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get complete guide on whether to repair or not, service it, and how to repair etc, along with wiring diagrams, electrical diagrams, torque specs, error codes, everything.
SOURCE: rough idle and lopes
Those 4.3L's have a Central Port Fuel Injection system with one injector in the middle of the intake under the plenum, they are good for either the fuel pressure regulator or the plastic lines (that are inside the intake that feed the injector) leaking inside and flooding the intake with fuel. The best way to tell is to take the plenum off and thurn the key to prime the fuel pump and watch for leaks.
SOURCE: won't idle
Try cleaning the throttle plate with carb cleaner and a toothbrush, be sure to clean the edges.
SOURCE: Failing NJ State Inspection for Low Idle Emissions
Based on what your write up says it would have to be a timing issue or Mass Air flow Sensor (MAF) .If your getting 20 HG's at idle steady there can't be a vacuum leak.Your a little on the rich side so its probably a dirty MAF.Try cleaning it first and see what you get . If that doesn't work then reset timing.
Keep me posted on this .
SOURCE: COLD RUNNING PROBLEM...NO POWER COLD...RUNS GOOD
wow you love spending money for nothing ,ask a local mechanic where the engine temperature sensor is located for the automatic choke and change it as i dont think its working correctly so mixture is weak hence the loss of power till engine warms up ,remember this vehicle is well past its sell by date so it may also pay to do a compression check as it could also be low on compression and its needs the valves grinding in and maybe new piston rings ,anothe pssibility is the head gasket it could be failing and blowing between two pistons and sealing up a bit when it warms up ?? who knows as their too many weird and wonderful faults with a motor vehicle .But i would go for the autochoke temperature sensor first where ever its located as iam a europeon mechanic and never seen this vehicle except on the TV so please forgive my ignorance of component location .
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