Engine cranks over but wont start, can hear fuel pump and have with the key on 60to64psi on fuel pressure guage have spark from coil to dis. and to plugs and have tested ing. module (good) and new cam shaft postion sensor and new crankshaft postion sensor and new fuel pump relay. maybe 60,000 miles on GM reman. long block in pickup with maybe 150,000 plus miles on truck that ran fine driving to work all week until friday when parked then on monday wont start.also tried giving a shot of starter fluid thru filter housing while cranking engine overand it seemed to try to start but not.driving me crazy hope someone can help Thanks
My truck did this after I replaced the fuel pump. Turned out to Fuel Pressure Regulator. It would crank and crank but never start. It's located underneath the black plastic manifold on the side of the injectors.
What is the outside temperature there? I have had very hard time starting my 98 chevy when temps are in the single or negative digits, especially after sitting. The battery just does not have enough cranking amps at those temps. The truck sounds like it cranks fine but when you watch the volt gauge on the dash it dips close to the red area while cranking. I have replaced my battery and my truck starts fine now. i still think I need to replace my battery cables. I would suggest cleaning cables and boosting the battery while trying to start. I know this sounds too simple but it is easy to try. The computer will not function with low voltage.
Testimonial: "Thanks for input, temps have been in the 30s&40s at this time and the battery was replaced about 4 weeks ago and the cables are good to go"
Be sure to clean between the two postive cables at the post. I once replaced a starter only to find that the new one did not work. Then took the cables apart and found the culprit to be nasty white corrosion.
How did the truck start and run before it quit? Did the engine come with upgraded MFI injectors? You can tell by looking down the throttle body. If you see plain black hard plastic fuel lines inside the plastic plenum, then these are the old style SFI. This system placed the injectors centrally in the plenum and has poppet valves on the ends of the fuel hoses to spray fuel into each cylinder. These have a tendancy to leak or stick closed. This can either flood the cylinders or cut off fuel in the case of a stuck poppet.
The upgraded MFI system places the injectors at the cylinder port and does not have poppets. You can identify this by looking down the throttlebody and seeing fuel lines with a rubber covering to protect the wires that run down to the injectors. The fuel lines on mine are white in color with grey protective covering. I highly recommend the upgrade.
Before replacing, you should definately check for injector pulse from the computer. Also look at your spark plugs for evidence of flooding, which will look wet or shiney around the center electrode insulator. Also look to see if the intake looks wet inside indicating leaking SFI.
×
Try removing hose from throttle body and pour some fuel in engine if it fires up check for injector pulse. Parts store should have an injector tester. If you have spark fuel and air it should start.
1,414 views
Usually answered in minutes!
×