Hi,
Firstly, has this engine you are fitting this turbo kit too had a turbo on it before?
Also can I have the model and size of the engine?
This is a big job, and I need full details of the engine.
Thanks
Jason
No turbo before,It is a 2007 6.2 L, LS9 , 403 hp
Ok,
The first thing that you should really do is look at the compression ratio: which on this model engine is in the range of 9 - 10:1 ratio, which is to high for a turbo of the size you have.
If you mount a turbo of this size and run it at say 5 - 7 lb boost your engine may last 50 - 100 hours.
Any higher and your going to blow the bottom end out, unless you have fitted a stronger bottom end.
If not you will need to buy steel/cooper head gaskets, this is so that you can drop the comp: ratio. Down to at least 7 - 8:1.
Apart from the above it is quite straight forward, proveided you have all the parts needed to bolt it up.
Procedure:
1. Fit exhaust manifolds that are matched to the vehicle and the turbo flange, if not then you will need to frabricate some flanges on the current exhaust manifolds.
2. Fit the turbo/s, with gaskets etc.
3. Ensure that the exhaust housings are facing the rear of the engine or in a position which will allow the best exhaust flow.
4. You will then need to find a oil gallery and water outlet/gallary which you can tap into, now your oil/water hose's you have with your kit, should have all the fittings for the oil hose to engine block oil gallary, this should be the same with the water line.
5. After fitting these and routing them, your almost there.
6. If your running a front mount intercooler you will need to try and make all the inlet tracts and intake tracts as short as possible, to the intercooler and the engine intake manifold/throttle bodies.
7. Once you have done all this all you need is to hook the hose coming off the wastegate actuator to a vacum connection on the intake manifold, if your turbo don't have and internal waste gate attached then you will need to ge a external waste gate or your going to blow your engine in the first 3000 - 5000 rpm you pull in it.
This should help you some of the way, as for tuning you need to wait until you have it mounted and weather you have gone external/or internal waste gate method.
Let me know what you intend on doing and I can give you more indepth information.
Thanks
Jason
Jason
Here is the kit I bought GMC Sierra T3T4 Turbo Charger Kit will I need more to complete the install ? where do u recommend i but head gaskets from ?How would a guy modify the stock exh manifold is it not cast iron.Do you think the turbo i bought is to big ? Should i purchase a different one ? Do they have to change the head gaskets on all the kits? From what i have read the magnison charger does not need head gaskets or the STS turbo,what is the difference
Jason
I made a mistake it is not an LS9 ,It is a L92.
L92
The 2007 Cadillac Escalade has a 6.2 L Vortec 6200 (RPO L92) (≈376 cu in) engine. It is an all-aluminium design which, while still a pushrod engine, boasts variable valve timing, a first in a mass-produced non-overhead cam V8 engine. The system adjusts both intake and exhaust timing between two settings. This engine produces 402 hp (301 kW) and 417 ft•lb (565 N•m) in the GMC Yukon Denali/XL Denali, Sierra SLT, and in the GMC Sierra Denali, and rated at 403 hp (301 kW) and 415 ft·lbf (563 N·m) (441hp with 95 octane export version) in the Hummer and in the Cadillac Escalade. It is also available in the Chevrolet Tahoe LTZ, with power ratings of 395 hp (295 kW) and 417 ft·lbf (565 N·m).
Applications:2007+ Cadillac Escalade
2007+ GMC Yukon Denali/Denali XL
2007+ GMC Sierra Denali
2008+ Hummer H2
2009+ Chevrolet Silverado 1500
Hi,
The specs of all those engines is quite impressive but the fact is you will still have too look at reducing the compression ratio or run the turbo at low boost settings at about 7-9lb.
You have to realise that once you bolt a turbo or 2 of them onto an engine that this is like squirting NOS into the engine, not as aggressive but still lifting the horse power rating above the current horsepower rating the engine was first designed and built for.
Its not the fact of the horsepower rating going up thats the problem its how quickly that power increase gets forced on the engine to perform it, thats when bits start disintigrating and blowing up.
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