My new TRW upper ball joints did not come with torque specs, my lower TRW ball joints came with specs, would the mounting bolts be the same torque as the lowers, and what about the main nut itself... 1996 jimmy 4x4.

Looking at the factory repair manual it shows the ball joints themselves are pressed in. If you purchased an aftermarket component that bolts in I would contact that company and ask what the torque specs are supposed to be. If you are referring to the ball joint STUD nut, they are torqued in two passes. The upper ball joint to 37 Lb Ft on first pass and then final pass torque 90-110 degrees. Lower ball joint 37 Lb Ft and 125-135 degrees. See attached screenshots from manual.

Torque settings Working on your car means you have to torque parts up when you fit them. Using correct torque levels is very important. Bolts will be tensioned when torquing up. Always use a torque wrench when installing parts on your car!
Too much tension means the bolt will be stressed too much and can ultimately break.
Not enough tension means the bolt can either run loose or it can move around. This will damage the bolt and it's brackets. This can ultimately also lead to catastrophic failures.
Only use 8.8 grade bolts in suspension applications. (wishbones, dampers etc.) 10.9 grade or even worse 12.9 grade bolts are hardened.

The hardening process will improve the maximum possible load on the bolt, but it will also make the bolt relatively brittle.

Within suspension parts, you would rather see bolts bend than sheer. 8.8 grade bolts have the tendacy to bend, any hardended bolts have the tendacy to sheer.
Below is a guideline to the torque levels used on Metric bolts.
Bolt grades are printed on the head of the bolt.
Bolt Size 8.8 10.9 12.9 A2-70 (Stainless) 6mm (M6) 9Nm 13Nm 14Nm 7Nm 8mm (M8) 23Nm 33Nm 40Nm 17Nm 10mm (M10) 45Nm 65Nm 70Nm 33Nm 12mm (M12) 80Nm 115Nm 125Nm 57Nm 14mm (M14) 125Nm 180Nm 195Nm 16mm (M16) 195Nm 280Nm 290Nm Note than when fitting bolts into Ally threads like rivnuts, manifolds and S1 uprights then the torque may need to be reduced.

Special note for Mr. Wiki - This is the thread size, not the head size.
Engine mount torque settings (K-Series) Nm RH engine mounting bracket to engine RH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting RH engine rubber mounting to chassis RH engine steady arm bolts LH engine mounting bracket to rubber mounting LH engine mounting bracket to engine Lower steady arm bracket to sump Lower steady arm bolts Use Permabond A130(A912E7033V) on the sump end bolt on the lower steady arm
Front suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper swivel joint to steering arm Lower swivel joint to plinth Steering arm to hub carrier Track rod end to steering arm Damper to lower wishbone Damper to top anchor bracket Damper anchor bracket to chassis Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Brake caliper to hub carrier Anti-roll bar rubber bush mounting clamps Anti-roll bar drop links Rear suspension torque settings (S2 K-Series) Nm Upper and lower wishbone pivot bolts Upper and lower swivel joint ball pins Upper swivel joint plinth to hub carrier Toe-link outer ball joint to hub carrier* Toe-link inner ball joint/wishbone to sub frame** Toe link ball joint lock nuts Damper to lower wishbone Damper to chassis Upper brake caliper to hub carrier (M10) Lower brake caliper to hub carrier (M8) Hub bearing unit to hub carrier Rear hub nut ,*Check batch number of ball joint is 43273 or later
,**Check batch number of ball joint is 43725 or later

Upper ball joint knuckle nut 60 ft lbs, lower ball joint knuckle nut 80 ft lbs....mounting nuts and bolts 17 ft lbs

Instructions

1. Remove the Upper Control Arm
   • 1Disconnect the ground battery cable using a wrench.
     
   • Loosen the front wheel lugs located on the same side of the upper ball joint you need to replace. Use a lug wrench.
     
   • Raise that same front wheel off the ground using a floor jack and support the vehicle on a jack stand.
   • Finish removing the tire.
     
   • Take the cotter pin off the upper ball joint stud holding the steering knuckle arm. Use a pair of nose pliers.
     
   • Remove the castle nut from the upper ball joint stud using a wrench or ratchet, ratchet extension and deep socket.
     
