The water is leaking from the Radiator to underneath the bottom cover of the vehicle and not inside the car. Is the air condition connection leaking or Is the water bump at fault?

Can you physically see it leaking underneath the vehicle? Or is it condensation dripping out from your air conditioning? If you just smell it you may have a blown head gasket. How often are you adding fluid to the reservoir?

You need to find the source of the leak, Follow the coolant residue to the leak. It can be tricky to find with all the plastic covers on vehicles now, You may have to remove to some covers to see the leak.

It's under the timing cover on the front of the engine. I have pasted autozone.com instructions to replace the water pump below.

3.0L & 3.5L Engines

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. If necessary, properly release the fuel pressure.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   
   Negative battery cable
   

CAUTION Wait at least 90 seconds after the negative battery cable is disconnected to prevent possible deployment of the air bag.

Upper radiator shroud Accessory belts Air conditioning compressor tensioner pulley, if equipped Cooling fan and clutch assembly and the water pump pulley Thermostat and housing on 3.0L, 3.5L engines Water outlet, gasket and houses Radiator hoses from the water pump Crankshaft pulley(s) Timing belt covers. If the same timing belt will be reused, mark the direction of the timing belt's rotation, for installation in the same direction. Be sure the engine is positioned so the No. 1 cylinder is at the TDC of its compression stroke and the sprockets timing marks are aligned with the engine's timing mark indicators. Timing belt Water pump bolts are different lengths, note their positions before removing. Water pump from the block Water pipe connection and O-ring

To install:

1. Clean and dry the mating surfaces of the block and water pump
2. Install or connect the following:
   
   New O-ring on the water pipe connection, wet the new O-ring with water to aid in installation Water pump, with a new gasket, Torque the bolts to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) on 3.0L and 3.5L engines Alternator bracket bolt to 17 ft. lbs. (23 Nm) Timing belt(s) and covers Crankshaft pulley(s) Thermostat and housing on 3.0L, 3.5L engines. Torque the bolts to 12-14 ft. lbs. (17-20 Nm). Radiator hose to the water pump Water outlet, new gasket and houses. Torque the bolts to 12-14 ft. lbs. (17-20 Nm). Water pump pulley Cooling fan and clutch assembly Air conditioning compressor tensioner pulley, if equipped Accessory belts Upper radiator shroud Thermostat and housing on 3.0L, 3.5L engines Negative battery cable
   
3. Refill the radiator with coolant. This cooling system has a self-bleeding thermostat, so system bleeding is not required.
4. Run the vehicle until the thermostat opens and fill the overflow tank. Check for leaks.
5. Once the vehicle has cooled, recheck the coolant level.

Is what the liquid plain water or coolant (water mixed with antifreeze). touch and smell the liquid, no smell = water, antifreeze smell and oily feel = coolant.
If plain water, could be Air Condition condensation dripping from condensation drain which is normal. (this drain is usually located near the center of the vehicle).
If coolant, could be leak(s) from: radiator, radiator hose, heater hose, water pump, engine freeze plug. A coolant system pressure test should show what is leaking.

Typically, when you have water leaking from underneath your glove box, that means that your heater core is leaking. Your heater core is basically a small radiator located inside your car, just behind your glove box, thjat a fan blows through for the purpose of warming the interior of your car and defrosting the inside of your windshield. This core is fed water via your engines water pump, from your engine where the water is heated, through the heater core and back through the radiator located under the hood of your car and through the engine once again, in a continual cycle. What happens after time, the heater core is of a much thinner construction than your radiator and will corrode through in a much lesser time. The other things which commonly occurs in the heater cores today, is that when your car overheats or blows a head gasket, it will allow the exhaust gas from your engine into your water system and create a tremendous amount of pressure. The heater core is not designed to deal with this extra pressure and typical blows out and leaks water onto the floor board of the passenger side of the vehicle. Heater cores are not all that expensive a part, but to replace it, can be quite difficult on some make and model cars. This information applies to most all make and model cars both previously and currently produced.

