Question about 1985 Ford Ranger

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1995 ford ranger with 4.0 auto, I have very little heat based on out side air temp, have replaced radiator, water pump and changed thermostat 6 times, the temp gauge will go to mid range and then drops to cold this fluxiation is constant resulting in to cold of water resulting in little heat

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  • duffeyg Dec 21, 2009

    The cooling system is clean with new radiator, heater core, water pump, fan clutch and fan I think it is something do with thermostat have changed it with ever one know to man 195deg. as soon as it opens it closes resulting in to cold of water the temp gauge should come up to mid range and hold their.

  • duffeyg Dec 22, 2009

    you need to review my problem again, as I said I have installed every 195deg. thermostat know to man including fords, nothing will change the fluxiation of temp gauge, as soon as it opens it will close back

  • duffeyg Dec 22, 2009

    The reason I am still pointing to a thermostat issue is by the way the temp comes up to mid range when it is closed and immediatly drops to cold in stead of operating in mid range all the time however every one i have installed acks the same way, you can only install it one way the housing neck will not accept it but in one direction, the temp sensor has also been changed and it is located on top of intake manifold, their are no units mounted in radiator and it has only one wire, the heater core shut off valve is open all the time except when the a/c in placed in the max air position then it gets a vacuum signal to close, also I have bleed the air from entire system the best as possible, |I have read where this is a common problem with fords 4.0, but can never find the solution to problem



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Hi. There are several ways to test the opening temperature of a thermostat. Use this procedure to confirm that you are running the correct rated thermostat.

One method does not require that the thermostat be removed from the engine.

* Remove the radiator pressure cap from a cool radiator and insert a thermometer into the coolant.
* Start the engine and let it warm up. Watch the thermometer and the surface of the coolant.
* When the coolant begins to flow, this indicates the thermostat has started to open.
* The reading on the thermometer indicates the opening temperature of the thermostat.
* If the engine is cold and coolant circulates, this indicates the thermostat is stuck open and must be replaced.

The other way to test a thermostat is to remove it.


* Suspend the thermostat completely submerged in a small container of water so it does not touch the bottom.
* Place a thermometer in the water so it does not touch the container and only measures water temperature.
* Heat the water.
* When the thermostat valve barely begins to open, read the thermometer. This is the opening temperature of this particular thermostat.
* If the valve stays open after the thermostat is removed from the water, the thermostat is defective and must be replaced.
* Several types of commercial testers are available. When using such a tester, be sure to follow the manufacturer's instructions.
* Markings on the thermostat normally indicate which end should face toward the radiator. Regardless of the markings, the sensored end must always be installed toward the engine.
* When replacing the thermostat, also replace the gasket that seals the thermostat in place and is positioned between the water outlet casting and the engine block.
* Generally, these gaskets are made of a composition fiber material and are die-cut to match the thermostat opening and mounting bolt configuration of the water outlet.
* Thermostat gaskets generally come with or without an adhesive backing. The adhesive backing of gaskets holds the thermostat securely centered in the mounting flange, leaving both hands of the technician free to align and bolt the thermostat securely in place.

Posted on Dec 22, 2009

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  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Dec 22, 2009

    I understand that, but you yourself, stated in your post that you think its something with the thermostat. This is why i posted the thermostat check guide.This is your exact Quote.

    "I think it is something do with thermostat have changed it with ever one know to man 195deg."

    Now, with that begin said, If you have verified that you did install the thermostat correctly, this will lead to a failed temperature sensor. This switch is a basic sending unit. It is located on the radiator. It will be the only attachment that will have two wires attachment to its head. This sensor is wired to the PCM, and instrument panel, as well. It is responsible for sending the correct temperature information to the instrument in your dash. This will be your culprit.

    NOTE_ Make sure that the Heater Core is installed correctly, and the heater core shut-off valve is in the open position, as well.

  • Michael Masters
    Michael Masters Dec 22, 2009

    Additionally, I think the cooling system was not bleed properly. This has induced a bubble in the system. This will cause the symptoms your are experiencing as well. If the heater core shut-off valve is open all the way, and the temperature sensor is operational, this will lead to an obstruction in the coolant system, due to the system not being bleed, correctly.

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I am suspecting a flow issue like a clogged radiator or something to do with the impeller on the water pump was there alot of rust? If so that is the impeller and it is in your system real good make sure to flush it until clear water runs out

Posted on Dec 21, 2009

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