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I can not put my car into reverse with out 'crunching'. Also it can be hard to put it into gear when stationery but when i driving there is no problem. Could it be the thrust bearing?
If clutch is not adjustable then more likely to be pressure plate springs and thrust bearing(combination of both)replace whole clutch at one time.saves time later.....
How long should a decent clutch hold anyway? When do you know that it needs to be replaced?How long should a decent clutch hold anyway? When do you know that it needs to be replaced?
FROM 7 SECONDS(DRAG START)TO ABOUT 80K NORMAL DRIVING difficulty engaging gears or slipping are the symptoms.FROM 7 SECONDS(DRAG START)TO ABOUT 80K NORMAL DRIVING
difficulty engaging gears or slipping are the symptoms.
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if only the reverse is affected it will not be the converter,if you have no drive in any gears yes the converter drive splines may have stripped but when it happened on my 89 nissan skyline wagon a loud bang was heard when this occurred and i doubt you would have missed this,most likely a snapped reverse band
I'd start by looking at the clutch hydraulic circuit. "...could not put gear into 1st or reverse" suggests that the change cables on the transmission may be failing. And just in case, make sure there's nothing in the cabin that's jamming the gear change lever.
check the selector levers for wear and possible jamming or if you have the lever directly into the top of the box then check the lever pivot pin in the turret of the gear box.
Have some one ( with engine OFF) slowly shift from 1st to Reverse, YOU be out side and watch the linkage and tranny movement. WHAT you may have is loose bracket, tranny, or support bolts. bigAl
Before you race out and replace the clutch which will not be cheap for your car have a good look at the slave cylinder for leaks . Check and bleed the clutch system and have the clutch m/cyl checked. Crunching gears means the clutch system is not disengaging properly
When the engine is idling and the gear box selector is in Neutral all the internals of the gearbox are rotating. Pushing in the Clutch disconnects the drive from the engine to the gearbox but it takes a few seconds for the gears in the box to cease rotating. All the forward gears have synchromesh so there will be no crunching noise ifa forward gear is selected immediately the clutch is pushed in before allowing the gears to stop spinning. On the other hand Reverse has No synchros and therefore selecting reverse before waiting a few seconds for the gears to stop spinning will produce the crunching noise you have described.
So it pays to wait a second or two after pushing in clutch before Reverse is selected to minimise the crunch and if the clutch appears to be working correctly in normal driving ,then no adjustment is necessary.
It does sound like a gear box issue. 1st and reverse do share some hardware inside. Have a good transmission repair person take a listen to it if you can.
thats common for the reverse gear to grind if you go right for it i always go to fist then reverse. it sounds like you might have a week slave cylinder and the pressure is to low to go into a high gear does this happen in 5 th also or only 3 rd?
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