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I am not a mazda guy but it sounds like the pressure plate is bad. Have you check the clutch linkage to be sure something did not slip or break. If so I would be looking at the clutch pressure plate.
the gear grinding noise is because the clutch plate is not fully disengaging and the input shaft is still driving. If you did not use the same length of push rod then the slave cylinder is not moving enough to disengage the clutch. Check it out that with the pedal on the floor the piston in the slave cylinder should be almost to the edge of the slave cylinder . That is where It should be to be working properly
Your pedal height may be adjustable by a stopper bolt at top of pedal. You would have to check the specification for your car. Most important that the pedal has about a half inch free travel before clutch begins to engage. You need that free play to ensure the release bearing (the throw-out bearing) is not touching the fingers on the pressure plate when not engaged. If it always is touching, it will be rolling around constantly and will go out prematurely. Your new clutch will allow gear engagement sooner as the clutch pedal is released. I mean gears will engage just as pedal is lifting off from floor. You should notice that difference-the old clutch would have taken longer pedal travel from floor before releasing.
If the clutch is hydraulic operated, you need to bleed the clutch at the slave cylinder, down on the transmission housing. Bleed it just like you bleed brakes of air in the line-open bleeder valve, someone pushes clutch pedal slowly to floor, close valve, and repeat until fluid comes out valve in a steady stream. Make sure the clutch reservoir is full before starting. It uses regular brake fluid. If not hydraulic, it would be cable operated. Adjust the cable until clutch pedal is right.
Did you bleed the slave cylinder? Also, check pedal free play (about 1/2 inch) and pedal height (not sure on your Rav, you'll have to check with Toyota).
Only first gear, or difficulty going into all gears?
once you have bled out all the air ,if the pedal still engages right down then suspect the fingers on the release plate are worn.Never replace a part of the clutch, allways change all 3 components,it save all the hastle of taking it to bits again and again.
Check the fluid level in the reservoir below the brake booster,it's the clutch slave cylinder reservoir and it need to be full of d.o.t. 3 brake fluid.
I will bet it grinds when you try to engage first or reverse. When this happened on my car, I adjusted the clutch and it improved. You need about a half inch of free play when you first touch the pedal with your foot. If you have a slave cylinder, (hydraulic clutch). You may need to bleed the system. With air in the system, you can't get enough clutch to fully disengage the trans from the motor.(Clutch and pressure plate) It's like you only pushed down half way on the pedal. If it's not hydraulic, it should be adjusted with wrenches. If clutch is fine, It could be a loose shift linkage. It would seem extra sloppy when moving shifter, It would just not go in gear, with out the grinding.Hope this helps. lbreen
Clutch disingages only when pedal is pushed to the floor
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