The fan control in the dashboard no longer turns the fan on at all. For a while, it would work intermittently, but now it's just dead. what is the best place to start troubleshooting this? thanks!

engine runs perfect?
head lights full power bright>? 2 questions, and shows battery is at 12.6vdc rested and 13.3 to 15vdc running, (is it>?_)
ill pretend yes......
blown fuse. what else could cause so many things, to lose DC power.
>?
a fuse can be good, bad or intermittent , even corroded,
a tech would scratch head and pick the easiest fault to fix.
my guess, is
dashboard doesnt work means the guages , and idiot lamps are dead but the park lamps there (dimmable) do work.
so what fuse is that.? i say to self.....
I open the FSM. and look at the power cluster feed.
what do i see.?
posted over 100 times here.
http://www.jeep4x4center.com/knowledge-base/index.htm?utm_source=cj#service

i look in instruments page. (aka. cluster)
tells you how it works
then i jump wiring page 8w-40-2
i see what, Fuse 10. is it good? and fuse 17.
fuse 10 is key on,, and fuse 17, is hot full time.

thats it, if the cluster is dead, only fuses can kill it 100% dead
or it losts its main ground, which is unlikely but voltmeter proves
in 1min flat. (G201)


i picked right, the cluster dead, is the most simple
if Headlights are dead, its most simple (not in Canada with DRL)

bingo?

the switch is a little module on passenger side of truck up under dash.....it controls speeds...not very expensive but hard to get at unless your tiny , because you almost have to be turned upside down to see it....I replaced mine in about 15 mins ...It took longer to find it

fuse bad.
you mean the fan is dead, no fan, no heat , no A/C.
its dead fan and most die only low speeds and not high.
is your fan dead on HIGH> (big hint here)
the window s on many suzuki have a circuit breaker hidden in dash.
the fan if failed only on low speed,s is a bad fan resistor block hidden
in the fan case. when they fail , hitting the dash causes the broke
wire wound resistors to touch for second and can weld bad for a while but will fail soon.
you car read all about this , for $4
https://suzukipitstopplus.com/category/3-suzuki-service-manuals.aspx

if the fan slowly comes up to speed check the connections on the resister they over heat and melt then check the fan motor itself

It does sound like a bad switch --- possibly arcing and overheating -- or it could be dirty / corroded contacts on the switch or in the wiring harness connector.

The switch should come out fairly easily after getting access to the back of it -- it probably has tabs on it which when pressed in will allow the switch to come out the front.

Charlie


P.S. The blower motor resistor would not cause an overheating switch -- a bad resistor would at worst allow maximum current to go through the switch -- the switch is designed to run the blower at full speed (maximum current) w/o overheating...

I.M NOT AN EXPERT BUT I THINK YOU MIGHT HAVE A PROB WITH THE HEATER BLOWER (BEHIND THE GLOVE BOX UNDER THE DASHBOARD) , THE BLOWER FAN MIGHT BE DEAD,,, MAYBE BECAUSE OF THE ¬BRUSHES¬ OR MAYBE THE SMALL ENGINE IS BURNED. IF ANY FRIENDS CAN HELP YOU TRY AN ¬OUTPUT TEST VAGCOM¬ THE COSTS MAXIMUM 150$ OR 130£. GOOD LUCK!!!

You're accumulating problems over time.They're not related.

The heat/air blower fan problem is a bad blower (variable) resistor n the blower fan control.

The power windows are either fuses blown or regulator motors dead - check your power accessory fuses and go from there to check the regulator motors - try junk yard(s) before paying for as new window regulator.

The intermittent feature of the wipers - check/replace the switch that controls this feature (the most likely cause).

THe problem with ALL your dashboard electrical items failing at once, then coming back to life after a restart is a 12V breaker (not a fuse) in your fuse panel - it looks like a relay, but your maintenance manual (Haynes Manuals - $20 everywhere) will identify it as a breaker - its sticking in the "off" state and needs to be replaced, OR I SUSPECT THAT: moisture gets into the car somewhere and causes the breaker to TRIP to prevent the resultant short from burning up your mini-van in a brightly-lit vehicle fire, and when you turn the van on, the breaker is tripped - you restart the vehicle,(which turns out to be the proper procedure to reset a 12V breaker), and the breaker resets, and you drive off with working dashboard controls.

Assuming that the dealer is correct and isolated the problem down to the blow motor...
it IS possible for the motor to work intermittently due to heat buildup. Malfunctions due to heat will call the motor to run fine for a bit, and then quit when the motor reaches a high enough temperature to cause a malfunction. It would then quit working until it cooled back down, and repeat the process.

Whether is it just dead, or it is intermittently dead, for all intensive purposes, the motor is no longer usable and needs to be replaced with a new unit.

One common problem is with intrument cluster solder joints where the cable connector attaches to the circuit board. Solder joints fracture. Resolder. Use Hanes manual to get dashboard apart.

Indication is instrument panel goes dead and car sometimes will not start.

Other possibilites are loose connectors or poor connections in cable harnesses.

SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A PROBLEM WITH THE SPEED RESISTOR. VERY COMMON PROBLEM ON EUROPEAN VARS. NORMALLY THIS RESSISTOR IS BEHINF GLOVE BOX IN THE HEATER/A-C BOX..