The drivers side rear rim keeps getting hot even after replacing the router, caliber, emergency brake pads and the hub. What can be going on?

You will need a special tool for the back brakes,Autozone will loan it to you for 60 bucks,you will get it back when you return,I used it.I replaced brake pads front and back and both back rotors.The driver side rear had metal on metal,all disc brakes,brake pads on that rear side were completely worn down to metal,the driver side was like new,kept wondering why,replaced both rear rotors,put back together,then then I noticed where brake line hose went into brake caliber was leaking,so that caused the side with new like brake pads not to be gripping disc putting all brake pressure of that one side,so the copper fitting their was bad,put new one on and leak stopped.

wonder if the rotors are too slim. If this happens the brakes get too hot as the rotor radiates away the heat. If too hot the brakes could wear out faster.

pull off wheel and check brake pads low,caliper sticking ,or debris -if brakes look good than check hub-wheel bearing----- may be going bad

Nothing to do with fuel economy my friend,but that black soot is brake dust from your front pads.THAT's whats doing MOST of your braking.The front.YOUR problem,believe meit is YOU,is the fact that you do not use the emergency brake ever.Each time you put that emergency brake on,it adjusts the rear brake up a bit more,until eventually you have even braking force all around.Use the emergency brake EVERY time you park the car and get out.Eventually you'll notice that the black soot is minimal,but it will always be there a bit.Just keep the rear brakes adjusted up by using the e-brake a lot when stopped.That's also why the front pads ALWAYS wear out and back are still fine.NO emergency brake use.Rigger

Heres what you will need to do this type of job. First you will need a rachet and metric sockets with an extention if available. Also you will need somthing to press the caliber piston back into place a special tool or some kind of press would work . A plastic auto hammer to knock the rotors loose, somtimes they can be difficult to remove. Pliers would be needed as well as a screw driver to help mount the caliber or pads back into place. One thing to keep in mind is that if you indeed are replacing the rear rotors, it is recommended to get new pads as well. This is for the reason that old pads will cause break sqealing since they are not surfaced perfectly straight for the new rotor. Step one will be to get the caliber of the vehicle so if there is a medal clip on one of the studs just use the pliers to rip it off. Then use the rachet to remove two bolts holding the caliber. After you remove those bolts, there should be another two bolts holding the caliber bracket as well, do the same procedure in removing those. IMPORTANT do not let the caliber hang by the brake cable, put it on a stand or in a location where it is not free fall hanging. Now you should just have the rotor left, try pulling on it to see if it breaks loose, if not then use your plastic hammer to bang in the back of the rotor and knock it loose that way. If I remember correclty those rear rotors will have brake shoes underneath. Do not wory about those they are there for your emergency brakes. Now put the new rotor on and make sure it is securley installed on the wheel hub. Install you'r bracket first, then begine to install your caliber back into place. NOTE the caliber may not install to easy onto the rotor for the reason that you will need to compress the piston inside with either the special tool or some type of press. If you compress it and you hear brake fluid dripping down, it is nothing to worry about, its just the fluid being pushed back by pressure. Install the caliber and pads the same way as removal paying close attention to the other side if your not sure of how the originally were installed. When all this is finished look up brake bleading on YOUTUBE.com to accurately bleed your brakes and remove any air inside that may cause spongy or moister inside your brake lines.

Hope this Helps!

The wheel bearings are going out. Most of the time you can replace them easily but some newer vehicles like yours might have a sealed hub in which you must replace the entire assembly

Rear disc brake pads offer better performance and are not as affected by moisture like conventional brake shoe style brakes are. Rear disc brakes are similar to front disc brakes. The main difference is that rear disc brake systems must incorporate the emergency brake system. There are two methods widely used for the emergency brake with rear disc systems. The first system is a brake shoe inside the brake disc that is actuated by the emergency brake lever. The second is a screw style actuator inside the brake caliper. When activated the brake pads are forced into the brake disc and held tightly by the emergency brake lever.
READ COMPLETELY BEFORE STARTING
Step 1 - Identify Rear Disc Brake Components
Rear disc brake assembly includes; rear brake disc, rear brake pads, brake caliper mount and a caliper mounting screw. (Note: Some vehicles do not have the rotor mounting screw.)
Step 2 - Removing the Rear Brake Caliper Mount Bolts
To replace rear brake pads and rotors the rear brake caliper needs to be removed. First loosen the rear brake caliper mount bolts and remove them. Turn counter clockwise.
Step 3 - Lift Rear Brake Caliper from The Caliper Mount
After the caliper mount bolts have been removed, gently lift the brake caliper from the caliper mount. Inspect the caliper slides; they should move freely in the caliper mount. Remove rear brake pads and hardware.

