Where are the vacuum lines on a dodge stratus located i have a vacuum leak which causes my car to turn off

Low octane fuel, use a higher octane fuel.
Low fuel pressure, check fuel pressure. If low replace filter, fuel pump or pressure regulator.
Vacuum leak, check inlet manifold for air leaks and broken or cracked hoses.

there are several possibilities, I will just suggest one, based on the age and brand of your car. You probably have a critical vacuum leak somewhere. Check all your vacuum lines for breaks, leaks or cracks.

Check for vacuum leaks around the intake
and all vacuum hoses the idal control. Mn

check the vacuum lines for leaks first,since the cruise uses vacuum to pull on the gas pedal, and ac controls use vacuum to work the baffle doors in the ductwork..then start looking for loose connections on these 3 itemsrepost findings

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

It sounds like vacuum is not getting to the vent, heat and A/C controls. Find the vacuum can. It may be under the hood on one of the inner fenders. The "one-way" check valve is usually located in the line and close to the can, make sure it works properly. The valve could be the very thing that's causing the problem. Trace the lines back to the vacuum block at the intake manifold or fire-wall, and also back to where the line goes thru the fire-wall. Check the can for leaks or obvious holes. They used to be just a plain metal can, but it could be a plastic ball. Check the lines as you go, for breaks and rub-thru's. Move the controls thru all settings and listen for vent door movement. Worst case is a bad vacuum motor or air flow position selector switch, and/or a faulty Blend Door Actuator. If you have been driving around with the Temperature knob or control set at the same spot for months, move it from fully cold to fully hot several times and wait for the air temperature to change each time. This will help reset the blend door and vacuum control system. Hope this helps... Let me know what you find.

there could be many things to cause this, you may have a bad oil preasure switch thats leaking or the oil cooler lines are leaking , the bestt thing is to put it on a lift and clean the area and run the engine inorder to locate the leak.

THE EGR VALVE MAY BE STICKING ..CAUSES A VACUUM LEAK AND ROUGH RUNNING AT LOWER SPEEDS..4 CYLINDER..LOCATED ON END OF CYLINDER HEAD ON LEFT SIDE OF VEHICLE..HAS METAL TUBE COMING FROM INTAKE..6 CYLINDER..LOCATED ON FRONT CYLINDER HEAD ON LEFT SIDE OF VEHICLE..NEAR RAD..HAVE SEEN THESE CAUSE PROBLEMS ON THESE VEHICLES..LET ME KNOW IF YOU NEED MORE INFO

you have a vaccuum leak. Check vacuum hoses under hood for loose cracked or disconnected vacuum lines

Try to unplug maf sensor and try to start and run. ECM will go to default values. I vehicle starts and runs with sensor discoed then that is the problem. Make sure all connections for air induction between maf an intake are tight and there are no leaks. Air leaks after maf sensor will cause runability issues.