My 1994 Dodge Ram 1500 4X4 5.2 L quit locking the front axle. I had this problem 12 months ago and I replaced the actuator, it worked fine from there on out. Now it quit again. I checked the vacuum lines and they have suction and switch properly, I don't have a gauge to check how much, how much pressure should I feel? If I take it off and hook it up the fork moves correctly so I guess it doesn't have enough power to lock the axle?
So questions is?
Pressure or actuator?
There is no pressure /vacuum required to lock the axle
the action is the actuator moves a dog clutch that positively engages the gears
so is the problem else where
maybe broken axle , wheel locks are not engaging
SOURCE: 1990 GMC Sierra 4x4 1500
the connections near the front axle that activate the motor to engage the system aren't melted? That's a comon problem for that body style. If there good, sounds like it could be that motor itself. To figure out if it's you motor or transfercase, jack up the rear end, have a friend inside shift into 4 wheel drive, or try to, and put it in gear and apply some gas. If the front driveshaft is turning then it's something with the front end. If not, farther back in the system.
SOURCE: can not remove rear axle on chevy avalanche 4x4 1500.
you will need to take off the differential cover (drain and change diff oil at this time)
rotate the axle so that you can get at the cross pin and remove it by undoing a small bolt that holds it in place. it should slide out with ease, but i have had them stick, take care not to let the cross pin get lodged where it is difficult to extract
a single C-clip is holding each axle inside the differential housing
you will need to push in from the outer end of the axle, while simultaneously manipulating the C-clip off of the inner axle, repeat this same process on the other side
i will put some of pics up in a minute
SOURCE: remove front axle from differential on 2003 dodge ram
That works fine on a relatively new vehicle but one that has run in salt etc you'll save a lot of time if you remove the steering knuckle completey by separating lower ball joint and outer tie rod end ball joint and bring the whole steering knuckle to a bench to separate the hub/bearing. Soak everything with penetrant, loosen the bolts a few turns and try hitting right on the bolt heads. I also made a very sharp wedge from a chisel and rammed it hard on the other side to seoarate the hub. It will finally come apart then you'll see all the **** that was binding it due to an alumininum knuckle re-acting with a steel hub. Clean the hole and grease everything and fit new bearings
SOURCE: 4/04 ford f150 4x4 front axle actuator won' t stay disengaged
Even though you checked the vacuum lines and found no leaks it does not mean there isn't a problem. The check valve in the line closest to the firewall actuator is probably your problem. Had the same issue replaced this line and solved it. The check valves in the vacuum lines are your best next guess.
603 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×