At Fixya.com, our trusted experts are meticulously vetted and possess extensive experience in their respective fields. Backed by a community of knowledgeable professionals, our platform ensures that the solutions provided are thoroughly researched and validated.
After removing the wheel, caliper, pads and caliper bracket, do you have to remove the axle nut first before trying to remove the rotor and just work on breaking the rotor free from the hub?
Soounds like you have everything that you need to have off, off inluding those stupid little clips the put on the studs. after that, its hammer time. be sure to alternate side. might remove all the rust and dirt from the part of the axle you can see where the rotor has to slip over.
Lots of good penitrating oil and let it soak for a while always helps...
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Remove fluid from the reservoir until the level is lower then half way between the MAX and MIN levels.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Install 2 wheel nuts to secure the rotor on the hub.
Remove the bottom brake caliper pin bolt.
Pivot the brake caliper body upward and secure out of the way. Do NOT disconnect the hydraulic brake flexible hose from the caliper.
Compress the piston back into the bore using a C-clamp.
Figure of brake assembly with caliper raised showing brake pads in mounting bracket
Remove the inboard and outboard brake pads from the brake caliper bracket.
To Install:
Install the brake pad retainers and both brake pads into the caliper bracket.
Pivot the brake caliper down over the brake pads and into the brake caliper bracket. Insert the lower brake caliper pin bolt and torque bolt to 70 ft-lb. (95 Nm).
Reinstall the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
Refill the master cylinder. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the pads against the rotor.
Check the master cylinder level and add fluid as necessary.
Inspect the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. Remove fluid from the reservoir until the level is lower then half way between the MAX and MIN levels.
Remove the tire and wheel assembly.
Install 2 wheel nuts to secure the rotor on the hub.
Remove the upper caliper mounting bolt.
Pivot the caliper down to access the pads.
Remove the inboard and outboard pads from the caliper bracket.
Remove the brake pad clips from the caliper bracket.
Compress the piston back into the bore using a C-clamp and the old inner pad.
To Install:
Install new brake clips in the caliper bracket.
Install the inboard and outboard pads in the caliper bracket.
Pivot the caliper up over the pads.
Reinstall the upper mounting bolt and tighten to 32 ft. lbs. (44 Nm).
Remove the 2 wheel nuts securing the rotor.
Reinstall the tire and wheel assembly.
Refill the master cylinder. Pump the brake pedal several times to seat the pads against the rotor.
Check the master cylinder level and add fluid as necessary.
You will have to remove the wheel,of course,remove the brake caliper,pads,and the brake caliper bracket,then the rotor,and any brackets holding the brake hose to get it out of the way.Then remove the large nut on the axle,and remove all the bolts holing the bearing assembly on the spindle,and tap it out ward,and make sure the axle stays put,do not let the axle come outward with the bearing,using a two by four to tap the axle inward toward the axle while removing the bearing assembly.If this was at all helpful,please rate,thank you.
not that hard depending on type of vehicle u drive -front wheel=4x4=all wheel etc--need to remove brake caliper and caliper bracket and rotor unplug abs if front wheel drive can loosen center hub nut -than remove bolts at rear of brake plate tap hub nut to loosen off axle remove nut remove hub this is a basic example on removal u didnt state what vehicle u were removing hub
Hello, to replace the rear brake pads follow the following steps:
1. Lift the Chevy Impala with the jack and place it on jack stands.
2. Remove the wheels with a lug-nut wrench and set them aside. The lug-nut wrench can be found in the trunk of your Chevy Impala.
3. Remove the caliper with a ratchet and use a bungee cord to hang the caliper. Do not let the caliper hang from the brake hose, as the hose might break and cause fluid to leak.
4. Remove the brake caliper bracket from the steering knuckle with a ratchet. Set it aside.
5. Remove the break rotor from the hub. The rotor might require force to be removed; if it does, use a hammer to hit the rotor in the center, where the lug studs are located. Take care not to hit the studs.
