Fuel gauge stuck behind peg at FULL mark

One thing you can try is to get one of those magnetic pick up tools at a parts store.......prefferably one with a large magnet...and put a cloth around the end of it so you dont scratch the plastic on you gauges and try to pull it back to where it belongs,i have done this a few times with good results,hope this helps

I had the same thing happen. I removed the instrument panel and took it apart (loosened the screws) just enough for me to separate the peg from the needle so that it flipped by itself to its resting condition. then I put it all back together and is working fine now. took a little bit longer but worth it.

Happened to me. Very, very easy fix. Caused by minute electrical shorts when hooking up battery (that sizzle noise you might get when you first press the cable to the battery by hand before tightening it). Solution? Avoid that: instantly press the cable against the battery HARD, and then keep pressure on while fastening. Jiggling it will cause "micro-shorts" and if you had someone sitting in the car at the time, they will tell you the gauges are going nuts bouncing around. Anyway, once it's happened, here's the solution: sitting in the car, just above your knees is a dash panel (the one with the little tip out cargo cubby built into it). You need to "unsnap" this. There is a seam along the top of it (about level with the steering column). Put a bladed screwdriver behind it and pry by twisting the screwdriver. It might be tight, but don't worry, it will "unsnap". Do this on both sides of the steering wheel until it tilts down and rests on your knees. Have the door OPEN at this time or it will interfere, and DON'T shut the door until after you have re-attached this panel. The panel will "hang" if you get out. That's fine. Don't undo the lower snaps. Now, above the instrument cluster on the black plastic are two fasteners (philips head screws). Remove. Tilt steering all the way down. Hook your fingers in the black fascia panel surrounding the instrument cluster below the speedometer and tachometer (the top of the fascia is no longer fastened now). Pull toward you. There are two "snaps" holding the bottom of that fascia. Pull until they release. Once the fascia is loose, move it out a bit, and you will see there is a trip/ODO reset switch "built in" to the fascia molding. Reach behind the molding and unplug the wire from the switch (or you can remove the switch from the fascia by gently prying the release tabs on either side of the switch and leave the switch plugged into the wire harness). I recommend the latter, because these switches are famous for losing their illumination (they will continue working they just won't light up anymore) if you unplug the wire harness from them. once the switch is unplugged or free from the fascia molding but still plugged in, you can remove the fascia molding from the dash area. It's a bit tight, so put your pull the tilt lever and put your chin on top of the steering wheel and you will get an extra inch or so of tilt. While keeping your chin on the wheel at maximum down-tilt, remove the black fascia. Now, there are 4 fasteners that hold the instrument cluster in. Remove them. Unplug the instrument cluster, and remove it from the car. The trick is this: the clear face of the instrument cluster comes off. It's straighforward, but the problem is there's lots of tabs around the edge, so you have to have a bunch of shims. If you have a magentic bits screwdriver set, take all of the bladed ones out of the set, and on either the top or bottom of the clear face on the cluster, put them in the tabs to place those tabs in the "release" position. It helps if you have lots of these sorts of shims, and/or an extra set of hands to assist. Do this in the house or at a workbench, not in the car. Once the face if separated, the needles are exposed. Gently lift the fuel needle back over to the proper side of the peg. Snap the clear face back on the instrument cluster. Install everything by reversing the above directions. Note: that big panel with the cubby built in is a little bit tricky to refasten. Watch for the snaps to start going into the "snapholes" on the dash before pushing it in until it snaps into place. Viola. pain the behind, but easy. Avoid this in future by being more careful with the battery cables as indicated above. PS: don't worry that the fuel needle seems limp and floppy once you lift it back over the peg. Until it gets power again, it will be. Be gentle.

I just tried this experiment and it worked fine. The mechanic wanted to charge us $120 to check and he gave us several things that can be wrong and it could add up to $420 more dollars.

Your fuel guage was toasted in aa attemp to jump your battery in the dark I believe that the terminals were crossed and that is when your guage was hit. Thanks, Dana