Change coil, sparkplugs, spark plug wires, icm and still no spark. take off spark plug wire put a good spark plug on it and ground it no spark with everything new.

step one is test spark at coil first not distributor.(last)
the coil has a HV lug use spark wires HV + plug to test that this is first. if fails the distrib is bad, VR pick up.
s15 jimmy or PU
which engine,
2.5L 151cid L4
2.8L 173cid V6
4.3L 262cid V6 <<<< I will guess this and answer.

try new distributor.
and must be timed,
set engine, to TDC 0-degrees, #1 piston on firing stroke
step1 is that. so new dizzy super easy to put back same. time.

the ICM runs the coil but the ICM has inputs, that must be working
1988 uses what to make ICM work, good pickup coil
The PCM (VCM) runs the 4 wires to the Distributor and ICM in it.
if PCM is bad, or inputs to it are bad, there will be no spark
there is no CKP sensor here ,just CMP and CMP is the pickup coil inside DIZZy and connect to ICM and ICM makes spark. (ign coil)
the PCM I think only does spark timing advance.(called EST)
but no sure me how the 4 wires on PCM to Dizzy work.
a new pickup coil might fix this , (it is CMP named now)
CMP is cam sensor and here it is via cam to main DIZZy shaft to pickup coil)

Trying to start the vehicle is there spark ? Your vehicle has plugs under center of valve cover .Pull the coil pack out , get plug wire cable set and use a spark tester . Check for spark . If plugs were no good you probably fried the ICM - ignition control module . Do you know what and where ICM is ? How to Test the Ignition Coils GM 2 4L Quad 4 The amount of dielectric grease has nothing to do with it .

http://www.engine-codes.com/p1351_chevrolet.html

If the coil is good and giving out spark and your ICM is good the cap can have a missing button which will not allow spark to go to the spark plugs through the plug wires do replace the distributor cap and rotor and spark plug wires

I ASSUME its a 2.2l VIN "4"? Better be SURE you put in the correct crank. Different years have different tone wheels for the Crank Sensor. If it ran before, it should run now. I think 2 wire connector is for power to coils Power to Pink wire comes from IGN fuse A. Pink is 12V, Black is ground, 6 wire plug is for ICM.(bolted to base of coil pack) cant bench test anything. Should be a code 42 if cranked for 5 seconds and no start if its a CKP issue.

The multimeter can read the resistance and if it is not open or shorted out, I'd say that your readings are in the normal range, comparing each resistance with each other + or - 10%.

I looked up the resistance readings on my online resource, but they did not list it specifically.
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I looked up the following on autozone.com:

There are 3 dual-tower ignition coils that are part of the ignition control module (ICM). The ICM contains coil driver circuits that command the coils to operate. The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) controls each dual-tower ignition coil by transmitting timing pulses on the ignition coil control circuit to the ICM for the proper coil to enable a spark event.

1. Inspect the spark plug wires for proper orientation.
2. With the ignition OFF, remove the fuel pump relay.
3. Crank the engine and test for a strong spark on each cylinder spark plug wire using a suitable spark plug tester. Ground the companion cylinder spark plug wire of each cylinder when it is tested.
   
   If a strong bright blue spark is present on all of the cylinders, remove and inspect all of the spark plugs for proper torque, proper gap, wear, damage, and fouling. Replace the spark plugs if necessary. If there is no spark on any of the cylinders, test the ignition voltage circuit of the Ignition Coil Module (ICM) for an open/high resistance or short to ground, or test the ground circuit of the ICM for an open/high resistance, or a faulty ICM. The wire circuit resistance should measure less than 3 ohms. If there is no spark on any of the cylinders, or spark is weak or intermittent, test the IC circuit for an open/high resistance, or a faulty ICM. The wire circuit resistance should measure less than 3 ohms. If spark is present on one or more of the cylinders, inspect and test the spark plug wires for arching, cuts, rubbing on other components, and proper resistance. If all tests are normal, then the system is operating correctly.
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Starting on the pasenger side. Remove the intake tube running from the air filter box to the throttle body and disconnect enough tubes to swing it out of the way. The sparkplugs are down below the small coils you see at the end of the sparkplug wires. With a 10mm socket remove bolt holding the coil, disconnect the plug at the top of the coil by squeezing it at the top and pulling straight off the coils.

Pull the coil straight up. there will be about a 6 inch tube that connects to the top of the spark plug when inserted. You will need a 5/8 sparkplug socket and about 2 feet of extensions to make it easy on yourself. Insert the spark plug socket and extensions down the hole you removed the coils with the tube from and remove and replace the sparkplug. Reinstall your coil onto the engine and move to the next one until you have replaced all the plugs on the passenger side.

Make sure you reconnect all the plugs to the coils, hoses to the intake tube and reinstall your intake tube. The drivers side is a little easier. Pop the spark plug wires from their plastic holders to free enough slack to be able to pull your sparkplug wires out of the block. For the plug closest to the front of the engine you will need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the ground wires to the intake manifold to be able to free enough space for removing the plug.

For the middle plug you will need to remove the 10mm bolt holding the bracket that is holding one of the throttle cables at the top of the intake manifold. For the rear plug just pop the flexible hose that runs behind the black metal bracket straight up out of its clip and push it out of the way along with any other hoses that run through this area. Pull the spark plug wire from its place by pulling straight up just like with the coils. there will also be about a 6 inch tube running down to the spark plug at the bottom of these plugs.

Remove and replace the plugs same as before. make sure you reconnect all your hoses and wires to their previous locations. Doublecheck to make sure you reconnect all the ground wires/ brackets. Also you will need to use " twin ground electrode plugs" (see sticker on front of your plastic timing belt cover? to the right of the radiator hose).

Im guessing w/distributor? If not you are most likely to have fuse blown on the fuse block causing ICM not to fire signal to charge the coil

COIL PACK IS YOUR PROBLEM HERE

overheating could be caused by a stuck thermostat or a clogged radiator not firing on #1 plug could be a fouled plug or bad wire or it may be grounding on the block and your coiil may not have been put in at the right mark