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Posted on Oct 29, 2009

How to install 2.5 lift 1999 4runner - 1999 Toyota 4Runner

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  • Posted on Nov 08, 2009
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Here is a solution to the a 4th generation 4runner. http://www.sonoransteel.com/Daystar_4thGen_4Runner.pdf

I know your truck is 3rd generation, I have a 98 4runner, but if you buy a 2.5" lift kit it will probably be spacers as is shown on the daystar instructions. I think most kits that are applicable to your truck will have instructions that go with them. Hope this helps

  • Anonymous Nov 08, 2009

    Here is another link to sonoran steel that shows lift kit installation pdf:http://www.sonoransteel.com/guide.pdf

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Want to know how to install body lift on a 2003 jeep wrangler sport

The body lift is included to ensure the larger tires can cycle through the full range of suspension movements without touching anything. The nice thing is that lifting a Jeep Wrangler (TJ) is easily done in stages:
- A 1 inch body lift will allow you to easily clear a slightly larger tire than stock, very inexpensively
- A 2 inch suspension lift would allow another tire-size upgrade, and increase ground clearance as dollars allow

In the end, a 1" body lift, combined with a 2" or 3" suspension lift will allow you to fit a 33" tire under these Jeeps. This not only increases your actual ground clearnace under the axle by almost 3 inches, but those new springs will flex a lot better than the old ones, so your Jeep will be much more capable offroad.

Combine this simple lifting strategy with aggressive fender trimming, and you could stuff 35" tires under that rig of yours - that would be good for almost 4 inches of extra clearance (over stock) under the axles - but you'd want to look at upgrading those axles if you're going with a tire over 33".

Other Lift Considerations... running out and slapping on some pucks under your body tub might sound easy, but there is a bunch to consider before the wrenches start flying:

* Get replacement bolts ready - the old rusty ones will be tough to get out and you'll want new ones to install
* Make sure you use actual body lift components - some areas will not allow a Jeep equipped with hockey pucks as body mounts to pass inspections - don't laugh, it happenes every day
* Be ready to lengthen wires and control linkages as needed - going up 1 inch shouldn't pose a problem, any higher might. You'll need to fabricate longer shifter and t-case handles, and watch for any other items which need lengthening.
* DO NOT run a body lift any higher than 3 inches - even that's a bit much. All you are doing it raising the centre of gravity and rather than the lift blocks supporting the mass of the body (and you) vertially, the bolts now must carry the weight through the turns. Think of it - does it seem safe to have 6, 1/2" or so bolts holding roughly 2500 lbs worth of body tub and humans in place? Keep it to 1 inch if at all possible.

Don't forget, if you raise the suspension, you'll need to install longer trac bars to locate the axles and adjust or replace steering components to keep the angles of steering-related items within specs. A full, complete kit, will have everything you need. Be sure to double and triple check those trac-bars - there's two in TJ Wranglers - one for each axle. Their job is to located the axle under the Jeep - if you hear a clunking noise after the install, chances are the mounting or location bolts/nuts are loose. In general, these nuts/bolts cannot be tight enough. Re-check them periodically and after every two or three trail rides. As with any suspension changes, go get an alignment when you're done.

Visit this link to know details about 2003 JEEP WRANGLER TJ INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS BODY LIFT KIT

Hope this helps (remember to rate and comment this answer).
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2.Remove the Phillips head screw from metal bracket, that is revealed after removing the trim piece
3.Pry the inside light assembly from the door panel and remove the bulb socket from the housing
4.Pry the door panel from the frame using a panel removal tool by starting at the bottom and releasing the 7-8 plastic studs from the frame.
5 - Remove the 2 mounting bolts for the rear door controller and disconnect the cables.
6.Use a small flat blade (e.g. scraper) and flathead screwdriver to remove the plastic vapor barrier (be careful not to tear as it must be replaced).
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10.Remove the window lift motor plug and (3) 10 mm nuts that hold the lift mechanism in place and remove through the opening at the front of the inner door sheet metal.This will require some maneuvering.
11.Loosen but do not remove the 2 bolts for the window clamps on the new unit before installing.
12.Make sure the new unit is not in the full up position before installing.
13.Install the new lift mechanism in the door and tighten the (3) 10 mm mounting nuts.
14.Connect the power plug into the new lift motor
15.Temporarily connect the rear door controller, turn on the ignition and slowly raise the new lift mechanism using the window up switch on the driver's door.
16.Then the lift is in the full up position, tighten the window glass clamps using the same access holes as when you removed the glass clamps.
17.Slowly run the window down and up to make sure it doesn't bind
18.Disconnect the read door controller and reverse the process for assembly
19. Make sure the rear door light socket and bulb are not trapped behind the plastic.
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