MY FOCUS ABS LIGHT STAYS ON HAD A DIAGNOSIS DONE AND HE TOLD US ABS HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR CIRCIUT FAILURE, HE ALSO SAID IT WILL COST US £600 POUNDS TO DO. SO DO I HAVE IT DONE OR WHAT.....CHEERS

If your amber ABS lamp and the red "parking brake" warning lamp illuminate together without any prior pump constantly running problem; the pump motor wires are most likely broken.
The heat shrink tubing that seals the red/black power leads to the motor may have allowed water to enter. The copper conductor turns into a powdery green copper oxide over time due to electrolysis as a small current is applied to the motor all times (even when vehicle is off). The wires will look perfectly intact on the outside even though the copper conductor has been destroyed. The associated error codes will either be C0267 or C0268.
Initial problems will be an intermittent amber ABS and red BRAKE lamp illuminating simultaneously. Over time, the lamps will stay on constantly. In any of the circumstances, you have lost your ABS at all times... even when the lamps are off during the intermittent stage of the system failure.
Dealer specifies pump assembly must be replaced. Not necessary.
The wires can be resoldered to the motor terminal block and resealed with new heat shrink tubing and sensor safe silicone. Do not remove the motor from the pump housing as it is difficult to align the eccentric cam on the motor shaft with the pump mechanism.
This is a common problem that can be solved by resoldering the pump power leads. If the pump runs all the time and the red "BRAKE" lamp has illuminated after pulling the ABS fuse or unplugging the motor; the EBCM (ABS control module) will have to be rebuilt. This can be done for $100.
Both pump motor failure and EBCM failure can be repaired without costly replacement

You need to find out what code is stored in the ABS control module, if the light is on there is a DTC an the system is disabled ! Don't know if auto part stores can pull ABS codes or not , You'll have to check it out . Personally I say take it to a ASE certified repair shop if you don't know anything about anti lock brakes !
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Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) -- The EBCM controls the system functions and detects failures.

The EBCM contains the following components:

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System Relays -- The inlet and outlet solenoid relay is energized when the ignition is ON and no ABS DTCs are present. It supplies battery positive voltage to the solenoid valves, the pump motor relay is energized and supplies battery positive voltage to the pump motor when ABS is activated.

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Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) -- The BPMV contains the hydraulic valves and pump motor that are controlled electrically by the EBCM. The BPMV uses a 4 circuit configuration with a diagonal split. The BPMV directs fluid from the reservoir of the master cylinder to the left front and right rear wheels and fluid from the other reservoir to the right front and left rear wheels. The diagonal circuits are hydraulically isolated so that a leak or malfunction in one circuit will allow continued braking ability on the other.

This system can store 10-12 DTC's for something simple as wheel speed sensors to wiring problems to a malfunction of the EBCM . Some of these problems you would need a professional type scan tool ! The antilock brake system on your vehicle is the
BOSCH 8.0 antilock braking system
The vehicle is equipped with the following braking systems:
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Antilock Brake System (ABS)

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Dynamic Rear Proportioning (DRP)

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Traction Control System (TCS) (w/NW7)

The following components are involved in the operation of the above systems:
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Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) -- The EBCM controls the system functions and detects failures.

The EBCM contains the following components:

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System Relays -- The inlet and outlet solenoid relay is energized when the ignition is ON and no ABS DTCs are present. It supplies battery positive voltage to the solenoid valves, the pump motor relay is energized and supplies battery positive voltage to the pump motor when ABS is activated.

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Brake Pressure Modulator Valve (BPMV) -- The BPMV contains the hydraulic valves and pump motor that are controlled electrically by the EBCM. The BPMV uses a 4 circuit configuration with a diagonal split. The BPMV directs fluid from the reservoir of the master cylinder to the left front and right rear wheels and fluid from the other reservoir to the right front and left rear wheels. The diagonal circuits are hydraulically isolated so that a leak or malfunction in one circuit will allow continued braking ability on the other.

Important: There is a rubber isolator located under the BPMV and on the mounting studs. The rubber isolators protect the BPMV and the EBCM from vehicle vibrations.

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The BPMV contains the following components:

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Pump Motor

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Inlet Valves (one per wheel)

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Outlet Valves (one per wheel)

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Wheel Speed Sensors (WSS) -- As the wheel spins, the wheel speed sensor produces an AC signal. The EBCM uses this alternating current signal to calculate wheel speed. The wheel speed sensors are replaceable only as part of the wheel hub and bearing assemblies.

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Traction Control Switch (w/NW7) -- The TCS is manually disabled or enabled using the traction control switch.

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Stop Lamp Switch - The EBCM uses the stop lamp switch as an indication that the brake pedal is applied

The ABS EBCM anti-lock brake module is failing causing problems with the ABS pump running constantly, also will drain your battery.

