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2004 chevy express van heater has no high speed,and at one time fan would not shut off even with the engine turned off fan still ran and drained down the battery
I can see where it is somewhat coming from but I can't see exactly where. It looks like it is coming from the part of the motor where the fan connects. What should I do?I can see where it is somewhat coming from but I can't see exactly where. It looks like it is coming from the part of the motor where the fan connects. What should I do?
AnonymousMar 20, 2014
It drains from by where the fan is connected to the motor.It drains from by where the fan is connected to the motor.
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The rear auxiliary heater and air conditioning control replacement procedure starts with removing the HVAC control assembly bezel (trim) from the headliner. Next, the headliner must be lowered in order to access the rear of the HVAC control assembly. This requires removal of the windshield garnish molding (A-pillar trim) and upper pillar garnish molding (B-pillar trim) at a minimum. You may be able to gain the necessary access by allowing the headliner to "hang" slightly rather than removing it entirely. After this is done, the electrical connectors can be disconnected and the HVAC control assembly can be removed from the headliner. You can read more here: https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-replace-an-ac-control-module-by-spencer-clayton
have a compression test done
if the overheating is occurring at lights , high rpms with low road speeds or it stay right when travelling and it has a fan clutch ( viscous fan hub) replace the hub
That woul be a bad blower motor resistor or a bad blower motor resistor connection.Turn on the ignition switch and put the fan switch on high then pull on and wiggle the connector going to the resistor.These resistors get hot and usally melt the connector causing it to loose its contact with the prongs.The resistor is located on the passenger side mounted on the heat duct with to screws.
I can't speak to the cost, a local dealer can do that. As for the reason the fan runs on, it sounds like either a stuck power relay (location should be in the owners manual) or a bad fan speed regulator. Since the fan is stuck on high, I suspect the fan speed regulator is bad. On some cars the regulator is part of the fan assembly, and on some it's separate. Also, there is a possibility you can repair the circuit board, assuming it's something as simple as a burnt out diode. Best of luck!
Most gas injected engines run at a higher speed when started from cold....It's the cold start application working....As long as the idle speed returns to normal within a minute or two....longer when the weather is colder.....nothing to worry about
I can see where it is somewhat coming from but I can't see exactly where. It looks like it is coming from the part of the motor where the fan connects. What should I do?
It drains from by where the fan is connected to the motor.
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