I feel a lot of noise at the driver side and some on the passenger side when I drive over bumps, would this be the struts? 1- what is the life cycle of the struts? 2- what is the life time for the timing belt? 3- also I have changed the belts, and I still here a squealing when I start my car in the morning, what this could be? My car is Dodge Neon 2003

High probability that it is the strut mounts, they don't have a very high life cycle. Very difficult to test while mounted.Creaking might just be a dry suspension, but the bumping noise definitely good indication of those strut mountings. You could check if fastening them more on the chassis makes any difference. Quick and accurate diagnosis if you can drop by suspension people.

Could be the upper strut mount, or one of the control arm bushings.

the upper strut mount you cant ck thats where your popping noise is. or the lower control arm bushings

The only clicking sounds I'm aware of come from the top of the strut mount bearings that are worn out on older vehicles that tend to have over like 80,000 miles on them during certain turning or bumps. I don't know of that helps you or not.

check the drop links they don't like bumps. fitted to the anti roll bar and the strut ( suspension strut ) change both side at same time. to check it is these grab it and pull about if it feels like its moving easy then replace. should be stiff and no movement when pulling. these make a clunking sound when they go.

Likely this is a sign of a worn shock/strut. Repalcing the shock/struts will improve the ride quality as well. Do have the suspension inspected for safety. A lot of places will do this for free.

Check to see if your strut spring is loose. If there is a lot of rust in the area, check to see that none of the spot welds came free and he strut came loose. It may be a rear shock on that car and not a strut, Either way. Check to make sure nothing is missing a bolt or moves when pushed or pulled. You don't want to find out by losing control on the expressway.

See if you can bounce car and replicate the noise. If you can, you should be able to find it, and put your hand on it. Stabilizer bushing are a place to look, both at the lower a arm and on the frame. If you narrow it down to the strut, it will need to be replaced. The front trans mount also goes bad, try putting it in drive with your foot on the brake and give it some gas and see if the engine moves an excessive amount.

Ford has a technical service bulletin out on this vehicle that may help solve your problem. The number is 04-6-1.
Here is the info:

ISSUE: Some 2000-2004 Focus vehicles may exhibit a front end creaking, crunching, grinding and/or rattling noise from the front suspension while driving at slow speeds, over bumps, and/or while turning.
ACTION: Noise, vibration, harness (NVH) conditions may originate from many areas. A thorough inspection of the front suspension is necessary to determine the cause. To service, refer to the following Service Procedure and inspect the suggested areas first.
SERVICE PROCEDURE

1. Inspect front strut fasteners and confirm that they are tightened to the correct torque.
   1. Front strut to front knuckle, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 90 N-m (67 lb-ft).
   2. Front strut mount to body, (three (3) driver / three (3) passenger), 30 N-m (22 lb-ft).
   3. Front strut rod to strut mount, (one (1) driver / one (1) passenger), 66 N-m (49 lb-ft). NOTE: MEASUREMENT OF TORQUE MUST BE DONE IN THE TIGHTENING DIRECTION. NOTE: IN ORDER TO APPLY THE PROPER TORQUE TO THE FRONT STRUT ROD TO STRUT MOUNT FASTENER, A HEX KEY WILL BE REQUIRED TO HOLD THE STRUT ROD IN PLACE WHILE TIGHTENING THE NUT.
      
2. Inspect for loose stabilizer bar end links.
   1. Firmly grasp the links and shake them - both along the direction of the link and transverse to the link orientation in the inboard/outboard vehicle direction. If looseness is felt continue on to Step 2b, if no looseness is felt continue on to Step 3.
   2. Inspect the link end joints. If they do not appear severely corroded, torque the nuts (use anti-rotation feature to prevent ball joint damage) to 50 N-m (36 lb-ft), and repeat Step 2a. If links still feel loose after tightening or if the joint shows evidence of severe corrosion, replace the link (YS4Z-5K484-AA).
3. Inspect for the top spring sleeve coming out of position. This may cause a squeaking noise between the sleeve and indent on the ridge of the upper spring seat, or it may cause a clicking noise between the spring and upper spring seat if the sleeve is completely out of position. If the sleeve is out of position continue on to Step 3a, if the sleeve is positioned properly continue on to Step 4.
   1. Install a new rubber sleeve (1S4Z-8484-AA). Install the new rubber sleeve starting from the top of the spring coil where it contacts the spring plate.
4. If the noise is a clicking or popping from the front strut, install a service spring end cap (4S4Z-5L302-AA) on to the top spring tip. Reassemble and reinstall strut per the Workshop Manual Section 204-01.

It could possibly be a shock or strut bracket.