SOURCE: Rough idle until warm
HMM, ya ont get a code unless ya figure out how to read the morse code values the OB1's use. Hmm sputters, and rough idle can be from poor air circulation, as well fuel delivery.
first air.......inspect and clean your vacuum hoses, cracks and leaks will most notably ruin your day. as well as the performance of your ride. check the seal for your intake hose around the throttle body, then clean the ports in and around your throttle body as well. Bad air supply, poor idle.. follow me..
second is fuel delivery. Your getting your gas, thats evident, but are you getting the required amount. hard to guage unless you disconnect a line and test its pressure. so lets USE the KISS method.. KEEPING IT SIMPLE STUPID
first, check and or replace your fuel pressure regulator...
second, inspect condition of your fuel filter.
thrid, and certianly the last thing, your fuel pump. go in that order. or your gonna seriously annoy yourself when a 5 dollar fix turns into a 3-400 dollar fix.
SOURCE: 01 dodge running rough at idle and poor driving performance
did u try turning the distributor??? if u did u need to take it to a shop and have the cam sync reset with a scanner,turning the distributor on those engines DOES NOT change timing.how many miles on this truck?? over time the dist. gear weares and it can also change the cam sync,also look at the little vacuum port on the passenger side of the intake manifold and see if the rubber plug or hose is missing off of it,also does this truck consume oil?? if it does it could also be your problem,a pan on the bottom of the intake manifold leaks and that could cause yur problem also,to test for that simply put your thumbs over the holes in the valve covers with it running..if it sucks yur thumbs in, that gasket needs to be replaced and it will also cut down or stop your oil use,hope this helps
SOURCE: running rough, spark plugs, distributor cap, rotor
First thing you need to know is which cylinders are missing. Then, don't forget there is an engine beneath the electronics. Do a quick test with a vacuum gauge and do a compression test. Check the distributor shaft for side play. If everything checks out good, then do electronic component testing. have a code check run (many parts stores do this free) and get a chiltons or haynes manual and follow test procedures in there.
I refrain from giving repair suggestions with problems like yours because people keep changing instead of testing parts. When I work on my vehicles or other peoples cars, I do testing to avoid buying expensive parts that most times won't correct the problem. At this point the most I'd suggest is to clean the mass air flow sensor wires with a Q-tip and carb cleaner...that often helps and is free. If you run into a problem with whatever you find, ask and I'll try to help.
good luck
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