Abs light stays on 1995 chevy pickup -fluid levels ok -no leaks- new front rotors and pads on front- new rear wheel cylinders and shoes on rear- visual on each brake ok- vehicle stops ok
Thanks for responding firetruckmec, yes the light was on before I replaced the front rotors and pads. Rear brakes are about a year old. Now there is also a noise and a "feel" in the truck like it has square wheels when I try to stop hard. No feel or noise until brakes are almost locked up. But, you don't feel it in the pedal it's just there. You can feel it in the whole truck if you put your hand on the dash while stopping hard. No pull - but,definately in front end.Thanks for responding firetruckmec, yes the light was on before I replaced the front rotors and pads. Rear brakes are about a year old. Now there is also a noise and a "feel" in the truck like it has square wheels when I try to stop hard. No feel or noise until brakes are almost locked up. But, you don't feel it in the pedal it's just there. You can feel it in the whole truck if you put your hand on the dash while stopping hard. No pull - but,definately in front end.
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For the time being it is best to assume the abs unit is ok - because it almost always is and is very expensive.
If it is the proportioning valve the leak will be external so there will be fluid under the car and the level in the reservoir will fall and you surely would have noticed. These too are quite reliable when they aren't seizing...
I suggest you take a look in the fluid reservoir and I wager the fluid is discoloured and there is probably a layer of black sludge at the bottom.
Excluding external leaks, a creeping brake pedal is almost always the master cylinder seals, the leak is usually internal and so the fluid just leaks back into the reservoir so there is no fluid loss...
Does the car have ABS ? And does it have an equalizer block for the 4 wheels ? It sounds like the ABS has been affected, or there is an equalizer block that is stuck on the front wheels only. Can you open the bleeder or the rear line on the master cyl and get fluid to come out by depressing the pedal ?
e-brake pedal should go farther- is either out of adjustment or cable frozen- secondly sounds like only front brakes receiving enough pressure to "activate" properly- bleed all four brakes starting rear pass,then rear drive ,then front pass, then front drive- use plenty of fluid- bleed till fluid is clean without bubbles- will that long at first- this will insure not bubbles and no moisture- if a pro valve dies,you would have more problems- pedal would be really soft,would have both a brake light and abs warning lights
ABS is anti lock braking system,which helps to stop car in various conditions.Wet/slippery etc
Sensors are located on all brakes
You need to go to your local auto electrician who will plug in scanner to locate fault
make sure the rear shoes are manually adjusted up properly ,then is still no good renew the master cylinder because the seal between the front and rear chambers could have gone ,but i do feel that you should manually adjust the rear brakes up properly,slacken handbrake cable before you do this though
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
Look at the master cylinder fluid level. If it is low, the red brake lamp will come on. Note that as the front brake pads wear, the brake fluid level will drop proportionally. If the fluid level is indeed low, you may need front brake pads, Unless you have a lot of miles on it, I doubt that you will need rear brake shoes. Also, if the fluid is low, don't add any. When you DO have to replace the pads, the additional fluid will be forced out of the cylinder and get all over your engine compartment under the master cylinder area . Brake fluid will eat the paint. Check the brake pads, replace them if the pad material is worn.
Thanks for responding firetruckmec, yes the light was on before I replaced the front rotors and pads. Rear brakes are about a year old. Now there is also a noise and a "feel" in the truck like it has square wheels when I try to stop hard. No feel or noise until brakes are almost locked up. But, you don't feel it in the pedal it's just there. You can feel it in the whole truck if you put your hand on the dash while stopping hard. No pull - but,definately in front end.
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