I just rebuilt my 4l60e and reinstalled and now i have reverse, manual 1st, manual 2nd nothing else! Upon disassembly icame across a check ball that was stuck in the separator plate i just assumed it was trashed up. After discovering i had problems I started researching on the net and came across this one posting referring to sticking check balls causing this problem. Asking for your input?
Note that many problems that show up as transmission issues are
actually PCM or electrical, and may be external to the transmission.
Try a different PCM, and check for chafing where the cables come out of
the PCM.
The transmission is on the same fuse as the MAF, O2 sensors and at
least one other sensor - if an O2 shorts out, it will blow the fuse and
the trans will go into limp-home mode. Be sure the trans has power and
the fuse is not blown before doing anything else.
Limp mode is a fault mode in which the transmission either loses electrical power
or the PCM deactivates all of the electronics. The transmission will
default to max line pressure. The driver will have Reverse and 3rd,
with manual 2nd available by putting the gearshift in 2 or 1 (doesn't
matter). 1st, 4th, and TCC lockup will not be available. It will not
hurt the car to drive it like this for short periods, but use manual
2nd to get the car moving, and be aware that the trans will generate
more heat than normal while operating in limp-home mode due to
increased torque converter slippage during 2nd gear starts and no
lockup in 3rd gear.
Check
the wire harness clip on the transmission, passenger side by the
catalytic converter. Look for any damages due to corrosion or brake in
the wire leads. it's common for the clip to brake and the wire harness
to loosen causing the transmission in to limp mode. Good luck and keep
me posted, be glad to help you get your transmission running again soon
and please rate.
Check for check ball wear on the separator plate and address it if
needed. The 1-2 check ball wears out and sometimes the check ball blows
through or sticks in the plate causing troubles.
Just thought I would point out a few items to think about. Good luck.
The other improvement also you can do if has not been done yet is to replace the boost valve with 0.490". I has put in a 0.500" boost valve but found that to be to harsh on the shifting and tires would break traction in the rain under hard acceleration even on 4wd. Put a line pressure gauge or visit a local trans
shop on the pressure test port and go for a drive to verify proper
line pressure. Base pressure at idle in P,N,OD should be around 70psi
and around 140psi in R. Max line pressure should be at least 190psi at
WOT in 1st or 2nd, 225psi is optimum. If base pressure is low, trans or
pump is worn out. If max pressure is low, check EPC solenoid. If
reverse is slow to engage, and line pressure does not come up to at
least 130psi in reverse, replace the boost valve with a Transgo 0.490"
boost valve (easy fix in pan). You can check the wire harness for power to the transmission or have a someone with a tech2 scanner read for any DTC codes and transmission performance to pinpoint why your transmission is in limp mode. Also you mentioned that your replaced the servo's. That is one of the best things to do but make sure the corvette servo's was installed properly and it's common to have the 2-4 piston installed backwards, even from an experienced transmission shop to do. Keep me posted friend.
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There should not be any check balls "Stuck" in the separator plate. It is very common though for check balls especially the 1-2 shift check ball to wear out the separator plate and stick in it.
The 4L60E has 10 check balls in total. Two of them are in capsules and pressed into the case. Special tools are needed to remove and install these capsules into the case. These you probably didnt mess with and are probably still in the case.
Seven of the remaining eight check balls are placed in the VALVE BODY side of the separator plate. Refer to your picture here. The one remaining check ball is placed on the CASE side of the separator plate right next to the 3-4 accumulator bore. Here's a pic.
**ALSO** If you had a check ball stuck in the separator plate you need to replace the plate. Take your VIN # to the dealer and get a new plate. They are less than $20.
This will help. Thanks please keep updated.please do rate the
solution positively .thank you for using fixya
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Hey I appreciate the info I,ve eliminated all but the check balls and separator plate. Was kind of wondering if there was any other possibilities like maybe i could have a torn lip seal I hope not but just wondering what all these symptoms could possibly be linked to. I hope my transmission is not damaged from this!!!!
Thanks again for the info
rscfoster
it was slipping from 1st to second and i replaced the servo with a corvette servo and longer pin and now it does not slip but nothing else changed. I have a new plate coming, i also seen a check ball seat repair kit said recommended for any performance app? which would be better?
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