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Poor heater output. Engine temp is ok. Blower air flow if ok. The engine water pump was replaced, before that, no heat at all. Now heat, but poor. any ideas? This is a 1997 Saturn SL1
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Low or poor heat usually means your thermostat is stuck open. To check with a cold engine, remove the rad cap and start the engine look inside there should be no water flow, if its flowing the stat is open.
Is the thermostat installed up side down. That does happen sometimes and will cause that.
Is the radiator a new one if not could be plugged and won't let the antifreeze flow.
Is the water pump functioning right. Check your belts as well.
Is the fluid in the rad up where it should be. Low fluid will cause the water pump to not work. Just thoughts of what would cause your problem.
check to see if both heater hoses are same temp when engine is at normal running temp if not heater core not flowing coolant may need to flush also make sure it does reach normal temp around 200
Check the coolant level. in the winter time It will not over heat very easily but vapor locks can occur and low coolant level will do what your describing ...When you drive the water pump is spinning faster causing coolant to intermittently flow through the heater core so it gets warm then cold at an idle.. also a thermostat that is stuck open will also cause this its also in the cooling system, if the cooling system is full I would replace the thermostat..good luck hope this helps
A low coolant level will do this as well as a thermostat being stuck in the open position cure is to replace the thermostat another cause is low coolant flow through the heater core and could be partially plugged flushing the heater core will fix this condition hope this helps
could be waterpump?
i was going to say rad fan,but if so heater would be hot.
lack of coolant will make heater core to blow cold,if engine heats up with full coolant,usually means poor or no circulation.
water pump?
run engine with full coolant,at operating temp.with rad cap off and look in rad cap hole and see if there is movement of water inside rad.
[rad fan will not come on if water is not circulating through rad water pump?]
I presume the engine is actually overheating -(not just a temperature gauge sender issue - check for poor connection at sender).
If so, go through the checklist following:-
1) Check engine cooling fan/s are operating as required when engine temp rises above cut-in threshold - check fan control relay is ok,
2) Check for collapsing radiator hose on suction side of water-pump when motor revs raised above idle. 3) Check coolantreservoir pressure cap is serviceable, 4) Check coolant system is properly filled - carry out any bleed off procedure specified to clear any air locks- (ensure heater core coolant flow is turned on). 5) Check condition of radiator core:- i) for blockage of air flow to (bugs/grass etc), ii) for core internal blockage to coolant flow,
Make 100% sure before you go and spend more $$$ that (1) you have good coolant flow through the heater core; get engine to operating temp,then with heater fan on high and temp control on full hot carefully grasp heater in and out hoses(i use a in-fared heat gun to diagnose). They should be very close to same temp, if not, core is plugged or if equipped with a flow control valve, its not opening or there is an air lock in system.(2) If coolant flow is good, suspect the hot/cold blend door being stuck in cold position assuming you have good air flow. Its very rare for engine cooling to be ok and heater core coolant flow be bad , caused by a failed water pump! Hope this helps! Please rate me,Thanks!
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