I noticed 1broken wire for reverse light under jeep next to tranny not connected. the other is connnected to bolt on tranny, where does the broken wire connects, i dont have reverse brake light.

do you have a voltage meter, reversing is independent line, ignition to fuse to switch to light, follow the main wire to the rear lights you may find there is a brake in the wire, mostly go were there is a rubber joint covering or behind the seats at rear. would check to see if its live, reversing switch side is earth state. so check you have a good earth. some models had an extra earthing wire from the gear box to the shell of the underneath.

fuse 23 blown? is car battery discharged? (other symptoms not stated ?)
my guess is you can't see the horn, and the bolt?.
but can't reach it? that it?

That is correct. the relay is buried deep inside the TIPM where I only go...and others ,not shy...
im not so daft to replace a whole, TIPM for a bad relay or driver. for any horn... but you can....
it is your cash.
MP(49) schematic. is clear. as day.
well was before fixya blurred it.
(full)



1: is horn ground rusty? (look, examine...)
2: does 12vdc reach horn , honking (a voltmeter tells you this)
if #2 fails the PCM must be scanned to see why.
a must. scan it NOW.
B2336? B2338 (horn not grounded)
b2371 is shorted horn
like that?

if there is DTC that says the horn driver is bad, it is... end story. well, not doing the bad story.
and swapping in new TIPM.'
or reprogramming scrambled is dealer only fix.

the reverse light switch is broken.
we call this switch on A/T tranny, the PRNDL, "Prindle"
its stuck at R
or is trailer hitch wiring from H3LL. (just a glance there and .....)

on M/T tranny car is called the REverse switch. a single switch and vastly cheaper.

this is a big job,you will need to dissconnect the battery, then you will need an engine support bar to hold and lower the engine from the top. you will have to remove the battery and the bracket and also airbox, next is to raise the car and remove the wheels and then seperate the lower balljionts on both sides, remove the axle nuts and remove the axles. then remove the swaybar ends, next is to put engine support on the top of the engine and then remove the frame from under the engine and trany, before the frame can come out you will need to remove the exhaust system and also unbolt the steering rack from the steering shaft, make sure to lock wheel so it doesnt turn,remove lines from rack, when you remove the lower frame the steering rack and all the frnot end componets like the swaybar and lower control arms will come out with the frame you will need to unbolt the front and rear engine mounts, leave the trany mount bolted for now,after the frame is out you will then remove the bolt on the trany mount, this is the mount where the battery sits at the rear of the tranny, lower the engine slowly and just a bit. next is to remove the starter and flywheel covers, you will then remove the converter bolts that hold the flywheel to converter on tranny, next is to remove the tranny bbolts, make sure to leave one bolt on for now.next is to lower engine support enough so that the tranny has enough room to come out, next install tranny jack under tranny and remove last bolt holding it,then pry away from engine always checking to make sure all bolts are out and also all wire connections unhooked, like wiring harness to tranny and selector switch connector and speedometer connection, and tranny will seperate and then you slowly lower to ground, to install reverse directions. good day.

Check ur CONNECTiON on the transmission reverse switch! Located on ur transmissin itself, raised or go underneath ur vehicle to check on it. Wire connection might have been pulled out by hitting something underneath! Reverse switch might not been working anymore! Taaah!

You know for a fact no power is being sent to the front axle? This transfer case only sends power to the front axle when the rear axle is slipping. Are there any unusual noises in the front axle?

If it is the transfer case, replacing it is not too big of a deal. If you are the least bit confident of your abilities, then you can do it yourself. I believe you have the NP242 transfer case, but I could be wrong. There will be a tag on the back side of the case, facing the rear axle, to the left of the drive shaft. On that tag, it will tell you which case you have. You can either have yours rebuilt, or buy a replacement either new or used.

To remove the t-case, first drain the fluid. Next remove the front driveshaft by removing the four bolts holding the u-joint in place. Then remove the rear drive shaft by doing the same as the front driveshaft, only this time it's at the rear differential. Once the drive shaft is free, support the full weight of the driveshaft, not that heavy, and pull it out of the t-case and set aside. Disconnect the shifter linkage and wiring harness. Next, remove the bolts that connect the t-case to the t-case cross member. Lift slightly and support the tranny/t-case assembly and remove the cross member. The t-case isn't very heavy, but you don't want it falling on your head, so remember to support it as you remove the bolts that connect it to the rear of the tranny. Once you bring it out from under the Jeep, and it's rebuilt or you have another unit to replace it, installation is the reverse of removal. Just remember to refill the t-case with the proper fluid.

this is for rear wheel drive only front wheel drives require removing axle shat and dropping tie rod end and lower ball joint to get tranny out. If you start this I will give tork setting when I know what you have as it is a lot of work to type this out.

First disconnect the battery, inside the cab pull shifter boot off and remove snap ring to remove shifter, next get a block to go under engine remove drive line bolts and be sure E-brake is set and block the wheels, next put bolts from driveline into the read differential in order so you will be able to find them next disconnect the two starter bolts from the starter and tie starter up as not to allow the starter weight to hang on the wires. Remove two bolts holding slave cylinder on let hang off the side do not lose the shaft out of slave. Next remove the transmission mount bolt out next pull four bolts out of transmission cross member, next remove 5 bolts out of bell housing now get a baggie and a couple of rubber bands and pull drive shaft slide baggie over the transmission tail shaft and put on rubber band on bag to keep from losing fluid move drive shaft out of the way. Next disconnect the Speedo cable and wiring harness the reverse switch is at the top so will have to drop the tranny down to keep from breaking wire. Once you have a gap between the transmission and engine put block under back of engine slide the transmission out let the front drop down then lift up on rear of transmission and slide the cross member out of the way. Next slide tranny out of the way next remove the 6 bolts on the clutch assembly turning each bolt 1 and a ½ turns each till clutch is loose remove the clutch pressure plate and the throw out bearing, remove flywheel take to machine shop and have surfaced, replace the clutch plate pressure plate and the throw out bearing reinstall in reverse if you see any oil leaks replace seals, also replace rear transmission seal now if you don’t it will leak next after it is back together be sure you put new fluid in the transmission and bleed the slave cylinder.

it is very difficult to match wiring harness from auto tranny to manual tanny they are different connectors and reverse lights on auto tranny was connected to the nuetral safety switch about 6 to 8 different wires on manual tranny there is a switch located on the top of the tranny and backup lights are connected only with 1 wire you may need to get some help from auto electrition this should not cost alot of money to fix thanks

Screwed into the transmission, on top or on one side. Should have only one or two wires at most running to it. Look for broken wire, bad ground at your lamps. If you complete circuit at plug-in to switch, or ground the one wire, lights should come on if switch is at fault. The switch provides a ground when tranny is in reverse. Try get lights on before hastily condemning switch.

If this is an Auto trans, on the left side of the tranny just above the tranny pan is a switch. This is the reverse light switch, replace it.
The switch screws into the side and has a 3 wire connector to it.