Replacement of rear control arm. The control arm looks like a bar with a tie rod end and seems to be holding the wheel assembly in place. as far as I can tell it is a control arm assembly. How difficult would this be to obtain and to replace myself?

I would look at replacing your ball joints and/or tie rod ends, either can cause those symptoms. The balls joints should be check by a professional.

To check your tie rods jack one front side of your car check it, then do the other;

Move the front wheels. Placing your hands on the tire at the 9 and 3 o'clock positions, move the tire back and forth rapidly. A properly tightened front end will give no signs of excess movement and should give you the feeling of the entire wheel moving back and forth tight to the hub. If there is a movement, ask a friend or partner to ascertain where the movement is coming from. There could be many places that excess movement in a front end could be coming from. The tie rod ends are the easiest to check. Generally, if there is movement in the outer tie rod end, you will see it moving near the ball area where is sits down into the knuckle of the control arm. Excess movement there will require replacement of the outer tie rod. As far as movement on the inner tie rod, place your hand on that while your helper is moving the tire in the same motion described above. Determine how excessive the movement is, if any, for an inner tie rod. Some vehicles will give off a little movement in the rack and pinion. Some vehicles will have what feels like excess movement, but have pitman arms and idler arms that will also need to be checked. Those components should only be allowing side-to-side movement.
Take some time and make sure the lower ball joint is not moving. Place your hands on the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and try to move it up and down. Many vehicles nowadays have wheel bearing hub assemblies, and there should be absolutely no free-play whatsoever. If there is and the lower ball joint is not moving in the knuckle, chances are there's movement in the bearing. Some rear-wheel-drive vehicles have a bearing seated rotor and this can be adjusted to tighten the looseness in a bearing; however, a little movement in that type of application is generally OK.

1 PUT ON YOUR EMERGENCY BREAK, LOOSEN THE WHEEL NUTS ON THE FRONT WHEELS,JACK UP THE CAR AND REMOVE THE FRONT WHEEL. WITH SOME YELLOW PAINT ,MARK THE THREADS WHERE IT SCREWS INTO THE TIE ROD END SO YOU KNOW HOW FAR TO SCREW THE NEW ON ONTO. TAKE OUT THE COTTER PIN AND REMOVE THE CASTLE NUT FROM THE ROD. USE A PRY BAR TO SEPERATE THE BOLT FROM THE TIE ROD END. ONCE SEPARATED YOU SHOULD BE ABLE UNSCREW THE OLD TIE ROD END OFF THE SHAFT..TAKE THE NEW ONE AND SCREW IT BACK ON ONLY TO THE YELLOW PAINT MARK THAT YOU MADE ON THE ROD EARLIER. THEN JUST REASSEMBLE THE SAME WAY YOU TOOK IT APART. MAKE SURE YOU TORQUE THE NUT TO 50 LBS.AND BE SURE TO USE A NEW COTTER PIN ON THE CASTLE NUT..

Jack up the front of the vehicle remove the wheel. Put a jack stand or similar under the side of the vehicle , dont just rely on the jack to hold it up. remove the split pin from the nut on the joint. Crack off the locking nut from the tie rod to the end. Dont undo it just back it off less than 1/4 turn. Undo the nut that the split pin came out of. Leave it on a couple of threads. place a rod,bar or lever of some kind to put pressure on the tie rod end away from its position . The end has a tapered fit where you have undone the nut. Hit the side of the steering arm that the rod end goes through with a hammer. You will need to hit it quite hard a few times ,this will jar the tie rod out of the taper. Take the nut right off then unscrew the rod end from the tie rod. Place the new and old tierod end together to make sure they are identicle. screw the new joint onto the tie rod to the same position the old one was. place the tapered end through the steering arm. tighten the nut then fit the new split pin. Tighten the lock nut on the tie rod to the rod end. If it is a greasable joint grease it with a grease gun. You may wish to have a front wheel alignment done. Replace the wheel and let the vehicle down. Happy motoring. If this has been usefull Please Vote Jeff

