The problem was with the crank position sensor, and I had the feeling that is what was going to be at fault.
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If the 4 wheel light is on then most likely there would be a damaged switch at the transfer case or wire going to the transfer case switches/sensors, (depending on what transfer case is actually in that Wrangler) and you should check all of the electrical wiring running to that transfer case, and any that are out on the axles even the vacuum lines to the 4-wd actuator. Also, make sure that all of the linkage for the transfer case is properly adjusted.
But from what that idiot below me is trying to say is that I will just copy his quite vague attempt to try and help you out, and I think that he really thinks that you have been talking to him all of this time, and I am sorry about that.
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People can do things to vehicles that the vehicle could never do to itself. Therefore once you do any work as you did, anything and everything is suspect. If the old crank sensor was not connected, the engine would never have started. If it did, then something isn't right there!
You definitely need a good wiring diagram (chiltons manual is good for that). Likely the best way to solve your problem will be to go wire by wire doing continuity and location testing with an ohmmeter, (battery disconnected) then again testing power (battery connected) also testing each component, checking results against published range values. Ground connections are equally as important as is power. Aside from the battery to block and fender ground there are several more smaller ground wires on the block (usually on the passenger side) and of course, the block to firewall strap,
On a new install, always check that no wires have been pinched between the bellhousing and block.
I'd also check that the crank sensor is properly positioned as you could have a depth problem if different parts were used, flywheel position on crank is important and sensor itself may have been damaged if it was on the bellhousing while putting it together.
When doing wire tests, keep good notes on location and what you found at each wire. That helps to avoid repeating any wire tests and when completed it will give you a "picture" of what is connected to what, which can then be compared to the wire diagram.
Your problem may have been caused by the work done or, it may not. Since the cps was disconnected there is a good chance that the vehicle had a problem before you even opened the hood. Therefore, only careful diagnosis and testing will give you an answer.
Not saying it will be easy to find (by the time you finish it's likely you will know each wire by it's first name) but you can do this with some time and patience.
Good luck
I just re-checked my wiring diagrams and don't have one for yours. What seems to be common for all is that the center terminal on the cps always goes directly to the computer, the other ones share connections with other sensors. Likely your best source for getting this right would be a chilton manual as they are good with their wiring diagrams. I still can't understand why the old engine ran (if it did) There is no way it could without a working cps. You did have a 4,0 engine before? Wiring was not otherwise compromised? There are no easy ways around this. Each wire must go where it was intended, especially because they tie into one another and the entire system won't work properly if it's wrong. Also check all fuses...any that are blown or not connected can cause problems.
Makes a little sense but the only thing I'd be concerned with is that there are two different wiring configurations (that I know of) and if wired wrong it can cause problems.(connecting wires in low voltage systems must be done correctly as well because a poor connection can cause a voltage drop. Even too much solder or wrong kind of solder can do that) Like I said, aside from what was done while installing, I'd treat this as a typical no-start and run through everything. Anything that looks remotely like someone had it apart before should also get a second and third look too.
Well, I've given you all I can without going there and doing tests, so now it's yours.
anything you find and need an opinion on, just ask!
I've got no ideahow to rate an answer. Regardless of ratings, I'm glad you did not need to go through the entire harness. As I said in the beginning, people can cause more things to go wrong than the car can do to itself! And the sensor makes sense (ha!) because as I also said, I can't understand how it could have possibly ran before.
No sensor or a bad sensor shuts down everything including the injectors!!!
Good luck finishing the project (and your back...have had a bad one for thirty years....no fun!!)
Ok...likely a wire for that switch is grounded or the switch is bad. Don't forget to rate the other guy for the same answer after he copies mine nearly word for word. Get a manual!!!!!!! Chiltons has really good schematics. They are nearly as good as my bigger ones!!
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Well according to my son and the mechanic that worked on it,, yes,, the old one was not even connected. So only going by what they said.
Another note,, the new bell housing crank angle sensor 'is' connected.,, Although since the old was not, they did not know what the wiring should be, so it was a guess, but the wiring was tried differenet ways from what I was told.
Thanks for the information,,, we have tried to disconnect the connection and it still won't start,, so not to sure what that is all about. Will be getting a new sensor tomorrow and will be checking all that you mentioned,, and replacing the sensor. Only issue now is that the wiring that 'was' there was connected to the sensor now, but the wiring detail/layout was not exactly known how it was suppose to be wired, so he (the mechanic) wired it up the way he thought it should be,, any thoughts on the wiring ? and how it should be ?,, Thanks again,, just a dad here trying to get his son's Jeep going,, He is in the Coast Guard so is not here to work on it, so trying to get this done on my own,, thanks again....
wiring for the crank position sensor on the old bell housing was existing from the sensor on the housing,, to the engine compartment but supposedly was not connected. The New bell housing sensor wiring was cut at the sensor and only had about an inch of wiring left,, so he took cut the wire at the old sensor down at the sensor and connected it to the new sensor and then connected it to the existing connector in the engine compartment. Sounds confusing but hope it answered the question.
Well,,, I picked up a New 91 Jeep Wrangler Crank Position Sensor today. Got home,, took out the 95 Jeep Cherokee Sensor and installed the new one. After a few turns of the ignition (to allow fuel to now get to the engine), she started right up. So that WAS the problem,,, :),, After talking to my son about the fact that it now runs, he then informed me that after thinking about it, he and his mechanic friend 'may' have yanked the wires out of the old sensor when they dropped the tranny,, uhhhhh,, explains the comment about well the other one wasn't connected due to the fact they saw the wires were pulled out so figured it was never connected. Second hand information SUCKS.... I really appreciate the help and you can increase your rating big time,, you get my vote for sure. I am glad it is now running so I can de-stress about it, I just had spine surgery not long ago so all the crawling around on and under the jeep was kinda getting to me.. Lol,,
Thanks again for your help,, highly recommend your help to anyone.. Dave
How do I leave you a rating ?,,, can't seem to get to that section,,, want to make sure others realize you are a Jeep Guru also,,
Hate to bug you,, but how about this one,,, Now since it can be started and driven,, (although maybe a mile so far), the 4 wheel light on the instrument panel stays on even though it is in 2 wheel drive,, any thoughts ?,, I know,, seems this Jeep is a full time job,, lol
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