Intermittent no start condition. Vehicle ha...

What's missing ? Fuel ,spark , compression ? How many miles on the vehicle ? Does it have spark , pull a plug wire while cranking an hold it near a good ground . Put a fuel pressure gauge on the vehicle , is there fuel pressure ? Do a compression test , 150 psi . engine mechanical problem . timing chain .

Did you put an entire new distributor on the vehicle or just a cap and rotor? It sounds to me like your ignition is out of time. Make sure all of the plug wires are where they are supposed to be on the cap AND connected to the correct spark plug.

. What is the fuel pressure ? Does the vehicle have duel fuel tanks ? Are the the injectors firing ? ECM 1 fuse ,is it good ?

New battery and starter and all you get is clicking sound on the crank.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.

Next check out condition of battery cables, starter relay, neutral safety switch and ignition switch.
Make sure your getting full B+ to starter. Put voltmeter on wire from relay to starter and crank the car. What is the voltage? It should be 10 vots or better. If not check all items listed above for resistance. Use shop manual for spec's. Item with most amount of resistance is holding up the show.
Although battery is new make sure its fully charged before doing any testing.

So your telling me that this car is a stick and you can't pop the clutch to start it ? Correct?
I'm gonna give you a list of thing to check, good luck.

a)Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charged the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery if more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit. Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. If plugs look bad use a fresh plug to do testing and naturally replace them.
If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair . Its dangerous and a real pain.
Good Luck
IN YOUR CASE I BELIEVE YOU NEED A NEW BATTERY UNLESS THIS ONE IS FAIRLY NEW.

Do you have crank no start? (see entire write up)
b)No crank no start?, ( battery, battery cables, neutral safety switch ignition switch,,starter relay)
c)No dash lights, no crank? (battery, battery cables, ignition switch)
If you have symptom A then the affected items are , ignition switch, battery, battery cables, starter, starter relay ,coil, coil pack, ignition module ,Distributor cap ,rotor, (if applicable) spark plugs and wires.
The best thing to do is to first make sure your timing belt didn't break. As long as the engine cranks you can do this. Give the battery a 3 min charge . Then have a helper crank the vehicle while you observe the rotation of all the pulley's and belts. They must rotate together. If the vehicle has a distributor remove the cap ground the coil wire and watch the rotor as the engine is cranked. it should spin. If this is a-ok your worse nightmare is over.
Now we have eliminated the timing belt as being a cause. We now have to charge the battery again for three min and load test it( this is best done by a repair shop a load tester is expensive .If the battery is more than 5yrs old you may want to replace it.
If battery does not pass load test replace it.
Whatever you decide the rest of the items can NOT be checked out without a fully charged battery.
Check ignition switch and starter relay for B+ going to them and leaving them. Check starter circuit.Do not forget neutral safety switch its on your brake pedal and once depressed it closes the circuit to the relay so B+ can travel to it . Make sure B+ is making it to starter ( use a digital voltmeter). If B+ (12 volts) is making it to the starter and it doesn't crank then the starter is defective. Do a starter current draw test to verify this or remove the starter and have it bench tested.
If starter cranks now your into coil testing .
Pull a spark plug hook it up to a spark tester and ground it, now crank the engine if you get spark coil is ok and in all likelihood so is module.
If you don't get spark test for spark at the coil wire.
If you get spark here and don't get it at the spark plug wire problem is at distributor cap , rotor or spark plug wire. IN YOUR CASE YOU HAVE NEW PLUGS AND WIRES SO IT WILL BE EASIER TO CHECK FOR SPARK.If all of the above are a-ok.
Next is fuel checks.
Easiest fuel check is to put key into ignition cylinder and turn to on position. Lister for pump to buzz or hum. if it doesn't then check fuel pump relay for B+ going to it and leaving it and going to the pump. If B+ making it to pump and it doesn't turn on the pump is your problem. If B+ not making it to pump either the relay or the ignition switch is defective.
Naturally if the pump is defective have a repair shop do the repair .THERE ARE FUEL PRESSURE AND VOLUME TESTS DONE TO VERIFY IF PUMP IS DEFECTIVE OR NOT. IF WITH THE TESTING PROCEDURES I'VE GIVEN YOUYOU CAN NOT DETERMINE WHETHER THE PUMP IS DEFECTIVE HAVE A REPAIR SHOP DO FURTHER TESTING ON THE PUMP. THESE TESTS ARE A LITTLE DANGEROUS and a real pain.
Good Luck

Hello! Disable ignition by unplugging the coil wire...Using a volt meter place positive lead on the positive terminal of the battery...place the other lead on the battery lead of the starter...Turn the key to start...If you read .5volts or higher there is a high resistance in the starter cables or ground cables...


send results.........Guru...............saailer


I’m happy to help further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/david_6df67de3b14de867

It could be the spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap, rotor in the cap, or an O2 sensor. does the check engine light come on?

pull number one spark plug and put your pinky in the hole, rotate the engine with the starter solenoid and when u feel pressure at max u are near or at number one cylinder top dead center, bring the timing mark to 10 deg BTDC and then pull distributor and point the rotor to number one plug wire terminal.

First thing you will need to do is remove all plugs and clean them up. (you can burn off fuel on them with a propane torch, away from the vehicle where you won't start a fire...just heat them up enough to get fuel off...don't cook them) Next, disable ignition system so there is no spark from wires, then spin the engine over with plugs out to clear cylinders, or use a high pressure air hose into each plug hole if available.
Since you stated that you have fuel and spark, check that spark is reaching proper destination...Make sure wires are in good condition, cap and rotor as well. Check for carbon tracking in cap and on rotor. If in doubt, change them. Put plugs back in and make sure battery is fully charged before attempting to start engine.
You did not mention any history regarding how kit ran before this happened, or if weather is bad where you are. (sometimes important clues) Generally if somehow the engine floded this should get you back to how it was before!