Removing the Ball Joint Step 1 Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheel assembly with the ball joint you need to replace. Do not remove the lug nuts.
Step 2 Set the transmission in neutral (manual) or park (automatic) and raise the wheel off the ground using a floor jack. Then support the car on a jack stand.
Step 3 Chock the rear wheels and apply the parking brake.
Step 4 Remove the wheel lugs and the wheel assembly.
Step 5 Remove the mounting nut and dished washer that secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 6 Unscrew and remove the mounting bolt and nut holding the inner side of the control arm to the car's body. This will relieve the tension on the stabilizer bar. Use a wrench to hold the mounting bolt as you unscrew the nut with a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 7 Unscrew the bolt on the steering knuckle that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a wrench or ratchet and socket.
Step 8 Spread the steering knuckle joint that holds the control-arm ball joint to the knuckle. Use a large screwdriver or pry bar. Then separate the ball joint from the steering knuckle.
Step 9 Pull the control arm from the stabilizer bar.
Step 10 Remove the stabilizer bar spacer from the control arm and keep it in a secure place. You will need to use it on the new control-arm ball joint assembly.
Installing the Ball Joint Step 1 Insert the new control-arm ball joint stud into the steering knuckle joint. As you look through the mounting bolt hole on the steering knuckle, align the notch on the ball joint stud with the hole. Insert a new ball joint mounting bolt and start a new nut on the bolt. Tighten the nut.
Step 2 Mount the stabilizer bar spacer in the control arm, then insert the stud bolt at the end of the stabilizer bar into the control arm mounting hole and spacer.
Step 3 Set the other end of the control arm in its mounting position and insert the mounting bolt. Then start the mounting nut on the bolt by hand.
Step 4 Hold the head of the mounting bolt that secures the control arm to the car's body using a wrench, then tighten the nut.
Step 5 Secure the stabilizer bar to the control arm with the dished washer and mounting nut. Tighten the nut.
Step 6 Install the wheel assembly and lugs. Tighten the lugs with the lug wrench just enough to hold the wheel assembly firmly in place.
Step 7 Lower the vehicle and finish tightening the wheel lugs.
Step 8
Remove the chocks from the rear wheels.

It could be several things.

1. Strut is worn and the rod is rattling.
2. The ball joint or control arm are worn. A new control arm comes with the ball joint and a new bushing.
3. The inner and/or tie rod end is worn, allowing the wheel to rattle.

Raise the car and support it. Twist the wheel back and forth while observing the tie rod. Look for play in the inner and outer connections. If this is ok, place a pry bar under the tire and lift up while observing the ball joint and control arm. You should not see any play. Look at the strut. Look for oil on the housing. Look for play in the rod or a loose connection.

Remove wheel
Remove axle nut
Remove outer tie rod nut
Leave outer tie rod nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where tie rod is mounted very hard with a large hammer (wear Saftey glasses)
The tie rod should loosen up and you remove it off spindle.
Remove lower ball joint nut
Leave nut on 3-4 threads
Hit spindle area where ball joint mounts (wear saftey glasses)
Carfully pry down the lower control arm too remove ball joint from arm.
Press in the axle towards the trans. out of the wheel bearing.
Place a piece of wood between the shock and inner fender to give yourself room to work.
Remove the three 15mm bolts that hold the wheel bearing on.
Hit wheel bearing out with hammer (wearing saftey glasses)
You may need to break a sweat on this part. Somtimes they are rusted in.
Be carfull not to damage the ABS sensor.

Reverse procedures to install

you can buy remanufactured at parts store or buy used from car-part.com. page with * is lowest cost.

It's a pretty big job for a novice.

here's 96 taurus steps with 3.8l engine. don't have 94. should be similar

Removal
SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Tool Number Description T94T-6000-AH Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T57L-500-B Bench Mounted Holding Fixture

1. Disconnect negative battery cable.
   

1. Position steering wheel one-half turn to right and lock wheel.
   

1. Position steering column boot out of the way. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and separate.
   

1. Disconnect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose from clean air tube. Loosen two hose clamps retaining clean air tube and position out of the way.
   

