2004 ls coups 2 dr 2.2 engine symptoms for bad fuel? I have ruff idol every two or three days and I called a few garages and they said possible bad fuel pump. they also said this model had a possible recall notice for the fuel pump. Is this true? please let me know.

usually an O2 code is 3 digits and not this type of code. if it has an mass air flow sensor(MAF) it could be it. I would start with checking the MAF readings then the O2 readings. OBD 2 codes are emission regulated so no matter what car it is the codes represent the same problem.

I would not drive it in case the engine died, the symptoms you describe are indicative of possible cylinder head issues.
Get a GOOD garage to visit or have them tow it into their premises to check your vehicle over.

The 50 amp main fuse should be able to be tested with a standard test light. If it has continuity then it is OK. If it is bad then replace it and retest.
First thing that comes to mind on a Honda with your symptoms is a fail ignition distributor or bad ignition coil. I would advise you to test for spark at the spark plugs and if you have none, then start testing the distributor.

Check the water temp sensor. I'm not too familiar with Lincoln, but on GM vehicles a bad water temp sensor will tell the computer that the engine is cold causing it to dump more fuel than it really needs thus flooding the engine. The only way to start the engine is to open the throttle body enough to get the air/fuel ratio right so it will burn. If that doesn't work look at your EGR system to make sure the valve isn't sticking. It should move freely. If it's binding then it can cause similar issues, though not as likely.

Cycle your key on (not start) then off, on, off, then on and leave it on. Now count the flashes from the "check engine light" and get back to us with those codes. It will flash a 2 digit number, but pause briefly between numbers. For example: 3 flashes,pause, then 3 more flashes is code 33. 1 flash, pause , then 5 more would be code 15. When you get 5 flashes, pause, then 5 more, that's code 55 and it just means end of message or codes. You'll also get a short pause between codes as well, so have a pad and paper ready and keep your eyes on the check engine light.

Hello. I recommend that you go to any auto parts store and purchase two bottles of dry gas and one bottle of another fuel additive called Seafoam. Pour all three bottles into the gas tank. Then drive for a few miles and you may have solved your problems. Joe

Try replacing the fuel filter first, but it sounds like your loosing your fuel pressure prim when the fuel pump is not working. The fuel pressure should be 62-65 PSI with the engine not running the the ignition key turned on and should drop about 5 psi when the engine is running. If you turn the engine off and check the fuel pressure, it stat steady for morn then 15min. If it drops fast, then you have a leak at your fuel pressure regulator (common) or your return fuel check valve which is located at your fuel sending unit.
Start with the simple and replace the fuel filter, it could just be to dirty to pressurize the fuel system fast enough giving you the hard start.
Thank you for using Fixya and good luck

You likely got water under the coil cover while detailing it. I would take the covers off, clean all the water out and dry it out. Take each coil out, dry it out and reinstall it with some dielectric grease in the boot and hope for the best.

I had a customers with an 02 LS recently that had a similar problem. I tried to get away with just replacing the problem coil. But every other week he came back with a misfire an another cylinder. We ended up replacing every coil and it's been good ever since. Be prepared to shell out for 8 new coils eventually. Get new covers while your at it. The coils are about $90 each, covers are $17 each.

Sounds like either
a) you have air or water in the fuel. Drain the fuel filter container. Close it all up tight and see how you do.
b)air is getting into the system - does it take a long time to start in the morning?
c)an injector is going down. Have a garage to an injector leak-off test.
I think C sounds most likely. It is possible, if you have a very rare 1.9 Turbo edition, that you have a split turbo hose, and you are loosing thrust through the pipe. Check the rubber hoses from air filter to intercooler (if fitted) and intercooler to turbo, turbo to inlet manifold.

check the cylinder pressure. Mine does the same, and is suspected to be due to a worn cylinder or worn valves leaking. (do your valves click too?) Supposedly, the leak in pressure is causing less efficient combustion which leads to the fumes and slight loss of power / MPG. I haven't been able to open the engine to test mine yet. I am waiting until I can put in new valves, etc. before I go in.

The other thing that you may want to check is the thermostat. When my got stuck open a few years back, it had similar symptoms. Turns out when started, the engine wasn't allowed to warm up to normal operating temperature because the cooling system was triggered by the faulty temperature sensor to try to cool the engine down. Once it warmed up everything was back to normal. The most noticeable thing about this is prior to the problem, the engine would idle really high at start up for about 30-45 seconds, then settle into it's idle pur. One day it just started and immediately went to idle, and sometimes would require gas to keep it from stalling. The problem would not occur if the engine was warm. Putting in the new temperature sensor solved it.

90 Amigo, 2.6L, 2WD, 5-Spd Manual