Find the wiring connector on the back of the headlight (under the hood.) Unplug the connector and remove the lock ring around it (turn it like a jar lid a fraction of a turn.) Wiggle the bulb out - it is held in with a rubber ring. Secure the new one in place in the same position - it won't go in the wrong way. Reinstall the lock ring and wire connector.
SOURCE: replaced bulb on brake light on 300m & still dosnt turn on
replace the flasher relay under the dash ... not exactly sure how that affects your brake lights but should solve the flasher problem.
SOURCE: changing headlight 300m
lift the hood. the light are down behind the light assembly. simply turn large black ring and it will come out. be carefull not to touch the glass on the new one. oil from your skin will cause it to prematurely fail.
SOURCE: I need to replace and then adjust the headlights
Park your vehicle on level ground with the headlights near a garage door or wall. A good distance is 2-3 feet away from the wall or door. The location must be perfectly level and flat at a distance of 10 to 25 feet away from the door or wall.
Switch on the low headlight beams and mark the horizontal and vertical centerlines of each headlight beams on the wall using masking tape. This will mark the center of each beam with a +. The marking will tell you where exactly the headlight beams should be centered from a distance.
Move the vehicle back about 10 to 25 feet away from the garage door or the wall.
Keep the headlights on the low beam setting.
Use the markings you made on the wall or garage door to, check where the light shines and see if the centerlines still match up with the masking tape marks. If the centerlines of the two beams do not align with the tape marks, you can adjust one or both sides as needed.
Make the necessary adjustments with the lights still on while watching the light beams on the wall and your marks.
Turning the top adjusting screws in a clockwise direction will raise the beam while counterclockwise turn will lower it.
Turning the side adjuster screws will adjust the lights to the left or right.
Continue the adjustments until the center of the light beams are aligned with the tape marks. Then adjust the vertical alignment of both beams slightly below the marks on the wall. This will assure that the lights are tilted slightly downward so they won’t blind approaching motorist.
The will align bot lights, the high and low sine both are connected to the same headlight!!
SOURCE: headlight bulb replacement on chrysler 300m
Parts Required: Change all the lights at once, it is not worth the
anguish of doing this over and over again
2 low-beam lights, 2
high-beam/running lights, 2 parking lights - part nos in the owners
manual
A can of diet coke to clean the battery terminals is
also recommended. *optional
Tools required
Ratchet set : 10mm, 7mm, 6mm sockets
Extension 12"
Large Flat
screwdriver, small 4" flat screwdriver and a pair of pliers
Flash-light
12" Magnetic tip telescoping bit
Surgical
gloves
Battery terminal cleaner * optional
Step
1:
First take off the plastic cover that cover that is
across the front of the engine compartment. 6 push pins hold it in
place, Use the long flat screw driver to pry them up and use the pliers
to pull them off.
Gently take the plastic cover off and set
it aside.
Step 2:
Next you will see 3 push pins
that hold the front grill to the engine housing, using the long flat
and a pair of pliers pull the 3 push pins out.
Step 3:
In
the upper area of each wheel well, you will see a large 2.5" rubber
grommet. Pull the rubber grommet out
Step 4:
Locate
a 6mm bolt head that is driven vertically upwards. It is not visible
looking at the wheel well. You have to lay down on the floor and you
will find it about a foot below the grommet and at the edge of the
fender. Use the the ratchet to remove this bolt headed screw. It is
about a 1.5" long. Do this for both sides before going to the next step
Step
5:
Start with the passenger side as it is easier. Use the
flash light and peer into the fender area from the engine compartment.
You will see a nut on a bolt, and a plastic fastener.
Use the 10mm
socket on the 12" extension. Insert it into the hole where the grommet
was, and guide the socket on the nut head. It is about an 1" long. Be
careful as you take it off, else you will be fishing for the bolt in the
fender.
Step 6:
Pull on the plastic fender in the
front till the bolt head and the fastener exit the fender. This has to
be repeated for each side.
Step 7:
Locate 8mm bolt
heads on top of the light assembly. Note it is not the Philips head -
they are to level the lamps. Before undoing the bolts, check the spirit
level on top of the lamp assembly and make a note of the bubbles
position. You will need this when you put the assembly back. Undo both
bolts, they have about an 1" of thread on the top and then you have to
pull it up physically or with the use of the pliers
Step 8:
Pull the headlight assembly out - gently. Don't scratch the paint work
and don't damage the rubber molding around the light assembly.
Step
8a*: If you see any salt build up on the battery terminals, pour
diet coke or pepsi on the terminals, this neutralizes all the salt. Then
pour some water to clean the gunk and then with a paper towel dry it.
Be careful with the paper towel, as it contains sulfuric acid and is
corrosive, put in in a garbage bag immediately. If you feel it has come
into contact with your skin, was vigorously before continuing.
Step
9:
Note the position of the connector before you do anything.
Turn the retaining rings holding each bulb counter clock wise. When you
do this the bulb assembly and the connector will pull free. Two
instances of this. Remove assembly, and place securely on a table
Step
10:
Locate the parking light below and turn the connector
clockwise as you are looking over it. Pull out the old bulb and replace
it. Do this for both sides. Turn on the parking lights to ensure they
work, try the signals too. No sense it putting it all back together and
nothing works. Replace the holder and bulb in reverse order. Note the
unit should fit in nicely and rotate smoothly as you turn counter
clockwise this time.
Step 11:
Using the 4" flat
screwdriver, lift the locking pins gently and push the bulb out, Start
with the low beams. Low beam has only 1 filament, high-beam/running
light has 2 filaments. Put on the pair of surgical gloves, and open the
pack of new bulbs, push the bulbs into the empty sockets, until the
locking pins click into place. Change the low-and high beams.
Step
12:
Insert the bulb with the connector in the position you
noted in step 9. Slide the mounting ring and then lock it into place by
turning it clock-wise as you are looking at it from the rear of the
assembly. Repeat this for both the high beam and low beam. Slide
assembly back into cavity. Repeat this for the other side. Test the
bulbs light correctly
Step 13:
Gently push back the
front plastic so that the bolt and the plastic stud enter the fender.
Pay attention to ensure that the fender lining sits correctly. Using the
12" ratchet extension and the 10mm socket mount the bolt back on and
tighten. Do this for both sides
Step 14:
Using the
ratchet mount the 6mm fastener on to the fender. Do this for both sides
Step
15:
Mount the jack screws on top of the headlight assembly.
Tighten till the bubble in the spirit level returns to the original
position. Don't push the bolt past its maximum. If it doesn't return to
the original level, loosen and adjust the headlamp assembly and
re-tighten. Do this for both headlamps.
Step 16:
Replace the 3 push pins that hold the front grill to the engine
compartment. Replace the large plastic panel that was removed in step 1
and remount it using the 6 push pins.
Voila - you have
changed all the bulbs on the front of the 1999 300M.
Estimated
time:
Novice 2 hours
Advanced 1 hour
Expert 45 mins
If you found this helpful, a quick note to the author George and Anna
at [email protected] would be appreciated.
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