1990 Toyota PICK UP SR5 V6, when in gear and start releasing clutch pedal, truck starts moving forward with slight jerking. As soon as I give it gas, it starts to **** harder, forcing me to shift into 2nd gear to avoid it. After that, shifting and acceleration is good. Just from dead stop, between 1-2 shifts. Replaced master and slave. Truck on, idling, fine. Rolling out of first, nasty.

This is when you need to let the clutch out just enough to stop the backwards roll when you take your foot off the brake, then you can move to the gas pedal and when pressing the gas pedal you can release the clutch all the way to get moving. IT is a matter of practice and timing..

that is normal if the gear synchro dogs ( teeth) are in line in the box
problems concerning a clutch are
slashing gears when trying to engage first or reverse with the pedal to the floor ---needs bleeding
slipping when the clutch pedal is released--- slipping clutch from the pressure not being released ---problem in master cylinder
reverse gear is the only gear not synchronised so even with the clutch depressed it is possible sometimes that it will not go into gear unless you let the clutch up to move the gears in the box then attempt to re-engage reverse

-Possibly time to replace new clutch.

Good luck


mai

The question is a little vague but I think I know what your referring to. All modern automatic transmissions have torque converters. This is the device that connects the engine to the transmission. All vehicle manufacturers like the trans to be nice and smooth shifting. That's great but it does come with some minor drawbacks. If you are facing slightly down hill and you put your car in reverse but do not step on the gas slightly I can guarantee that you will indeed roll forward. You can eliminate that issue by holding your left foot on the brake while you shift into reverse. Then, as soon as you feel the trans engage, gently depress the gas pedal with your right foot and it will eliminate that forward roll problem.

Hopefully you got a warranty with the clutch job, so I would take it back to that shop first. If you have someone else work on the truck the first shop is off the hook for responsibility. Its possible the clutch has failed, or you have developed a new problem.

You have to explain in detail what was checked & how
by the mechanic

I would start with checking fuel pressure at the motor with
a gauge & road test with the gauge tied to a wiper

Is the battery any good?

Was the TPS Sensor back probed & checked?

You got a MAP Sensor on it,that could be a problem?

Checked EGR System over good

Checked alternator voltage,current & diode leakage.

Bad ignition switch?

Fuel pump relay?

Coolant temp sensor

Have to test the entire vehicle Evap System also

Vacuum leaks

Exhaust Leaks

Meachanical Condition --cylinder leak down test

Worn out clutch release bearing.

Assuming this is a standard transmission, you always have it in 1st gear. Roll back is controlled by balancing the clutch with the gas pedal.

If an automatic transmission, then the vehicle should hold itself on the incline, unless it is a steep incline, to which you may use the gas pedal to hold the vehicle on the slope, and not the brake. And you would always have the transmission in the main drive gear position.

I assume the clutch won't release. Put the trans in neutral and start the engine. Let it get warm. MAKE SURE THERE IS ROOM TO DRIVE THE TRUCK, WITH NOTHING IN THE WAY. Stop the engine, put the trans in first, and start the engine. The truck will jump forward when the engine starts. Get it on a clear road, push the clutch pedal in, and hit the gas. It should come loose in one or two tries.

it may sound like the clutch but this problem has nothing to do with the clutch. these motors are notorious with machinists. The oiling system is lousy, you are most likely throwing rod #6 in the motor.
as the machinist up the street from me has noted that everyone that he has done was rod #6 being thrown.