1. Disconnect power steering auxiliary actuator and power steering pressure switch.
   

1. Remove two heat shield pushpin retainers from power steering hose bracket and remove heat shield.
   

1. Remove one retaining bolt from left turn pressure hose bracket.
   

1. Position drain pan under steering gear.
   

1. Remove power steering pressure and return hoses from fittings on power steering rack. Position both hoses out of the way. Disconnect rear HO2S connector at steering rack and position out of the way.
   

1. Partially raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove front wheel and tire assemblies.
   

1. Remove LH upper stabilizer bar link retaining nut and position link out of the way.
   

1. Loosen LH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Loosen RH tie-rod jam nut. Remove cotter pin and tie-rod retaining nut at lower control arm. Using tie-rod end separator or equivalent, remove tie-rod from control arm and from steering gear.
   

1. Raise vehicle.
   

1. Remove drain pan.
   

1. Remove two steering gear retaining nuts at front subframe.
   

1. Install Exhaust Connector Holder Tool T94T-6000-AH on flex tube.
   

1. Remove bolts, nuts, and gasket from where flex tube and converter Y-pipe connect. Separate tube from pipe.
   

1. Position Rotunda Power Train Lift 014-00765 or equivalent with wood blocks approximately 1016 mm (40 inches) in length (secured to lift) under subframe and raise.
   

1. Remove two rear subframe retaining bolts and lower subframe approximately 102 mm (4 inches).
   

1. Rotate power steering rack to clear bolts from subframe and remove assembly through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove two bolts retaining power steering hose bracket to short rack and remove bracket.
   

1. Mount steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Remove four clamps retaining bellows to steering gear and tie-rods. Remove bellows and power steering gear rack tube.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while loosening inner tie-rods. Remove tie-rods from steering rack. Remove steering rack from bench-mounted holding fixture.
   

Installation

1. Mount new steering gear assembly in Bench Mounted Holding Fixture T57L-500-B.
   

1. Position rack and pinion steering gear so several steering gear teeth are exposed. Hold steering gear with adjustable wrench on end teeth only, while tightening inner tie-rods. Tighten to 90-110 Nm (66-81 lb-ft).
   

1. Apply Steering Gear Grease C3AZ-19518-A meeting Ford specification ESB-M1C119-A to groove in connecting rods where tie-rod bellows clamp to front wheel spindle tie-rod and uniformly apply to inner diameter of bellows. Install bellows and gear rack tube onto short rack.
   

1. Install new inner and outer bellows clamps.
   

1. Remove steering gear from Bench Mounted Holding Fixture and place on bench.
   

1. Install power steering hose bracket and retaining bolts at top of steering gear. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing and install short rack through LH wheel well.
   

1. Position steering rack and retaining bolts through subframe. Raise powertrain lift until rear subframe contacts body and install retaining bolts. Tighten to 135-195 Nm (100-144 lb-ft). Lower and remove powertrain lift from vehicle.
   

1. Install power steering short rack-to-subframe nuts. Tighten to 97-132 Nm (72-97 lb-ft).
   

1. Install new gasket, bolts and nuts at converter Y-pipe and flex tube. Tighten to 34-46 Nm (26-34 lb-ft).
   

1. Remove flex tube holder.
   

1. Partially lower vehicle.
   

1. Install LH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install LH stabilizer bar link and retaining nut. Tighten to 76.5-103.5 Nm (57-76 lb-ft).
   

1. Install RH jam nut and outer tie-rod to inner tie-rod. Install tie-rod to steering knuckle. Install retaining nut. Tighten to 47-63 Nm (35-46 lb-ft). Install new cotter pin.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten to 115-142 Nm (85-105 lb-ft).
   

