2001 Chevy Prizm, only 35,000 miles - radiator hoses; drive belt

Radiator hoses that are expanded past the hose clip are about to burst and must be replaced . The rubber developes a slippery surface and the pressure exerted by the hose clamp is insufficient to hold the hose on. The hose rubber itself has little resistance to shape change so as the pressure increases the hose just slides off out under the clip. Place new hoses on dry clean surfaces (no rubber grease)---use new clamps ( preferably clips that have a hex head. as well as a screw driver slot or star as the socket will get the clips a lot tighter than a screw driver) The bottom hose will be the last to go as it is under suction when driving and only comes under pressure when stopped and the pressure equalises in the cooling system. Replace any hose that is bigger then the clamps as they are waiting for the chance to catch you out.

looks like a blown head gasket.remove the belt ,open radiator cap. and run engine. look for bubble in coolant. if so head gasket is defect

Um, decide how much the car is worth and whether it's worth putting the money in it to fix it.

NOTE: When removing water pump assembly, be careful not to get coolant on timing belt unless you intend to replace it. (if it has more than 60.000 miles. it probably SHOULD be replaced, however, you must do it correctly or severe engine damage will occur.)
Drain coolant from drain plugs on both sides of cylinder block and radiator.
Remove radiator hoses (upper and lower) and fan shroud.
Remove drive belts.
Remove water pump pulley.
Remove crankshaft pulley and front (upper and lower) belt cover.
Remove water pump

YOU NEED TO ADD MORE COOLANT IN THE OVER FLOW JUG. YOUR OVER FLOW JUG IS WHERE YOU POUR COOLANT TO FILL UP RADIATOR. KEEP POURING COOLANT DOWN THE OVER FLOW JUG UNTIL COOLANT STOP DROPPING AND STAY AT THE FULL COLD MARK.KEEP EYE ON OVER FLOW JUG DONT LET RUN DRY BECAUSE AIR WILL BE PULLED IN THE COOLANT SYSTEM CAUSE A LOT OF ENGINE OVER HEATING PROBLEMS.

It could be due to age. Split hoses aren't uncommon.
However, it could be due to either a radiator blockage or a cylinder head problem - which is allowing exhaust gases to find their way into the cooling system via a leaking head gasket. When this happens the cooling system becomes pressurised by the exhaust gases.

To check if your radiator is blocked, run the engine until it is hot. The coolant goes into the radiator via the top hose and into the engine through the bottom hose.

Carefully feel the top and bottom hose. If the bottom hose feels much cooler than the top hose, then that indicates a radiator blockage. If the bottom hose feels 'flat' and 'squashed' that is another indicator - though it also can point to head gasket problems.

To check if there are head gasket problems, first check the oil on the dipstick. If it is a 'creamy sludge' then that indicates coolant has found its way into the lubricating system via a leaking head gasket.

Also remove the cap from the raditor expansion tank (where you fill it with coolant/water). Is there any sign of oil/sludge in the expansion tank? Another sign of head gasket problems.

With a COLD engine, remove the cap from the radiator expansion tank and then fire the engine up. Watch the coolant as the engine ticks over ... at first bubbles will appear as air in the coolant escapes. The bubbles should stop after a few moments as the engine warms. If the bubbles continue -or there is 'violent bubbling' that's teling you there is a head gasket problem.

I presume that your car hasn't been overheating or 'running rough' at times, as you haven't mentioned that. Overheating and 'running rough' can also be symptoms of head gasket problems.

All being well .. no radiator blockage or apparent head gasket problems, it is more than likely that the hose burst due to age/mileage.

4 years? you really need to find a mechanic that knows what hes doing. if you have replaced the canister and purge solenoid valve (muliple sensors? you realy need to be specific on what has or has not been replaced ) most times the hoses are not installed properly on the purge solenoid, or leak. the hose with the green cap/test port should be closest to the electrical connector.

$700

timing belt
idler pulley
water pump
timing belt tensioner
valve cam gasket
coolant flush
spark plug
oil change
pcv valve
tranny oil change
differential fluid cahnge
drive belt
upper/lower radiator hose
brake system flush
air filter

good luck,i hope this help pls dont forget to rate me thanks

remove coolant.remove thermostat remove bottom radiator hose to water pump.put a empty container under the radiator.take a water hose put it where thermostat goes flush out the rust in block.watch the water as it come out the water pump .if stream water is small keep flushing until you get a study sream of clear water. also flush out radiator. lower water pressure dont flush radiator it with high water pressure you could burst it. make clean the over flow jug .make sure it not stopped up.put in a new thermostat and radiator pressure cap. fill radiator with half antifreeze and half water.bleed the coolant system.

If the water pump isn't leaking, It's doubtful that it's the culprit.

Most likely the thermostat is stuck open, or stuck closed.

Given the age of the truck, and the higher operating temperatures of a diesel (i have a Dodge with a Cummins - so I'm feeling your pain on the fuel prices too), I would do a complete cooling system flush, new thermostat, and check for the upper and lower radiator hoses for signs of "bulging" where they meet the engine and the radiator. If they haven't been changed in a while, this is the time to do it, before they burst when you're in the middle of no where.