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Posted on Jan 10, 2010

Heater door does not open - 1997 Ford Taurus

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My 2005 GMC C7500 heater is not blowing hot air. The fan is working fine, but it seems we can'[t get it to switch to heat. We replaced the in dahs switch assembly thinking the switch just wasn't...

It is probably the blend doors in the heater case not opening correctly. They are probably vacuum operated doors.


Check the heater core by feeling both heater hoses (the inlet and outlet) when the engine is at normal operating temperature. Both hoses should feel hot, meaning the heater core is circulating coolant correctly. If only one hose feels hot, the heater core may be plugged up, or it may have an air block.

If the heater core checks out good, check the heater case doors for proper movement when you switch from cold to heat. Several vacuum lines branch out from back of the control unit to vacuum canisters on the case, which open or close the various doors. These doors used to be only cable operated, but most are now vacuum operated. There should be a single vacuum hose from the engine, into the firewall, and then to the heater control unit in the dash, where hoses distribute the vacuum signal to various doors or vents as demanded by the switch settings.
tip

Heat troubleshooting

<span>There are a few reasons this might happen to your system.<span> </span>A typical system is shown in the diagram below:<span> </span></span><br /><br /><br /><img src="CC87E1A.jpg" /><br /><br />The system requires hot water from the engine to pass through the heater core and the blend (or mix) door positioned for air pushed by the blower motor to pass through the core.<span> </span>If the <a href="/../cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air#">vehicle</a> has no air conditioning, the evaporator is absent from the system.<span> </span>Some designs also incorporate a control valve in the heater hose to stop coolant flow to the heater core when not in use. The blend door position is actuated by a stepper motor or cable.<br />Typical failure modes are as follows:<br /><span><span>1.<span> </span></span></span>Blend door stuck<br /><span><span>2.<span> </span></span></span>Blend door actuator failed motor or stripped gears<br />3. Blend door cable is broke or needs adjustment<br /><span><span>4.<span> </span></span></span>Temperature control switch failed<br /><span><span>5.<span> </span></span></span>Air pockets in engine cooling system<br /><span><span>6.<span> </span></span></span>Clogged heater core<br /><span><span>7.<span> </span></span></span>Heater coolant control valve failed closed<br />8. Thermostat failed open<br /><br /><b>Troubleshooting:</b><br />First, with your engine hot and the heater turned on, feel the heater hoses in the engine compartment as they attach to the heater core at the firewall.<span> </span>If either of the hoses is cold, the problem is likely a lack of adequate coolant flow.<span> </span><br /><br /><b>No or low coolant flow:<span> </span></b><br />Check for the presence of a control valve in one of the heater hoses--trace the hoses all the way to the engine.<span> </span>Not all vehicles have such valves.<span> </span>If you find one, check to see if it is actuating properly.<span> </span>It should receive a signal of some kind from the heater controls and open when the temperature control is turned to heat.<span> </span>If you cannot determine that the valve is opening, try taking one of the clamps off and removing the hose to see inside the valve. A typical vacuum operated heater flow control valve is shown below:<br /><br /><img src="7FA590D.jpg" /> <br /><br />The valve may also be actuated by a solenoid or wire cable. <br />If you have no valve, next check the cooling system for air. If you have a radiator cap, take it off and look inside.<span> </span>If it is not full, fill it with coolant and start the engine.<span> </span>Turn the heater on and let the engine run until it is warm and the thermostat has opened.<span> </span>Continue to fill the radiator or reservoir until the level stops falling.<span> </span>Check for the presence of any bleed ports in the system.<span> </span>Bleed ports may be on the housings that radiator or heater hoses attach to or may be installed in the hoses themselves.<span> </span>A typical Honda application is shown below:<br /><br /><img src="C655B97.jpg" /><br /><br />For stubborn cases, p<span>ark the <a href="/../#">car</a> uphill, take cap off radiator, start <a href="/../cars/r6235876-no_heat_fan_blowing_cold_air#">car</a>, fill radiator, let it warm up until <a href="/../#">thermostat</a> opens, bleed air out, fill to the neck of the radiator and watch for bubbles coming up. Once you have bled the air, if gas continues to come out, you may have a blown head gasket that is forming bubbles that can block coolant from entering the heater. In these cases, the heater may work well at speed but blow cold at idle.</span><br /><br />Clogged core: If the control valve is open and there is no air in the system, your heater core may be clogged.<span> A quick way to check for a clogged core is to turn the blower motor off for a while and then back on. If it produces warm air for only a short time and then cools down, your core is only passing a small amount of coolant. This can also be caused by a bad control valve, if you car has one or possibly by a weak water pump. </span>You can try flushing the core by removing the heater hoses and attaching a garden hose or other source of water pressure to force water through the core.<span> </span>Use an adapter to make a good seal and connect to the lower pipe to backflush the core.<span> </span>If the core will not flush or allow adequate flow, replace the heater core.<br /><br />Thermostat: if your car temperature is running cold and only warms up when idling, the heater will do the same. This is caused by a thermostat that has failed open, allowing too much coolant to flow through the radiator. <span>.</span><br /><br /><b>Blend door not moving to heat position:</b><br />If you have coolant flow through the heater core, the problem is with the blend door.<span> </span>The blend door is almost always actuated from under the dashboard.<span> </span>Many systems use an electric motor to actuate the blend door.<span> </span>Check any heater or A/C fuses before tearing into your system.<span> </span>You may need to remove a partition to see the actuator.<span> </span>The door should be to the right of center under the dash.<span> </span>A typical electric motor actuator design is shown below.<br /><br /><img src="4ED4FC8.jpg" /> <br /><br />The actuator can be on the top front or bottom of the duct.<span> </span>Consult a manual for your vehicle if you cannot locate the actuator.<span> </span>Once you can see the actuator, watch it while you change the temperature setting (key on unless it is cable operated).<span> </span>If the actuator doesn't move or turn, troubleshoot the reason.<span> </span>Systems such as the one in the above picture typically fail in the shaft attach or the internal gears on the actuator.<span> </span>If your actuator is getting power but not moving the door, replace the actuator.<span> </span>If the actuator is not getting power, troubleshoot the control switch.<span> </span>Due to the wide variety of designs, we cannot provide test tips for electric blend door control switches.<br />Whether your blend door is electric or cable operated, remove the actuator and operate the door with your hand.<span> </span>If the door sticks, the heater box must be removed and opened to free the door and restore unhindered operation.<br />If your blend door is cable operated, check the cable for proper attachment at the control lever and at the door lever.<span> </span>The cable sheath must be properly adjusted and firmly clamped for proper operation.<span> </span>To adjust, first remove the cable from the door and move the door lever with your hand to observe the range of motion.<span> </span>Then set the control to full hot, open the door fully, and reattach the cable, clamping the sheath so as to ensure the door opens fully when set to hot.<br />
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Heater control diagram