   • Loosen the two bolts securing the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Use a wrench to hold the bolt head as you loosen the retaining nut with a ratchet and socket.
     
   • Pull the control-arm ball joint off the steering knuckle arm. You may need to use a Pitman arm puller to free the ball joint.
     
   • Finish removing the two bolts from the back of the upper control arm and lift the upper control arm off the vehicle.
     
   Install the New Upper Control Arm
   • Set the new upper control arm in place and install the two bolts and retaining nuts to secure the back of the upper control arm to the mounting bracket. Remember the bolt heads should point inward toward the shock absorber with the retaining nuts on the outside of the mounting bracket. Do not tighten the bolts yet.
     
   • 11Insert the control-arm ball joint on the steering knuckle arm and start the castle nut with your hand over the ball joint stud. Do not tighten the nut yet.
     
   • Tighten the two bolts on the mounting bracket to 67-foot lbs. (91 Nm) using a torque wrench. Hold the bolts with a backup wrench as you tighten the retaining nuts with the torque wrench.
     
   • Tighten the ball-joint castle nut to 45-foot lbs. (61 Nm) using the torque wrench, ratchet extension and deep socket.
     
   • Install a new cotter pin through the joint-ball stud hole using the nose pliers. If necessary, tighten the castle nut just a few degrees to clear the stud hole through one of the castle nut slots.
     
   • Mount the tire on the wheel assembly and install the wheel lugs using the lug wrench.
     
   • Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
     

Lower ball joint specs:
Torque the ball joint-to-control arm nuts/bolts to 85 ft. lbs. (115 Nm). Torque the castellated nut to 108 ft. lbs. (147 Nm).

Upper ball joint specs:
Tighten the mounting bolts to 42 ft. lbs. (57 Nm) and the castellated nut to 72 ft. lbs. (96 Nm).

It depends on exactly which ball joint of the 3 per side your changing, but here are the details.

COMPRESSION LOWER ARM & LATERAL LOWER ARM ASSEMBLIES
Removal
1. Loosen compression lower arm ball joint nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and
knuckle. Remove nut, bolts and compression lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
2. Remove stay. Remove shock absorber lower mounting bolt. Loosen lateral lower arm ball
joint and knuckle nut. Using steering linkage puller, separate ball joint and knuckle. Remove nut, bolt and
lateral lower arm assembly. Remove dust cover.
Inspection
Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for compression lower arm ball joint is 4-22 INCH lbs. (0.5-2.5
N.m) for 2000 models. On 2001 models, breakaway torque is 22-54 INCH lbs. (2.5-6.1 N.m). Ensure
breakaway torque for compression lateral lower arm ball joint is 13 INCH lbs. (1.5 N.m). Check compression
lower arm, lateral lower arm, dust covers, and bushings for damage and wear.
Installation
To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW ball joint nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover with
multipurpose lubricant. Using installer, install dust cover. Check front wheel alignment.
UPPER ARM ASSEMBLY
Removal
Using steering linkage puller, loosen upper arm ball joint and knuckle nut. Remove self-locking nut. Remove upper arm and upper arm shaft assembly. Remove dust cover.
Inspection
Using preload socket, ensure breakaway torque for upper arm ball joint is 3-13 INCH lbs. (0.3-1.5 N.m).
Replace upper arm assembly when measured value exceeds specification. Check upper arm, dust cover, and
bushings for damage and wear.
Installation
1. To install, reverse removal procedure. Use NEW self-locking nuts. Lubricate lip and inside of dust cover
with multipurpose lubricant. Using Ball Joint Installer (MB990800), install dust cover.
2. Ensure upper arm shaft assembly is installed at indicated angle. Verify upper arm shaft
assembly installation. Check front wheel alignment.

Once you have the correct arm off and a replacement joint (if available, some are not serviceable and require the arm to be replaced) then you will need a press or a ball joint press to change the joint. Such as
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=38335

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46389

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=66958

or http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=46967

are you talking about the 4 little bolts that hold the joint onto the arm????? that sounds right if you are.

if your trw balljoint instruction paper doesnt say otherwise go with it.

I've replaced many ball joints, and never used a torque wrench. Just make them tight. If yours are the type with cotter pins, then you make it tight and slip in the cotter pin.