1. Remove the ABS fuse to prevent ABS motor burn out.
2. You can still drive your vehicle with the module removed.
3. We recommend covering the exposed surface of the hydraulic control unit with aluminum foil to keep out water and dirt.

Common Failures:

• ABS Pump Always Running
• Codes: C0265, C0267, C0268
• Pump Motor Circuit trouble code
• Power Relay trouble code
• Valve Relay Trouble code
• Dump Valves (solenoids) trouble codes
• No Communication
• Intermediate power loss

http://www.myairbags.com/dtc-code-c0265-abs-ebcm-light/

The ABS unit has failed and needs to be replaced.

ABS sensor in the brake hubs are bad, get a brake job.

LEARNING ABOUT YOUR BRAKE SYSTEM
The hydraulic brake booster on a late model Mark VII and early Continentals, is very different from most. It is equipped with something known as a "TEVES" brake system. I'll attempt to teach you what does what and why, so you won't spend a ton of money just because you and maybe your mechanic aren't familiar how it works. The way its always been is,..."if you don't understand it...replace the whole thing"! The problem with using this technique is, unless you want to spend $2K for the whole thing, your going to be buying a used system....which may not be a whole lot better than the one you have now.
The main parts in the system that we will discuss include an ACCUMULATOR, a HYDRAULIC PUMP, a hydraulic pump RELAY, and a PRESSURE SWITCH. These are the key players in this operation.

THE LOCATION OF THESE PARTS ARE AS FOLLOWS:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR= Underneath the brake assembly (2 pin connector) Hydraulic pump motor
RELAY = On the drivers side strut tower
PRESSURE SWITCH = 5 pin connector facing the # 7 or 8 spark plug(drivers side)
ACCUMULATOR = Round black ball on the drivers side

WHAT THESE ITEMS DO:
HYDRAULIC PUMP MOTOR is an electric hydraulic pump used to "boost" pressure for the brake assembly. This pump is $900 new!
hydraulic pump motor RELAY is just what its sounds like. It gives the hydraulic pump motor power to come on.
PRESSURE SWITCH is the "brains" in the system. It senses how much pressure is "on line", and when the system needs more pressure, it tells the relay to "power up" the hydraulic pump motor.
Another one of its jobs is to turn on the RED BRAKE LIGHT, then the ANTI-LOCK lights to alert the driver that the pressure is dangerously low. (The reason the anti-lock light comes on, is because the ABS cannot fuction if theres a problem with the manual brakes)
ACCUMULATOR stores energy or pressure like a reservoir. Its there so the hydraulic pump motor only has to come on every 3rd or 5th time. Its design is more complicated, but basicaly the same principle as an air tank on a compressor.

WHAT NORMALLY HAPPENS:
Whats usually happens is, in time, the accumulator gets weak with age and can't hold the pressure like it was designed too, and therefore, the hydraulic motor comes on everytime the brakes are applied....rather than every 3rd or 5th time. This means all these parts are working 3 or 5 times more than they were designed to. This puts an extreme amount of pressure on an already old system.
What we know from this is, the accumulator needs replacement because its what started all this, but now the pressure switch and relay needs replacement also because it has worked it to *****.
NOTE: always replace the relay when replacing the pressure switch. The relay came on everytime the pressure switch told it too, so if ones worn out....the others not far behind!

told, or did.?
why not do as told.?
this post is confusing, sorry
ESP/ABS is a very complex system.
why are you attempting to out guess such a system.
let them fix it.
or buy a car with no ESP. or ABS.

good luck keeping any chapter 11 company car going
some parts that forever to get for this underdog.

I have one, but when it gets harder, off a cliff it goes
or sell it, busted.
I can fix most things, but not with out parts.

back to your high tech magic like brakes.
1: let them fix it
2: DIY

to DIY you need the special and expensive scan tool.
and the expensive FSM (factory serv. man.)
or go to alldata d o t com and read it all there.
all the steps to diagnosis this is there and in the book.
no need to guess, or wonder its all there.
(assumes you read up on ABS first, not withstanding)

cheers and good luck with ABS.
PS:
why not clean all the wheel sensors first. why not?'

when the ABS light stays on it means there is a fault present in the ABS system and the ABS has been disabled, as long as the light is on u just have regular brakes with no ABS, there are many thinbgs that can turn the light on, most common is one of the wheel speed sensors is defective, since these sensors are about $75-100 each and there are 4 of them guessing is a poor idea, so what u need to do is have the ABS systwem tested, there will be a fault code present to help narrow down the defective part or wiring.

i would say have your abs system bled. this only requires a computer and someone who knows how to use it. after bleeding the abs then the rest of the system should be bled. if you had a bad secer it would set what is known as a hard code and the light would always stay on.

I do not know anywhere that can repair the module, and yes one from a salvage yard is a good idea.