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Provided you have no leaks then you still have air in the system and need to bleed each wheel and the master cylinder. You may want to use a pressure bleeder to do this but you can do it the old fashion way with someone pumping up the brake and holding it when you open the wheel bleeders just make sure they do not allow the pedal to return before you get the bleeder shut.
your probably going to have to bleed the entire system.1st try & bleed the master cyl. basicly the same as you would bleed the front/rear brakes. pump pedal & hold while someone loosen the brake line on the master cyl. after m/c is bleed move to r/r,l/r,r/f,l/f wheels in that order. if you have abs brakes & you got air in the pump a scan tool may be needed to bleed properly.
Is the master cylinder good? a bad master can cause this also did you bleed the master first before bleeding at the wheel and also make sure the bleeder screw is clean, if the hose is good then theres only a few things, a bad master or a master that wasnt bleed, try bleeding the master first then try rebleeding the brakes.
well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.
If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.
Bleeding the Brake System (ABS)Auto Bleed ProcedureNOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below. NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.
You changed the master cylinder and vacuum booster and have no leaks anywhere, but did you bleed the entire brake system after you did this work? A little bit of air in any of the lines will make the brakes ineffective.
it is the same deal as brakes it is easy to do and the same things you need to cange master cylinder for the brakes is the same for this little project tools and all the master cylinder for the clutch is smaller then brakes master cylinder and only has one line going out so its a small task
Did you bleed the lines and master cyl. If you are talking about the flex lines that connect to the caliper, did you make sure that the fluid did not drain out.
If the master cyl did not empty you will just have to bleed the lines again, have someone help do do this. If you don't know how, just post it and someone will get you a nice detailed page of bleeding your lines.
Did you bench bleed the master cyl. before installing it? then when you installed the new master, did you bleed all 4 points? If yes, then check all for points for leaking caliper/s and leaking wheel cylinder/s. If the van has ABS, check the valve body for a bleeder screw and see if air bleeds out of it. If you've checked everything twice and did everything right then your new master cyl. may be defective.
the master cyl must be filled and bled before install.after installing new bled master cyl,bleed all calipers.once you are sure there is no air left in system then you will need a scan tool to perform a abs service bleed.if you do perform the abs service bleed with a scan tool the brake pedal will be soft and start to fade.
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