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I have a brake problem, replaced front and rear and the master cyl. still get metal to metal sounds. brakes fail after used for awhile. After sitting for 5 min. not running the brakes are back. HELP
Re: I have a brake problem, replaced front and rear and...
Recheck the entire braking system, look for bad wheel bearings, make sure calipers are free floating, rear brakes are adjusted, parking brake releases ok, vacuum booster holds ,
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If you start the car ,leave it in park,push on the brake pedal very gently,
if it slowly fades, the master cyl. is bad.
If not,has to be air,just take the master cyl. cap off,and open a bleeder,let gravity do the rest(rears first) takes awhile but all the air comes out. Pumping the brakes to bleed tends to "whip"air bubbles into the system,
Have you tried to bleed the brakes,it sounds like you have air in the system. I would try bleeding the brakes first ,start with the wheel farthest from the master cyl. The right rear,left rear,right front left front. If that does'nt help check the master cyl and brake booster.
If the car has drum brakes in the rear, Jack the rear up and have someone push the brake pedal hard and you try to turn the wheel. If you can turn it you need to adjust the rear shoes. They may be traveling out so far that the fluid level drops causing the pedal to go to the floor. You must adjust them with the drum on till you hear and feel the shoes rubbing against the drum. Hope this helps.
Normally when the brake pedal goes almos to the floor it is an indication of low brake fluid. Low brake fluid is an indication that front and/or rear brakes are wearing. As the brake pads wear down more brake fluid will be required in the wheel cylinders or calipers. Hint, the front brakes usually wear much faster than the rear due to the fact that the fronts due a much greater braking function that the rear. Check the front pads. Don't let them get down to the metal scraping metal stage before you change them out. This causes unnessary damage to the rotors. Look at your master cylinder on the firewall under the hood in front of the steering wheel. If the fluid level is belowhte "max" mark add fluid. Low fliud should also show as a red "brake" light on your dash, but not always.
Sounds like the booster is not working correctly. In the booster or on the intake line right next to the master cyclinder there is a check valve. The intake lines sometimes get carbon in them. You can check it by: letting it sit for a while and removing the check valve and you should hear a release of air (vacuum). If you do not hear this then replace the check valve.$12~$14. Or start the motor with the check valve of fand place your thumb over the check valve and see if you get strong vacuum. If it's weak, it needs to be replaced.
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