How to change 4wd hub actuator

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Dec 20, 2008 - 4x4 not working on 2005 F-150 ... I cut this out of the 2005 shop manual for Four Wheel Drive - Electronic ... 1998 Ford F-150 4.6L Long Box! Help 4 wheel drive not working -lights work- vacume to wheels ...
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Ford F150 4X4 Diagnosis No Tools Required - YouTube

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I have a 2005 F150 FX4 and the hubs seem to lock intermittently.... of the tire, but the driver side CV shaft remains engaged with the tire even when ... What happens when can not get INTO 4wdLights come on here the clunk have .... 1994-2015 Ford F150 5.4L & 4.6L VCT Solenoid Replacement - Duration: ...

4x4 not working - Ford F150 Forum - FordF150.net

No hubs on 2002 Chevy 2500. I'd check the front axle actuator (engages front axle when 4WD is engaged). Belive it's on the passage side axle tube of front differential. Could be wrong, but that's what it sounds like. Or the front ring/pinion is shot. They don't turn when not in 4wd.

The problem is that you have a bad vaccum hub it's located down on the back side of the spindle. Very common ford problem!

make sure its not the brakes, also check the right side noise from the front can be deceiving

CHECK FOR VACCUM AT THE HUB IF YOU HAVE VACCUM THEN ITS SOMEWHAT COMMON FOR THE LOCKING HUB TO WEAR

I had this problem too. It could be a few different things but all the same result, loss of vacuum causing the 4wd to start to engage but not completely. The teeth on the clutch in the locking hub are grinding on the spline of the cv shaft as you lose vacuum and it tries to go into 4wd which is the default if everything would fail. 1st thing could be either of the 4wd locking hubs (approx $200 ea., located on the back side of each front spindle), check them to make sure the vacuum lines on the top of it are still attached these require the brakes, tie rod and upper ball joint to be removed if replacing, 2nd is the 4wd vacuum actuator (approx. $40 located on the firewall passenger side behind the battery) Ford has replaced this part with a modified one that has a little roof on it to stop the water that drips of the hood when it rains and makes it short out, this is very easy to replace (2 nuts) and last if both the above are working just fine would be to trace all the vacuum lines for a break unfortunately it is a 6-8 foot line for all the front 4wd and it costs approx. $100 if you have to replace. Not very difficult just time consuming. Hope some or all of this helps.

Try removing the front drive shaft from the transfer case to the front differential. With the vehicle on 4 jack stands and the front drive shaft removed attempt to place the vehicle into 4 WD. You may have to start the engine if the vehicle uses a vacuum actuator module to engage the front wheels. When you get an indication that the vehicle is in 4WD try turning the front wheels by hand and see it you hear the same grinding noise .... engage the hubs and try again. Usually if the transfer case is ok then the problem is in the front differential or one of the many universal joints that connect all of the elements together. Check the U joints on the front drive shaft for play as well as the U joints on each of the front wheels.

friends are usually right but first check actuator first for free movement sometimes needs only to be lubed so actuator rod moves freely

Even though you checked the vacuum lines and found no leaks it does not mean there isn't a problem. The check valve in the line closest to the firewall actuator is probably your problem. Had the same issue replaced this line and solved it. The check valves in the vacuum lines are your best next guess.

The gear on the 4 wheel drive actuator and possibly the hub is stripped.
Remove wheel and brakes and take the four 18mm bolts out of the back and remove the cap on the end of the hub and take off a 12 mm nut. It should then come apart so you can see whats going on.