1. Lower vehicle.
   

1. Remove old Teflon® O-rings from pressure and return hoses. Install new Teflon® O-rings on pressure and return hoses.
   

1. Install power steering pressure hose and return hose to fittings on power steering short rack. Tighten to 33-41 Nm (24-30 lb-ft).
   

1. Install one retaining bolt to left-turn pressure hose bracket. Tighten to 9-12 Nm (80-106 lb-in).
   

1. Connect rear HO2S connectors, power steering auxiliary actuator, and power steering pressure switch electrical connectors.
   

1. Position heat shield at power steering hose bracket and install pushpin retainers.
   

1. Install clean air tube, connect PCV vent tube and vacuum supply hose, and tighten hose clamps. Tighten to 2-3 Nm (18-27 lb-in).
   

1. Install steering column intermediate shaft coupling to power steering short rack and install pinch bolt. Tighten to 41-51 Nm (30-38 lb-ft). Position steering column boot over steering rack.
   

1. Fill and purge system.
   

1. Check operation.
   

1. Adjust only toe for alignment. Refer to Section 04-00 .
   

Lift the passenger side of vehicle. Remove tire/wheel assembly. Remove the axle nut. Remove the tie rod end nut. Smack the side of the housing the tie rod end goes into to pop the tie rod end loose and out. Remove the sway bar link. Remove the lower ball joint nut. Smack the housing the lower ball joint goes into to pop the ball joint loose. Pry the lower control arm down to pop the ball joint out. swivel the rotor and strut assembly to the side. Pop the axle out. Reassemble in the reverse order.

if fluid is flowing out the bellows, you need to replace the steering rack assembly. There is no fluid in the area of the inner tie rod. The seal is just before the tie rod.

Steering Gear
The power rack and pinion steering gear is serviced as a power steering short rack (3L547). The front wheel spindle tie rods (3280) and tie rod ends (3A130) are serviced individually. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

• The power rack and pinion steering gear incorporates quick connect fittings for the power steering pressure hose (3A719) and power steering return hose (3A713) that allow the lines to swivel. This is normal and does not indicate loose fittings.
• If the fittings leak, check to make sure they are tightened to 14-20 Nm (10-14 lb-ft). Do not overtighten.
• If the leak is not corrected, replace the fitting seals.

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Section 11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Tie Rod End Steering Gear Installed
Removal

1. Remove and discard cotter pin and nut from worn tie rod end (3A130).
   

1. Disconnect tie rod end from front wheel knuckle (3K185), using Tie Rod End Remover TOOL-3290-D or equivalent.
   

1. Hold tie rod end with a wrench and loosen tie rod end jam nut.
   

1. Note depth to which tie rod end was located by using the jam nut as a marker. Grip tie rod end with a pair of suitable pliers and remove tie rod end from front wheel spindle tie rod (3280).
   

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11-02: Steering System, Power 1997 Windstar Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Steering Gear Removal

1. Raise vehicle on a twin post hoist and remove wheel and tire assemblies. Refer to Section 00-02 .
   
   
   
   
   

1. Support vehicle with jackstands under front jack pads.
   

1. Remove tie-rod end cotter pins and nuts and remove tie rod ends (3A130) from front wheel knuckle (3K185). Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Remove front stabilizer bar (5482). Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Disconnect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
   

1. Support flex pipe.
   

1. Remove bolts and disconnect flex pipe from the converter.
   

1. Raise dash opening steering column opening weather seal (3513) (secondary) above the steering gear housing (3548).
   

1. Remove pinch bolt retaining steering column intermediate shaft coupling (3A525) to power steering gear input shaft and control (3D517) and disconnect the shaft.
   

1. Remove nuts from steering gear-to-front subframe retaining bolts. Remove bolts.
   

1. Remove rear subframe-to-body retaining bolts.
   

1. Lower twin post hoist carefully until rear of subframe (5R003) separates from body, approximately four inches.
   

1. Remove heat shield band and fold shield down.
   

1. Rotate power rack and pinion steering gear to clear bolts from front subframe (5C145) and pull left to facilitate line fitting removal.
   

