higher rpm's, (when car is being driven), the ecm caused the voltage regulator to stay in a high charge situation, which burnt up the alternator, changed it, and was fine.
I'm not saying it will work in your case, but you tried everything else.
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