Need a full brake line diagram for 1992 ford

yep follows frame and inside gas tank to rear wheel well to above axle 1999 2006 Yukon Tahoe Suburban front to rear axle brake line replacement... 2004 chevy tahoe brake line diagram Google Search the 3 diagram is the front to rear

first make sure you have a new can of brake fluit
my vehicle takes a 5/16 wrench to open the value
get someone to pump the breaks and hold the brake pedal down
then open the valve with a can or pan under the value to catch the
fluid open value slowly until just fluid comes out no air do this several times and make sure you keep adding brake fluid to reservoir is full and do this to all wheels front and back so you have no water or air in the lines

have you replaced the brake fluid and bled the system under pressure, starting with rear wheel diagonally opposite the master cylinder in engine bay. and work way down to shorts. removing all bubbles from the lines. any air in system can travel. you need a brake bleeding kit with pressure lead that fits the cap size on the brake filler. also remember while doing this if you have manual gearbox and hydraulic clutch don't press down on the clutch pedal.

fill master cylinder, start at right rear. the way I do it is make sure cap is back on master cylinder. pump the brakes a few times then hold them. have another person open the bleeder valve at the tires until brakes go to floor. hold them down until bleeder is retightened but be sure master cylinder is not out of fluid. then go to left rear and do the same procedure, then right front, then left front. check fluid and if air is all out there should be brakes. good-day ! THIS IS HOW I HAVE ALWAYS DONE IT ! heres a little trick of sorts. you can change a master cylinder, and if you bench bleed it first. and no fluid is lost from the master cylinder lines you do not need to bleed the whole system. but make sure cylinder is full of fluid before putting on vehicle and all air is out of master cylinder.

DId you bleed the system after you changed the caliper? If the Master cylinder lost it's fluid while you were changing the caliper, then there is air in the system and you need to bleed the entire system. start with the REAR RIGHT, then the REAR LEFT and then the FRONT RIGHT and last the FRONT LEFT. make sure the master cylinder NEVER runs low on fluid and DO NOT re-use any fluid that you get out of the calipers.

Chilton won't offer a diagram because there are many line length combinations which can be used to repair this problem.

Often, technicians reroute the lines around the axle nearby the old line and secure it using plastic cable ties that can be bought at your local dollar store or Walmart.

There is a great deal of flexibility in putting a new line in, as long as it doesn't interfere with other moving parts of the suspension.

They don't make diagrams for brake lines. The lines are sold in bulk. You need to measure and duplicate the bends in the orignal lines and cut/flare the lines yourself. You will need a tubing cutter, flare tool and tubing bender.

start at the passenger rear tire, have someone PUMP up brakes and hold pressure on them, release pressure by locating small bleeder screw, loosen screw 1/4 turn, brake fluid/air should come out, after brake petal reaches floor tighten bleeder, repeat process until only brake fluid comes out. go to driver side rear repeat, go to pass. side front repeat, go to driver side front repeat, after each bleeding make sure you check brake fluid in reservoir.

check at the proportioning valve--some have a pin that sticks out from the side, when bleeding the brakes try to push that pin back in. But first check to see why this happened--fluid leak to rear wheels, brake hoses cracked and air getting into the system??????

The proportioning valve most definately can be the problem. Did you change it or is it the original? (A disc/drum system uses a 70%front/30%rear braking ratio, whereas an all-disc system is alot more even). I would first bleed the master cylinder. Then I would 'gravity bleed' the rest of the system by opening the bleeders on all 4 wheels. Do not at any point let the m/cylinder go dry. Also, do not touch the brake pedal.
Continuously check all 4 bleeders, when clean brake fluid with no bubbles at all is running from a bleeder, close it. When all 4 wheels are done, recheck the fluid level and you should be OK.
Pump the pedal to 'self-adjust' the rear calipers, then re-check the fluid level.
Any problem after that means you either have a loose connection (it's possible for a tiny leak to let air in, but not let fluid leak), a leak, or you need a new (disc/disc type) proportioning valve. I would try Summit Racing myself. Good Luck!