1988 ford ranger why is there gasoline in the brake booster.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qg_uRf78Jyo

This is showing how to do the brake booster and not the master cylinder and it is for a 1983 which is only 5 yrs older but basically the same procedure is performed on both the '83 vs. '88 models. You just have to go one step further to do mastercylinder but you remove the brake lines first and the proceed in removing it. Before you put master cylinder back on, you will have to bench it to insure all the air is removed so you won't get air into the brake system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OUvBHnOh9ao
This video show a 2002 ranger but the bleeding proceder is the same. I hbope this helps with all your repairs. Jesus loves you, John 3:16-17 (KJV)

Check that the master cylinder push rod is disconnected from the brake petal under the dashboard.

HOW DO YOU TEST THE POWER BOOSTER ON A FORD RANGER, RUN THE ENGINE FOR A 30 SECONDS OR LESS IF IT WASN'T DRIVEN BEFORE, WITH ENGINE OF , REMOVE THE BIG HOSE ON TOP OF THE POWER BOOSTER, IS THERE ANY SUCTION NOISE, AT THE HOSE, NO, THE START THE ENGINE, MAKE SURE THE HOSE TO THE BOOSTER HAS MAJOR VACUUM, IF ALSO NO REPAIR THE HOSE FROM THE INTAKE TO THE BOOSTER, IF YES IS OK, THE BOOSTER DOES NOT HAVE A VACUUM NOISE THE DAIGFRAM IS BROKEN, HAS GOOD VACUUM, BOOSTER IS GOOD, HARD PEDAL COULD BE CAUSED BY BAD BRAKE HOSES OR BAD CALIPERS , WHERE MORE FORCE IS NEED IT TO STOP THE VEHICLE.

If the brakes work but you have to push very hard, try checking the vacuum supply to the brake booster with the engine running.

fuel doenst run into the brake booster are sure it wasnt brake fluid if so your master sylinder has to be replaced

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: Make sure that the booster rubber reaction disc is properly installed if the master cylinder push rod is removed or accidentally pulled out. A dislodged disc may cause excessive pedal travel and extreme operation sensitivity. The disc is black compared to the silver colored valve plunger that will be exposed after the push rod and front seal is removed. The booster unit is serviced as an assembly and must be replaced if the reaction disc cannot be properly installed and aligned, or if it cannot be located within the unit itself.

1. Disconnect the stop lamp switch wiring to prevent running the battery down.
2. Support the master cylinder from the underside with a prop.
3. Remove the master cylinder-to-booster retaining nuts.
4. Loosen the clamp that secures the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve, and remove the hose. Remove the booster check valve.
5. Pull the master cylinder off the booster and leave it supported by the prop, far enough away to allow removal of the booster assembly.
6. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, remove the retaining pin and slide the stop lamp switch, push rod, spacers and bushing off the brake pedal arm.
7. From the engine compartment remove the bolts that attach the booster to the dash panel. To install:
   
8. Mount the booster assembly on the engine side of the dash panel by sliding the bracket mounting bolts and valve operating rod in through the holes in the dash panel. NOTE: Make certain that the booster push rod is positioned on the correct side of the master cylinder to install onto the push pin prior to tightening the booster assembly to the dash.
   
9. From inside the cab, install the booster mounting bracket-to-dash panel retaining nuts.
10. Position the master cylinder on the booster assembly, install the retaining nuts, and remove the prop from underneath the master cylinder.
11. Install the booster check valve. Connect the manifold vacuum hose to the booster check valve and secure with the clamp.
12. From inside the cab on vehicles equipped with push rod mounted stop lamp switch, install the bushing and position the switch on the end of the push rod. Then install the switch and rod on the pedal arm, along with spacers on each side, and secure with the retaining pin.
13. Connect the stop lamp switch wiring.
14. Start the engine and check brake operation.

Fig. 1: Check the booster pushrod adjustment using a gauge with the shown dimensions


Fig. 2: Exploded view of the typical power brake booster Fig. 3: Booster vacuum hose connections - 2.3L & 2.9L


Fig. 4: Booster vacuum hose connections for the 4.0L

rotors,pads,calipers,brake hoses,brake lines,front brake hardware,wheel bearings and the races,grease seals i hope this helps you. richard

It will be under the hood, on the driver's side, mounted on the brake booster, mounted on firewall. The master cylinder is usually silver with a plastic reservoir on top with a black plasic cap, there should be 4 steel lines coming out of it. Remove the cap and fill up to the "FULL" level on the reservoir.

Not sure exactly but I love to do stuff like this. First thing I would do is go to a salvage yard and rob the pieces form another truck with power brakes. You know you need the booster and the master cylinder, but you might also need the pedal and the pedal bracket. All the lines and the combo valve and calipers and wheel cylinders should be fine.

go to the master cylinder and remove it from the booster, disconnect the vacuum line from the booster, then disconnect the brake plunger from your brake pedal inside the vehicle, then remove the booster mounting bolts from inside the vehicle then remove the booster, install in reverse order, once you install the master cylinder, you will need to bleed out any air in the brake system, hope this helps, let me know