6. Remove the new rotor from its packaging and use brake cleaner to remove the grease from the rotor. Grease is applied on the rotor in the factory to inhibit rust during storage.
7. Install the new rotor onto the hub.
8. Install the caliper bracket with new brake pads onto the rotor and fasten it to the steering knuckle. Use a ratchet to tighten the bolts.
9. Open the master cylinder reservoir so you don't break a seal while compressing the brake caliper.
10. Compress the brake caliper with a C-clamp, so that the caliper can fit over the new brake pads. Install the caliper by securing it to the brake caliper bracket with a ratchet.
Raise vehicle and remove wheels. Disconnect brakeli ne from caliper (if necessary). Remove caliper.
On models with free wheeling hub, set control handl e to FREE position. On all models, remove hub cover, bolt/washer and hub body. Use tapered punch to open slits of conical washers. Remove axle shaft
snap ring (if equipped).
Straighten tabs of outer lock washer. Using Spindle Socket (09607-60020), remove lock nut, lock washer
and adjusting nut. Remove thrust washer and outer b earing. Remove axle hub and rotor. Remove grease se al and inner bearing. Press hub bolts out of axle hub. Remove retaining bolts, and separate rotor from hu b.
If wheel and calipers are off, and no retainers on studs, spray some penetrating lube in center of hub where rotor slides over hub shoulder. Let it sit for a minute or two, then place a block of wood against outside edge of rotor and hit block with a hammer. May have to give it a good hit, around perimeter in a few spots to get it to jar loose in center at hub. Usually just rusted. Better if you have a big rubber mallet, and hit hard all around outside area of rotor, but block of wood will do the job as well.
On most camries you need to remove the wheels, then brake pads, and the
calipers. Most camries do not use any screws to hold the rotors, thus when you
remove the calipers you should be able to remove rotors without problems.
you have to raise vechicle.use jack stands.block rear wheels.apply parking brake.when loosen axle nut.its more easier to leave wheel on.let vechicle weight hold wheel from turning while you loosen axle nut.you need to get a 1/2 break bar or large ratchett wrench with a deep socket .you need to buy socket use to remove axle nut a regular socket would probably break.when you remove the axle nut.remove brake caliper and brake pads.set them aside dont disconnect brake caliper.get a piece of wire to hang it out the way.dont use brake hose.could damage it. remove brake caliper support bracket then the rotor.get a hub removing tool remove hub.then loosen hub and bearings bolts .then remove shield hub and bearings assembly with O-ring.disconnect ball joint from steering knuckle using the proper tool.remove the halfshaft assembly and tap the seal from the steering knuckle.remove the steering knuckle from the hub.now that drive axle out the way.get the seal removing tool.its a flat tool with two hooks on it.to pry seal out transmission.or you can use a small chisel to clapse the seal but be careful dont damage the seal housing.when installing new seal coat it with transmission fluid.drive it in using a large socket.if you are reusing same axle replace circlip on the end of it.now putting back together.install a new hub and bearing seal in the steering knuckle with a seal installer tool .install steering knuckle to the strut.lubricate the hub and bearings with grease.install halfshaft.connect ball joint to the steering knuckle .install a new O-ring around the hub and bearing assembly.install hub and bearing assembly into the steering knuckle.tighten bolts to 75 ft lbs.install rotor then brake caliper support bracket bolts 120 to148 ft lbs.this is mounting bracket bolts only not the caliper bolts to brake shoes.put brake shoes and caliper back on torque 38 ft lbs.install shaft washer the axle nut to 180 ft lbs.tighten much as you can.before setting car on ground.to torque it to 180 ft lbs place car wheel back on set it down so the car weight keep wheel from turning.i hope this information works out for you good luck.and work safe.
Jack up vehicle and support with jack stands Take off wheel remove brake caliper remove caliper bracket remove rotor remove axle retaining nut cotter pin remove axle retaining nut remove axle from output flange pull axle out of vehicle hub and bearing assembly held in by 4 bolts
installation is reverse of removal. You will need to find out the torque specs for the axle retaining nut.
×