1. Place a drain pan under vehicle and remove line fittings.
   

1. Remove power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
   

1. Remove and discard the O-rings.
   

Installation

1. Install new Teflon® O-rings on line fittings as outlined.
   

1. Place steering gear retaining bolts in steering gear housing.
   

1. Install power rack and pinion steering gear through LH wheel well.
   

1. Install power steering line fittings to power rack and pinion steering gear.
   

1. Position power rack and pinion steering gear into front subframe.
   

1. Install ******** heat shield.
   

1. Install tie-rod ends to front wheel knuckle. Install nuts and new cotter pins. Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Install LH front stabilizer bar. Refer to Section 04-01 .
   

1. Install steering gear to subframe mounting nuts. Tighten to 115-135 Nm (85-99 lb-ft).
   

1. Raise hoist until rear subframe contacts body.
   

1. Install rear subframe to body retaining bolts. Tighten to 113-153 Nm (83-112 lb-ft).
   

1. Install exhaust system flex tube to dual converter Y pipe (5F250) and remove flex tube support.
   

1. Connect heated oxygen and catalyst monitor sensors.
   

1. Install tire and wheel assemblies. Tighten lug nuts (1012) to 115-142 Nm (85-104 lb-ft).
   

1. Using a new pinch bolt, install the steering column intermediate shaft coupling on the power steering gear input shaft and control and the lower steering column shaft. Tighten the pinch bolt to 34-46 Nm (25-33 lb-ft).
   

1. Position steering column opening weather seal (secondary) over the steering gear housing. Tighten nuts to 4.5-6.3 Nm (40-55 lb-in).
   

1. Remove jackstands and lower vehicle.
   

1. Fill power steering oil reservoir (3A697) with Premium Power Steering Fluid E6AZ-19582-AA or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESW-M2C33-F. Refer to Section 11-00 .
   

1. Check system for leaks and proper operation.
   
   

Your description leads me to believe that the spindle is bent. This is the piece that the tie rod attaches to near the wheel. Sometimes the tie rod is attached to a piece that attaches to the spindle which is rather intuitive. Just remove the tie rod end, unbolt the arm that attaches to the spindle and replace the arm. In this case the only special tool you'll need is a tie rod seperator.

If the arm is a part of the spindle and cannot be removed easily:

1) Put vehicle in park and safety brake on - chock the rear wheels
2) Lift passenger side front wheel and put on jack stands
3) Remove wheel and have a friend apply brake pressure
4) Loosen hub nut with appropriate socket (22 to 35mm)
You can purchase the socket from your local auto parts store
You'll need a large breaker bar, its torqued to about 100ft-lbs
5) Remove tie rod end with a tie rod/ball joint separator
This can also be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Some spindles are made with tie rod end permanantly attached
If it is removable, remove nut and drive the separator tool
between the tie rod and spindle using a large hammer.
It'll eventually break free from the spindle.
6) Remove the strut with a strut spring compressor tool
WARNING - THIS IS VERY DANGEROUS
This can be purchased at your local auto parts store.
Compress spring before removing lower bolts (2 of them).
The strut may be left on vehicle but the spring must be
compressed.
7) Remove caliper and break assembly
Loosen the two slide bolts that go through the caliper assembly
Remove caliper and breaks - let it hang by the tubing
8) Detach upper and lower ball joints with seperator tool as in #5
9) Finally remove the hub nut from #4
The spindle should slide off the axle
10) Repair or replace the spindle and put it all back together in
reverse order using new wheel bearings. Pack them with axle
grease if theyr'e not the sealed type.

NOTE: The tie rod end may need to be replaced also. The vehicle will need a front end allignment. Be sure to torque the hub nut to the manufacturers specifications - at least 75ft-lbs. You should probably replace the wheel bearings.