Step 4 - Removing Caliper Mount Bolts
With a socket wrench or other appropriate removal tool, loosen the rear brake caliper mounting bolts. Remove bolts and lift the caliper mount and remove it from the vehicle. Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole. Tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub holding on tightly, using both hands. You do not want to drop the rotor.

Step 5 - Removing Rear Brake Rotor
Remove the retaining screw from the disc mounting hole, tap the rotor gently to release any rust that has accumulated between the rotor and bearing hub. Lift brake rotor from wheel hub, hold on using both hands and do not drop.

Step 6 - Install New Brake Rotor
Check the new rotor against the old brake rotor to make sure they are the same size. Clean the mating surface on the wheel hub before the new brake rotor is installed. Reinstall rotor retainer screw.
Step 7 - Reset Rear Brake Caliper
Before new brake pads can be installed, the rear brake caliper must be reset. The reset tool winds the piston back into position so the new brake pads will fit. This style of brake caliper will not compress with a clamp tool; it can only be reset with the proper reset tool.
Step 8 - Reinstall Rear Caliper Mount and Install New Rear Brake Pads
After the caliper has been reset, reinstall caliper mounting bolts and make sure the bolts are tight. Then match up the old brake pads to the new brake pads. They should be exactly the same except, of course; the old ones will be worn out. Check the new brake pads for proper fit and install any brake hardware that is required.
Step 9 - Remount Rear Brake Caliper
Reinstall the brake caliper, align brake pad hardware and reinstall caliper mounting bolts. (Note: align the rear peg of the brake pad to the groove in the caliper piston.) Recheck and retighten all caliper and caliper mount bolts. Bleed brake system to relieve any air in the system. Before driving the vehicle, push the brake pedal down and let it up slowly. This operation forces the brake pads to travel to the brake rotors. DO NOT DRIVE VEHICLE until proper brake pedal operation resumes. When test driving vehicle listen for any unusual noises during the operation of the brakes.
WARNING! Always have the vehicle under inspection on level ground, in park with the emergency brake on. Always wear protective eyewear, gloves and necessary clothing before inspection or work begins. Never crank an engine over when anyone is near the battery or engine. Always have an operational fire extinguisher close by, obey all first aid instructions in the event of an injury. Never stand in front or behind a vehicle when cranked over or running. When engine is cranked over keep hands and clothing away from rotating components. Never move a car without proper brake pedal operation.

Sounds like your brakes or worned down,metal to metal,need to replace these ,or you will need new rotors.

It's sad that the dealer cannot or will not solve this problem. Sounds like they want to keep having you spend money on pads and rotors in stead of fixing the problem. I would look for a shop that has better experience. It doesn't have to be a dealer shop to find the best people.
Well, in most cases like this, the caliber 80% to blame. 20% is the hardware ( springs and clips ). The hardware helps keep the shoes in place and helps relieve pressure/sticking when brakes are not in use.
The best solution would be to replace calibers and hardware on both sides. Doing both sides prevent from one side being stronger or weaker than the other. Therefore, one side will not wear out faster than the other.

crawl underneath the front and look at the caliper if it has a duel piston caliper you will see 2 circles about 3 inches across and if it is a single piston caliper it will only have one of these circles in the middle this iswhere the pistons are. yes those pads are suitable. As for bleeding the brakes you need to start at the passengers side rear wheel and bleed it first then go to the drivers side rear wheel then go to the passengers side front wheel and then finally the drivers side front wheel. If you are only replacing the brake pads and shoes then you don't need to bleed the brakes. If you are bleeding the brakes then you will want to be sure to top up the brake fluid as you are doing thebleeding process as if you don't you will end up having to start all over again. as for special tools you may need a 3/8 hex bit and a 8 inch " C " clamp to compress the calipers after you remove the brake pads. If you are replacing the rotors you may require a special socket fo dis-assebleing and re-assembly of the front hubs.