One thing to check is for coolant getting into the oil, which would indicate head gasket failure. Check oil dipstick and/or underneath of oil cap for a frothy brown/tan look to it. If so, do not drive the car.

Also check coolant reservoir for a leak. Evaporation is suspect, but maybe not to the point you are describing. Check coolant reservoir cap, as well as radiator cap.

THE AC EVAPORATOR CORE WATER CONDENSAION DRAIN IS PLUGGED, THE DRAIN IS AT THE BASE OF THE ENGINE FIREWALL ON THE PASSENGER SIDE OF ENGINE COMPARTMENT, U WILL NEED TO GET UNDER THE VAN TO SEE IT, WILL BE ABOUT 1/2 INCH DIAMETER TUBE.

AC drain hose stopped up somewhere, probably under the vehicle. Sorry I don't know where it comes out of the firewall or fender.

Coolant leaks can occur anywhere in the cooling system. Nine out of ten times, coolant leaks are easy to find because the coolant can be seen dripping, spraying, seeping or bubbling from the leaky component. So open the hood and visually inspect the engine and cooling system for any sign of liquid leaking from the engine, radiator or hoses. The color of the coolant may be green, orange or yellow depending on the type of antifreeze in the system. The most common places where coolant may be leaking are:Water pump. A bead shaft seal will allow coolant to dribble out of the vent hole just under the water pump pulley shaft. If the water pump is a two-piece unit with a backing plate, the gasket between the housing and back cover may be leaking. The gasket or o-ring that seals the pump to the engine front cover on cover-mounted water pumps can also leak coolant. Look for stains, discoloration or liquid coolant on the outside of the water pump or engine.Radiator. Radiators can develop leaks around upper or loser hose connections as a result of vibration. The seams where the core is mated to the end tanks is another place where leaks frequently develop, as is the area where the cooling tubes in the core are connected or soldered to the core headers. The core itself is also vulnerable to stone damage. But a major factor in many radiator leaks is internal corrosion that eats away from the inside out. That's why regular coolant flushes and replacing the antifreeze is so important.
oses. Cracks, pinholes or splits in a radiator hose or heater hose will leak coolant. A hose leak will usually send a stream of hot coolant spraying out of the hose. A corroded hose connection or a loose or damaged hose clamp may also allow coolant to leak from the end of a hose. Sometimes the leak may only occur once the hose gets hot and the pinhole or crack opens up. Freeze plugs (casting plugs or expansion plugs in the sides of the engine block and/or cylinder head). The flat steel plugs corroded from the inside out, and eventually eat through allowing coolant to leak from the engine. The plugs may be hard to see because they are behind the exhaust manifold, engine mount or other engine accessories. On V6 and V8 blocks, the plugs are most easily inspected from underneath the vehicle.
Heater Core. The heater core is located inside the heating ventilation and air conditioning (HVAC) unit under the dash. It is out of sight so you can�t see a leak directly. But if the heater core is leaking (or a hose connection to the heater core is leaking), coolant will be seeping out of the bottom of the HVAC unit and dripping on the carpet. Look for stains or wet spots on the bottom of the plastic HVAC case, or on the passenger side floor.
Intake Manifold gasket. The gasket that seals the intake manifold to the cylinder heads may leak and allow coolant to enter the intake port, crankcase or dribble down the outside of the engine. Some engines such as General Motors 3.1L and 3.4L V6 engines as well as 4.3L, 5.0L and 5.7L V8s are notorious for leaky intake manifold gaskets. The intake manifold gaskets on these engines are plastic and often fail at 30,000 to 80,000 miles. Other troublesome applications include the intake manifold gaskets on Buick 3800 V6 and Ford 4.0L V6 engines.
INTERNAL COOLANT LEAKS
There are the worst kind of coolant leaks for two reasons. One is that they are impossible to see because they are hidden inside the engine. The other is that internal coolant leaks can be very expensive to repair.


visit for more info:

http://www.aa1car.com/library/coolant_leaks.htm