Remove the interior door trim - Remove inner handle surround, slide out
wood, remove screws including the one hiding under the rubber air
trunking. Remove small middle section (inside pull-handle) to reveal
crosshead screw - remove. Also remove screw in red kerb light.
The window lift motor needs removing, but first use plenty of tape to
hold the window to the top of the door frame to prevent the glass
falling down.
Undo the four nuts that hold the lift motor (no need to unbolt the
bottom channel runner).
Undo the connectors, and ease down and out the motor.
Remove the four Torx-headed bolts holding the window frame, and remove a
fifth inside the door at the bottom of the front frame. (Don't worry -
the frame will not drop down)
Force the frame up so that the window is clear of the weather seal (a
bit of a struggle). Untape the glass, and remove. Remove frame.
to adjust the handle
There's a little gray rectangle in the interior door handle. Push up and
it will pop out revealing a screw. There's also a screw behind the
puddle lamp (the little red lamp on the door interior, near the rear).
It's sort of scary, but take a large flathead screwdriver, hold it
horizontally, insert it in the crevice between the puddle lamp and the
door and pry it off (be sure to hold your tongue in just the right
position or you'll break the plastic).
After all the screws are out, just pull the door off gently from the
edges, there are plastic 'clips' that hold the door on - not to worry,
you'll see.
Inside the door you can see the door handle assembly. There is also a
turnbuckle which can adjust the length of the arm that connects the door
handle and the latch. The bad news is, you have to take the outside
handle off to adjust this turnbuckle. It's more time consuming than it
is difficult.
Anyway, there are four screws on the bracket that hold the outside
handle on.
I found that a pair of simple pliers was the best method for loosening
them.
BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THEM INTO THE DOOR ONCE THEY ARE LOOSENED!
Adjusting the turnbuckles is very important and they need to be adjusted
to completely eliminate all free play from the external handles when
the doors are closed but unlocked.
The standard Jaguar tool kit includes the right open jaw spanners to do
the job. Other very small 8 & 7 mm open jaw spanners would also be
OK. The front doors are no problem at all; the rears are difficult but
possible.
The job can be made a little easier by buying a small 8 mm open jaw and
heating and bending the shank about 30 degrees, as near as possible to
the jaws and in the flat plane.
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