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Posted on Oct 22, 2017
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I have a 1998 Toyota xl, It runs rough until warm

I have a 1998 Toyota xl, It runs rough until the engine warms up, then it runs like a champ. I had a code, it was the camshaft position sensor, this has been changed and I do not have a check engine light on. I have changed the fuel filter, plugs and wires. I have also changed the air filter. It still runs rough when it is cold. Any ideas?

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Rick M

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  • Toyota Master 4,148 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 22, 2017
Rick M
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Pretty hard to diagnose without a scan tool to check the fuel trims. rough guess is either a vacuum leak or bad coolant temp sensor. But I sure wouldn't replace either of those without seeing the results from the scan tool

5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 426 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 24, 2008

SOURCE: 1985 toyota 4x4 22re missing and rough idle

Have you pulled out the spark plugs to see if there are any tell tale signs on them.They are a good indicator of many problems that occur and can save a lot of time isolating the problem.They should all be the same colour.Is the air box and lid properly secured with no leaks or splits in the intake tube.Have you put injector cleaner in the fuel tank to clear up any possible dirty injectors.Therse a few things your problem could be including engine vacuum leak which you can find by lightly spraying carburettor cleaner around suspect places such as inlet manifold and around injector seals.

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Anonymous

  • 23 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 15, 2008

SOURCE: mercedes 190e 2.6 auto,starts fine

MAY REQUIRER THROTTLE BODY CLEAN UP,OR FUEL CLEANER IN THE SYSTEM...

Anonymous

  • 42 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 18, 2008

SOURCE: Rough idle until warm 22r

if it is a carburated engine it is probably the a.a.p. diaphragm in the carb. if you remove the air cleaner and look on the side of the carb that is towards the valve cover near the front yow will see a vacuum hose going to a cover that is fastened with 3 screws. if you pull the vacuum line off you will see that there is probably fuel being sucked into the line due to the leaking diaphragm. the vacuum source is temp controlled and cuts off when warm. but when cold sucks fuel directly into the intake. remove the 3 screws to replace the diaphragm, being carefull of the spring. good luck!

Anonymous

  • 11 Answers
  • Posted on May 20, 2009

SOURCE: when cold, it idles rough, revs high then low! After warmed up it runs fine

if it runs high when you first start it then mellows out,, theirs no problem , all of our chevys do that.... but if its sputtering or you hear a quiet popping noise check spark plugs

Anonymous

  • 90 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 01, 2009

SOURCE: 4.3 vortec runs OK cold, runs rough or dies warm

Your cylinder 4 misfire would most likely be a bad plug wire. And it is common for cars to have driveability problems with a crankshaft sensor code, esspecialy after the car has warmed up that is when you will notice the problem. The crank sensors are pretty simple to change and relativley inexpensive maybe around 40.00 for the part. If you look around the crank shaft pulley you will see a sensor with usually 2 bolts and a couple of wires attatched to it. If the vehicle gets to a point that it won't start, spin the motor over watching the tach on your dash and if it is not moving while cranking that means the sensor gave out. Good luck. swiftautorepairs.com

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1helpful
1answer

Runs rough until engine warms up

could be your temperature sensor or a vacuum leak somewhere.
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Engine cuts out only when fully warmed up. Also, starts idling very rough when fully warmed up. Also after fully warmed up it will not restart until it cools down. Definitely temperature sensitive.

two things to check. First, check the EGR valve to see if it is sticking open. this valve is not activated until the engine is warm. This valve could also have a vacuum leak in its diaphragm so check the valve out thoroughly.

Second, there is an engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor that alerts the engine computer as to when the engine is warmed up. If this sensor is faulty and stuck in the full cold mode, it will tell the computer that the engine is cold even when it is fully warmed. The computer will then use the cold engine fuel schedule which is way too much fuel for a warm engine. The engine will run too rich and sputter. In this condition, the computer will schedule too much fuel for a warm start and the engine will flood. That is why you must wait for it too cool down and "match" the faulty sensor.

Note: the ECT has two wires going to it and is dedicated to informing the engine computer. It has nothing to do with the engine temp gauge on the dash board instrument panel. The sender for the dash gauge has only one wire. The two sensors are easily confused.
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Rough idle until warm 22r

if it is a carburated engine it is probably the a.a.p. diaphragm in the carb. if you remove the air cleaner and look on the side of the carb that is towards the valve cover near the front yow will see a vacuum hose going to a cover that is fastened with 3 screws. if you pull the vacuum line off you will see that there is probably fuel being sucked into the line due to the leaking diaphragm. the vacuum source is temp controlled and cuts off when warm. but when cold sucks fuel directly into the intake. remove the 3 screws to replace the diaphragm, being carefull of the spring. good luck!
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