Starter solenoid on 1993 Ford E350 nwith 7.5 liter v8. Solenoid went bad, new auto parts store replacement, doesn't work right. When I turn the key to first click, the starter engages and the solenoid stays engaged. This is on an Itasca motor home, built on the Ford Econoline chasis

if it has a start relay that is not part of the starter it may be that or ur key switch may be bad

The Ford V-8 they use in both Crown Vic and T-Bird are good for losing the solenoid to the starter. Replace that first before looking for a new starter.

When you go to the parts store they will give you the correct solenoid. Make sure it matches the one you take off. You're lucky because Ford solenoids are not part of the started. Also, to verify that, you can start the truck by by-passing the starter solenoid and engage the starter directly using a jumper cable.

Detailed instructions to by pass the starter solenoid is located here.

http://www.ehow.com/how_5030831_jumpstart-car-solenoid.html

Just answered identical problem in another make of vehicle. There are 2 possibilities for your problem. A bad Keyswitch and/or a bad Starter Solenoid. I assume your Bronco did not start, which is a good thing. You could have damaged the teeth on the flywheel if the engine started.

You may need to replace the Keyswitch. It is suppose to send a signal to the "tickler" wires on the Solenoid, connecting the Battery to the Starter. Either the Keyswitch shorted and continued to power the Solenoid, or the Solenoid shorted and Welded a connection after the Keyswitch was turned OFF.

Remove the small wires to the Solenoid. If the Solenoid is welded internally, the Battery will spark when you try to connect the Battery cables and the Starter will spin. This would mean the Keyswitch may still be good, do not reattach the small wires yet.

You would need a testlight or Voltmeter to test each small "tickler" wire by attaching the testlight to a Ground and the other end to the tickler wire. When you turn the Key to Start, the light should Glow. It should not Glow all the time.

My advice is to replace both the Keyswitch and the Solenoid because of the wear they encountered with the malfunction. Then when you get the Bronco to start, go to Autozone or Oreillys for a Starter draw test to see if the Starter was damaged by your other problems. Both of those Parts stores test and scan for free.

If you have to arch the starter solenoid then its your starter goinng bad. It would be a good idea to also get your batterie tested to make sure you have all your bases covered.(starter & Batterie can be tested at your local parts store)

When its hooked up, you should be able to put 12 volts on the little stud on the solenoid and it should start. One large stud will have 12 volts on it, so just jump it right there. Did you get the wires in the right place. The solenoid should have 1 large wire going down to the starter. Be sure the battery cables are clean and tight ( both ends) Check battery voltage when cranking, should go to 10-11 volts. Check voltage between negative terminal on battery and engine, should be ZERO when cranking. The solenoid has 2 large studs, make sure the battery positive wire and all the other wires are hooked to this stud, the other large stud should just have the wire going to the starter.

Turn key on don't crank engine listen for a grunt sound from back seat area turn your head to the right if you hear no grunt fuel pump is not working.

The Solenoid Switch that controls the starter is bad. If you can get someone to help you. Have them turn the key while you listen under the hood for where ehe clicking is comming from. 2 different Solenoids were used on this model one built on the starter the other mounted on the finder well near the battery. Repair is simple if replacing the Solenoid mounted on the finder well. If it is the starter mounted unit the starter will have to be removed. Most auto parts stores will allow you to use the Chiltons manuel in the their store to lookup removal instructions.Auto Zone, Advanced Auot parts PEP BOYS O'Reillys. All do this as a free service.
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When you twist the key to start, and solenoid is working, the power goes directly to the cable on the other side of the solenoid. If the starter does not turn the engine over, and you KNOW the solenoid is good, then you have a bad cable connection at the solenoid or starter OR the starter itself needs attention. After power goes thru the solenoid, no relay is required. JUST 12 volts.

My ford f150 did the same thing, so I put the old starter solenoid back in( the one by the battery) and it cured the problem.
Come to find out, the after market relays aren't rated right, to get a good one, and the right one, you have to spend more and get it at a dealer.