I just replaced the front brake calipers on my 2002 olds alero and am attempting to bleed the brakes per a Chilton manual. I have gone around several times but the brake pedal is still spongey even though it appears all the air is out of the lines. I have bled lots of conventional vehicles but this is my first crack at one with abs. Help!

If your brake pads are worn excessively replace pads flush hydraulic fluid completely the leak should disappear if not replace calipers as needed to seal system as per manufacturer's specifications..... see youtube for videos on bleeding and replacement of any and all brake components rebuilding calipers ect ect ect search for your year make and model should be several videos of each operation https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3itoBto610 Silver Shadow Bleeding Brakes Part 1 of 2

Its possible it could be the master cylinder itself, It should always push fluid. Does the car have ABS? It could also be inside the ABS module if it does. I am familiar with brake systems and diagnostics, just not familiar with this year olds whether it has abs or not.

Bleed all of your brake lines.

The first thing is to make sure the caliper piston is all the way in, the caliper then slides over the brake pads and bolts on, make sure you have the correct caliper on the right side, the way to know this is when caliper is on the little bleeder screw should be on the top, if it is on the bottom then wrong caliper, try the other one,

After caliper is on you will then need to bleed the brake system,
This all depends on what happened, if the brake fluid did not all leak out and caliper was just bad then before removing brake hose off old caliper pinch rubber brake line with a pair of needle nose grips or there is a line crip tool that crips hose to avoid fluid from leaking out. this makes bleeding easier , other wise you will need to make sure fluid is full and start at the right rear wheel bleeding and move to left rear then right frt and last left front, you will need to keep an eye on the level of brake fluid and add as need to keep it from going empty,
you will need some one to pump and hold brake while you bleed them, pump pedal three times and hold down while you open bleeder screw, this is to be done to every wheel about four to five time to make sure all air is out . good day. note if pedal feels low bleed again wont hurt anything just a little more fluid lost.

Your master cylinder seals could be by- passing internally or it is not being bled right.
Try one of those self bleeder kits.Have a clear hose installed on the bleed nipple tightly and have it immersed in brake fluid in a jar -loosen nipple and slowly press the pedal till you see no bubbles in the hose then tighten nipple.ps- start from the furtherest wheel.

Remove the lower brake caliper mounting bolt holding the brake caliper to the caliper bracket with a socket wrench. Pivot the bottom of the caliper upward away from the bracket to access the brake pads. good-day!

TOOLS YOU NEED TO REPLACE FRONT BRAKES YOU NEED A FLOOR JACK AND JACK STANDS.YOU NEED C - CLAMP TO COMPRESS CALIPER PISTON IN ITS BORE. SO THE BRAKE SHOES IN CALIPER WILL FIT OVER THE DISC OR ROTOR.YOU NEED A SIPHON OR LARGE SYRINGE TO REMOVE A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER RESERVOIR SO WHEN YOU COMPRESS CALIPER PISTON BRAKE FLUID WONT SPILL OVER MAKE A MESS POSSIBLE DAMAGE CAR PAINT.SHOULD AVOID GET IT ON YOUR HANDS ALSO.YOU NEED A 3/8 RATCHET AND SOCKET SET.ITS ALSO GOOD TO HAVE A HAYNES OR CHILTON REPAIR MANUAL.IT WILL GUIDE YOU THROUGH THE PROCESS.BESURE WHEN YOU FINISH PUTTING ON BRAKE PADS.PUMP UP BRAKES WITH BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL THEY ARE FIRM.MAKE SURE YOU PUT BACK ON MASTER CYLINDER COVER BEFORE PUMPING UP BRAKES.AFTER PUMPING UP BRAKES TO SEAT BRAKE PADS AGAINST ROTOR CHECK BRAKE FLUID LEVEL.

easiest way to start to diagnose ur problem would be to bleed lines-start with the furthest passenger side rear have someone help and pump up brake pedal -[observe brake to see if caliper moves if no start bleeding] and hold while u open bleeder if no pressure and caliper not moving follow the brake line and try bleeding at connections -regulator,abs,master cylinder till u get fluid to bleed out--if u let the master cylinder get to low before u did ur brake job then bleed that first and then work ur way from back to front -the connection or component where u get fluid and there is none after should be repaired or replaced sometimes debris [rubber metal filing] get in line and blocks valves

Have someone pump the brakes till they can't pump, hold pedal in and bleed them. Repeat over and over till you have brakes

groan......master cylinder not brakes and rotors and what not. hopefully you kept all of you old stuff because there was probably nothing wrong with it. also, make sure that you do a realy good job bleading you break = air will cause the pedal to go down to the floor. also if you change the master cylinder, that you try and bleed most of the air out before you install it into your vehicle