2000 Ford Ranger SuperCab Logo
Posted on Apr 14, 2010
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CHIRPING NOISE FROM TOP BACK OF ENGINE IT APPEARS CAS SENSOR IS BAD

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  • Expert 92 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 15, 2010
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Joined: Apr 01, 2010
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The camshaft position sensor and syncro are located on the back of the engine and will sqeek. The syncronizer sits in the engine and is run by the camshaft. the camshaft position sensor sits on top of the syncro and is held down by 2 7/32" screws. If you remove the camshaft position sensor from the top of the syncro and put about 3-5 drops of motor oil in the syncro you may fix your squeek. The syncronizer shaft that goes into the engine will dry out and loose its lubrication causing a squeek/chirp.
I have done this to a few vehicles and had great success.
Hope this helps

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How do I line up my cas sensor on my ca18det properly? And if it's out by much would that cause my car to splutter when driving?

Crank angle sensor =CAS DTC code 11 .
or
Cam angle sensor = CAS s work best. for sure.
i think this engine it is both !
there is no distributor it has 4 COPs coil over plug
and 1 ignitor module l , that nissan calls the power transistor pack. or PTU, the CAS on this car is really 2 sensors in one.
1 for cam angle and TDC (its a bit sloppy but back then no OBD2 rule to kill this idea)
they call it the crank sensor but is connect to the cam.

what car, what year, ? what country?


and sputter yes.
why not post exact year and car body mode.
or do like we all do
and log in and read the CAS timing , on your car.
alldata.com or buy the FSM.


here is the lest of cars using this engine.
The 1.8 L CA18DET was the last version of the CA engine to be released. It produces 167 hp (124 kW) and 166 lb·ft (228 Nm). It received a brand new DOHC aluminum head with 16 valves. The turbocharger was also upgraded to a Garrett T25 (.48 A/R) unit for increased flow capacity, and as such, was fitted with an intercooler to help prevent the onset of pre-ignition and/or detonation. Fuel was delivered via Multiport Fuel Injection. Bore is 83 mm (3.3 in), and stroke is 83.6 mm (3.29 in). An electronically controlled fuel injection system was used with 370cc injectors.
It was used in the following vehicles:
we run a 200sx in South America. Custom Turbo. ECU and all.

Our engine CAS sensor, has slots see them?
http://i177.photobucket.com/albums/w218/kartguy3/DSCF1057.jpg
see it.

This engine has no timing freeze DLC (check-conn)like most engine.
so.
hot normal idle speed, set it to FACTORY spec. 15deg. BTDC
do not guess. the ECU hates that. it assumes it is correct
and if not, will mess up big time. Set it to spec. and LEAVE IT.

if you dont have an FSM or a book showiing how to set timing
ask for one, buy one, or google for it.

if a turbo, and you guess, 4 cracked pistons is your future.
here is the fRee FSM
see page EC22 for spark timing.
http://pdf.textfiles.com/manuals/AUTOMOBILE/NISSAN/misc/

down load the zip extract it the PDF is the shop manual.

did you run the ECU diagnostics, yet?, RTM.?
for IS the Check engine lamp glowing running?

toy and nissan have the best FSM , of all.
very BIG on diagnosis, unlike USA cars.
the ECU has switch see that?
and if a crank or cam sensor misfires, it will tell you it did.
I'm sure.
the ECU has 5 modes of diagnosis. a very nice ECU.
page 186

Now the real TOPIC :
Now MISFIRE

Misfire is 50 reasons or just 3, (micro, and macro viewed logically
1: bad engine , low compression on any cylinder or all (timing belt slip is all) 150 PSI is minimum. for me. RTM
2: bad /weak/timed wrong, spark. (cas set wrong) test spark on all cylinders. and set the timing, if found way off the cam belt slipped)
never doing a 60,000 mile tune? duh factor 1?
3: bad fueling. too rich turns spark plugs (new?) black. and misfires.
lean fueling causes, bogging and lost engine power.
flooding can be caused by may things, it is , ask how to find this easy.

misfire causes the engine to shake does it?

ever consider a new cam timing belt, or do you want to risk it snapping or slipping?
all Nissans are interference engine. if the belt slips BAM, kiss off a nice motor.
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I will tell you what I would do.
I looked up the part you speak of on the internet, and found it to be inexpensive.
Hence and therefore, I would purchase one and toss it into the glove box, for a spare.
I would also carry along the necessary tools to change it out.
I have had a few cars that have developed a chirp/squeak like yours had, and have found the same as you did.
Sometimes that is all that is needed, sometimes the noise returns.
God bless your efforts.
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