Crank engine with distributor cap
removed, is it turning?
(That is if it has a distributor cap, some
newer cars don’t have one)is it turning?
Broken timing belt or chain?
Are you getting power to the + positive side
of the coil (small wires) with key on ? Hint; I use a needle pushed into the back of the plug so as not to damage the wiring.
If you have power then wiring from the ignition
switch is OK. It usually is.
Hook your test light to the - negative side of
the coil (one end on the - terminal and the other end on a ground). You should
have power on the - side of the coil with the key on and engine off.
Crank the engine while watching the
test light. Get a flashing signal at the test light when cranking?
If so and you have no spark the coil
is likely dead. (don’t rely merely on
resistance tests for a coil, a weak coil can test ok for resistance but still
give no spark. It happens but is
unusual. I learned this the hard way!)
No flashing signal?
Check continuity in all primary
circuit wiring for opens.
If they are good,
It is time to check the pulse
generator in the distributor. (That is if it has a distributor cap, some newer
cars don’t have one, if it doesn’t then the ECM or computer sends signal via
the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor)
With the engine in non-running
condition connect your A/C voltmeter to the pair of wires at the pulse
generator and crank the engine. You are looking for an A/C signal that makes
4-6 volts of A/C. Got this? If so the ignition module is dead or has a bad
ground. If not (more likely) you have a dead pulse generator in the
distributor.
If you have three wires in the distributor signal wire you have a Hall effect
sensor. I forget how to test that one. (Chrysler stuff)
If this part of the primary ignition
tests ok then check wiring to ECM pinouts for opens. Wiring tests ok. ECM as last resort.
Hope this helps...........
Remove control module and have it tested.i know napa tests.may be bad.
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