The Tahoe does not have a heater control valve. Coolant flows through the heater core all the time. The heater has a door that opens and allows heat to mix with air from the a/c system which also has a door for the evaporator. Depending on what temprature you choose the doors are opened by a computer that is reading a temp sensor down stream from the doors. It opens or closes the doors until the proper temp is reached. You may have a problem with the blend door being broken or the sensor may be bad.
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No heat replaced heater core thermostat

So the blend door opens? Does the fan motor blow? Are both heater hoses hot? That would indicate the coolant is circulating through the core.
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I have no heat replace tthermostat,anitifreeze,the hose , I have good air cominng out of the vents last years I had a small bit of heat when I turn on the heat but this year none. what do you think It is?

Assuming the car does not overheat (Ruling out the water pump), I would look for something not opening the heater door. I think this car uses a pneumatic system to open the door for the fan to blow air over the heater core. If that door does not open, you won't get any heat. You probably have a cracked or broken pnuematic line behind the dash that controls the door.
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2005 grand caravan front heater and defrorst not working ,rear heater is working . i also hear a hissing noice on the passenger side

Just a suspicion: hissing noise comes from failed/jammed/malfunctioning motor to move the door
in the ducting to route heated air to the hoses/ports for "heater" and "defrost."
Problem: failure of motor/linkage to heater/defrost selector door under the dash on the passenger side.
Also sounds like you have not blown fuse to this selector door.
Also - hissing noise could be air being forced against the closed door (which should be open) - in this
case, you'd want to check the fuse to the heater/defroster actuator door.
The rear heater works since its function is not related to the operation of the front heater/defroster.
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Front heater dont work but back does

Sounds like the heater control actuator/door isn't opening. Should be under the dash middle to passengers side... on the heater box. The temp switch on the dash causes the actuator to open and close the baffle/door. It may have an arm thet moves the door or it might be that the actuator itself mounts to the heater box. With vehicle running, turn the temp control and watch to see if the actuator is moving. One actuator will move to position the defrost/mix/vent/floor... usually on the drivers side middle... the other should open the heater blend door. Usually hard to get to on most vehicles. Hope this helps, Mike
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Heater does not work just blows cold air

Heater core not transferring heat from coolant to metal of core, then you replace your heater core. Also there is a cable from the temp control which opens and shuts a door on the heater box. If the cable breaks then the door can be stuck in the open position.
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Heater blowes cold air replaced heater controls and all vales are working the heater core gets hot on both sides so how do i fix this

It seems to me if your heater core is hot, and the fan blows cold air, then your ducting is closed off. Try and see if your duct door is opening up. You say you changed out your controls, but it sounds as though it wasn't your controls that were bad, but what they control is not opening up.
It's all well and good that the heater core is getting hot, but if the fan cannot deliver that hot air passing through it, then walah.
It has to be an air duct obstruction. Either the ducting is collapsed, the duct door is not opening, or you have some obstruction blocking the ducting. My guess, because that is all I can give you without seeing for myself, is that the linkeage or solonoid that opens the duct door is not working. Older cars had a cable, but I believe newer use a solonoid to operate the opening and closing of the door. The door is there so you don't get the heat from the core when you are using AC.
Hope this helps.
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Heater won't heat up

Where the rubber hose goes into the heater, there should be an air switch that opens an closes a shut off to the heater coil try it manual it should open an close by hand
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