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Posted on Apr 04, 2010
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Hot alternator alternator gets hot after ten minutes of motor running. I have replaced the battery and alternator already

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  • Master 1,016 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2010
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Joined: Apr 02, 2010
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Hi,
There are 3 reasons this will be happening:

  1. There is a massive amount of current draw from the battery which is causing the alternator to run at a constant maximum charge rate. So look for any equipment you may have running on your truck - e.g large stereo system/amplifiers that they are not putting too much load on the battery.
  2. If you have and external regulator then the regulator needs to be replaced as it is causing the alternator to charge at maximum output.
  3. Make sure that if it is close to an exhaust manifold that the heat shield is back in place, heat coming from the exhaust manifold can also cause this problem.
Hope this helps you out, let me know how you get on.

Jason

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How do you tell if it needs charged or not?

Hi Kelly, A fully charged battery is 12.4 to 12.6. and when the motors running it's 14.3 to 14.6... Three reasons your battery is flat (isn't charging), You have a faulty battery, A power drain or you have a faulty alternator... Clean your battery terminals and If you don't have a multimeter then Try jump starting your flat battery and driving your car for at least ten minutes then turned the motor off and try starting it WITHOUT jump start, If the battery's still flat then it's the battery, If your car starts straight away but won't start the next day then you have a power drain... If you jump start your flat battery and go for a ten minute drive but during that drive the motor dies without turning off the key then it's the alternator....
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New batterey an new alternator still dies when i unhook pos cable

Where both rebuilt alternators any good
& retested at store?

Your explaining a constant voltage drop,
once the battery is hooked up.

How about the ignition switch?
Does that have anything to do with
the regulator control in alternator?

You haven't said you have 14 plus volts
with motor running,so basically you don't
have an alternator charging your new battery
& the ignition currant, even without the lights on,
is running down the battery

All I said is what you already know

I'm is missing something?

Don't unhook any battery cables with
the motor running,were not living in the 1960's

Those type tests will ruin many things on newer
vehicles, than yours,loose that practice & also avoid
jump starting any vehicle from 1996 on
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Hi,
I would suspect the alternator also, but I would check the recharge voltage before taking it off. You will require a digital multimeter. If you dont have one, you can get a cheap one at WalMart for about $12. With engine running, multimeter set to 20 volts DC, hold red lead to POS and black lead to NEG on battery. Your voltage reading should be 13.6-14.4 volts. Lower than 13 volts, you are not recharging correctly, but this could also be bad or corroded wiring, so check the voltage from the large wire (red lead) on back of alternator to ground. (Negative on battery and then to alternator to bracket bolt at alternator). If you get a good reading of 13.6-14.4 volts, could be a bad battery cable or corroded / loose connection in wiring. If your alternator checks OK, your battery may be failing. You can have it load tested free at Autozone and WalMart. Just because a battery reads 12+ volts, does not mean it can hold a charge with enough amperage to start your motor for an extended period of time. Running your battery very low or dead can cause it to fail like that. Also, batteries are usually due for replacement at 3-5 year intervals. They dont last forever.
Well, run some checks and let us know how you do. If you cant isolate the problem using those checks, reply and we can try a different route.
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