Engine missing running rough has noise in rear intake right area

check wire connection on throttle body, may be intermittent / corroded?

Here are the most common causes of idle surge, rough idle esp when cold and stalls at stops, slow idle speed, erratic idle speed, rough idle and engine hesitation (and other problems), it is in most cases the idle speed control air-bypass valve and or throttle valve and upper intake, these area's get full of gunk and combustion residue over the miles and cause idle issues (stalls, low idle) like yours, Get a can of intake cleaner from any local parts store, not carb spray, intake cleaner, it is made by a company called CRC, remove the air intake hose to the engine, hold the idle high so the engine won't stall, then spray the can of cleaner into the intake while keeping the engine running, use at least 1/2 the can, shut down the engine and disconnect the battery for 5 minutes, then restart and complete a number of mixed driving cycles, town, freeway, stop and go etc., after a few days the problem will go away as the system will relearn to the clean intake.

I dont think and intake gasket will cause lifter noise. It may cause a rough idle and or a miss at idle on cold start up . as the engine warms up the miss or rough idle will decrease . As for the lifter noise this could be cause by the lifter bleeding down or poor oil presure . On your model of engine there is no adjustment on the rocker arms for lifter noise . They are a 0 lash type .

The engine in your car is designed to run smoothly with maximum power output and produce as minimal emissions as possible. When your car's engine is not performing properly it can cause, low gas mileage, low power output, increased emissions and possible internal engine damage if left untreated. This troubleshooting guide is designed to isolate the malfunctioning cylinder and troubleshoot to repair the problem. Before we start we need to know one of two things; is the engine running poorly at idle only and seems to be ok under power? Or does the engine run fine and it's just the engine idle condition that is the problem. If your engine is idling rough please visit, engine misfires at idle If your engine cranks over but won't start visit engine wont start. If your engine won't crank over visit engine wont crank over. If your engine is running rough all of the time or intermittently you are in the right place. Below we have created a guide to aid diagnoses and repair procedure for most common rough engine running problems.
Car Repair Guide - READ COMPLETELY BEFORE BEGINNING

• Step 1: Anytime you have a problem with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system, air bag) inspect all fuses in the under hood power distribution center and under dash fuse panels using a test light. If all fuses test ok continue to the next step.
  
• Step 2: To check for problems with electronically controlled components such as an engine, transmission, ABS brake, or SRS (supplemental restraint system) and the fuses test ok a trouble code scan is needed to identify any system trouble. Use a simple scanner tool to retrieve trouble codes and check if they relate to the specific problem, like an ignition coil failure code. If a trouble code is present but does not pertain to the immediate problem like an EVAP code ignore it until a later time, after the engine is running properly. The reason we repair non-related codes after the engine is running properly is because sometime false codes can be triggered by a rough running engine. Once the engine is running properly the code present might cycle and turn itself off. You might say "if the engine isn't running right shouldn't it have a check engine light and a trouble code?" Sometimes conditions occur that will not be detected by the computer, example: if the intake or exhaust valve operation fails the computer cannot detect the failure because the problem is not sensor related, so the engine doesn't run smooth and the computer thinks everything is ok with no codes. If the trouble code retrieved relates to a cylinder misfire like an injector driver or ignition coil failure first repair these problems then re-test system. If no trouble codes are present proceed to the next step.
  
• Step 3: The spark plugs in your engine are used to ignite the compressed fuel air mixture. If the condition of the spark plugs are fouled by excessive fuel or carbon the engine will not start, backfire or run rough. Remove all spark plugs to inspect the condition of the plug. Please use this spark plug condition reference guide to see how the spark plugs are operating.
  
• Step 4: Check for broken or dilapidated vacuum hoses on and around the engine, your car's engine is designed to run on a system that can hold vacuum. Vacuum hoses are typically connected to the engine intake manifold and will supply engine vacuum to various accessories like power brakes. Some cars are designed with a larger vacuum transfer hose like Ford that connects the intake manifold to the IAC (idle air control) motor. A broken or dilapidated vacuum line or air intake boot can cause the engine to lose vacuum which will allow the engine to run rough and die. Inspect all engine and accessory vacuum lines to look for missing, torn or dilapidated lines and replace as needed. Also have a helper rest their foot on the gas pedal just enough to keep the engine running. Check the engine when it is running to listen for any whistling noise coming from the engine that is not usually present. Follow the noise and inspect vacuum lines in that area. Also, when the engine is running it will pull inward a broken or weak piece of the hose to create a larger vacuum leak. Check the integrity of all vacuum hoses at each end of the hose. Typically this is where a vacuum hose fails. If all vacuum hoses check "ok" proceed to the next step.
  

Also check here: http://www.2carpros.com/articles/engine-misfires-or-runs-rough

a vacuum leak is the most common cause for a rough idle, a bad spark plug could also be the cause. Spray down your intake manifold area with carb cleaner and see if the idle changes, don't get carried away, spray just a small area at a time, and wait 10 seconds for a result.

There are two likely possibilities. One is a leaking vacuum line. Inspect the vacuum hoses closely. Listen for any tell-tale hissing sound. Oftentimes the culprit is the hose going from the PCV valve to the intake manifold. It is susceptible to cracking. While you're at it, check the condition of the PCV valve.

The other possibility is a faulty Idle Air Control (IDAC) valve. If the IDAC is not opening sufficiently, the engine will idle rough or die at idle. Try removing the IDAC entirely, so the air intake is open. If the engine idles ok with the IDAC removed, replace it with a new IDAC.

If neither one of these possibilities checks out, you will need further trouble-shooting.

With both codes pointing at TP sensor, I'd certainly take the time to replace it, as well as make sure connections to it are clean, and good. Chances are, you won't be able to take part back anyway. As far as exhaust goes, if it's leaking in the right places in may cause improper readings at sensors downstream, but if not obvious leak, I wouldn't be concentrating in that area right now.

sounds more like a air control /sensor but its difficult to diagnose from spain without seeing the car ,sorry for being able to give a quick fix

How long have you ran the engine ? I know that they will run rough and sometimes make strange noises for a few secounds or a little bit untill everything get oiled up again. I would make sure all the push rods are back in the right place and that all the lifters are tight.

Check the Cam Shaft. its a know issue on these cars. i have a 1990 i have to look out for the same issue. 2.0 Manual.