When you install a new master cylinder it is supposed to be bench bled first to get all air out of it, then installed and all wheels must be bled starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder then the next and so on ,next the pads can be sticking on the caliper guide rails that the edges of the pads travel on you must use a wire brush on those contact points to remove any rust and built up brake dust material that can harden and cause the pads to hang up after this is done a light coat of grease just on those points will ease in the travel of the pads on the caliper also check the pads that they fit those points they may have ears on the top and bottom like this [ ] if you invert these symbols that's what most pads are guided by on the top and bottom or you may have anti rattle clips that keep the pads spreaded apart and it's not installed correctly , or your proportional valve is failing ,also steve's answer can be correct if those pads are old and thin the piston is traveling to far and the the same for the rotors if they are to thin ,this will happen
If the brake is not letting go when you release it then check the calipers. The caliper piston is probably coming too far out of its cylinder.
SOURCE: brakes
Did you have this problem before you replaced the M/C? Inspect your brake system for leaks, especially the rubber hoses. Make sure all fittings are tight. Sometimes the caliper's seal around the piston will allow air to **** in, but won't leak fluid. Many cars from the 80's onward had pistons made out of plastic which causes a sticking and leaking problem. Many times rebuilt, loaded with pads, calipers cost just a little more than what a reseal kit costs. They have to be cutting corners somewhere.
If your vehicle has ABS, sometimes you have to hook a scanner up to bleed the brakes correctly. If you don't have ABS, you probably have a proportioning valve and these can cause trouble, especially on a high mileage vehicle.
SOURCE: front brakes are sticking on
Ok Have you recently replaced the pads? Do they act normal after they cool down? Are the pads in good condition, pads that are so worn that the caliper pistons come out beond their normal limit may stick there due to excessively worn pads. If so make sure they are at least factory grade quality Good are bendix, the only thing that can cause your symptoms is a bad master cylinder because it affects BOTH front calipers equally if it was a caliper it is likely to affect only ONE. Let me ask you this happens after driving in heavy traffic or after along drive?
If So there have been countless cases of boiling brake fluid, Old Brake Fluid gathers moisture and its boiling point is lowered, Fluch out ALL the old brake fluid and have new put it.
also is there any chance even the slightest chance that something other than brake fluid even a drop or two is enough to do damage. has been added to the master cylinder at any time? If so you need to replace EVERY PART IN THE BRAKE SYSTEM INCLUDING THE ABS CONTROLLER THAT HAS ANY RUBBER PIECES IN IT CALIPERS HOSES WHEEL CYLINDERS,MASTER CYLINDER just for your information.
I believe you have a bad master cylinder but do not buy a rebuilt one only bran new and preferably from the dealer.
Please contact me if you need more help and would you give me a good rating if you feel my information is helpful.
Thank you ,Randy
SOURCE: Peugeot expert van with stuck on brakes
The power brake servo / booster is what multiplies the pressure from the brake fluid in the master cylinder and uses it to make it easier to stop your car. If your car was stopping fine before you went in for pads and discs, it was most likely NOT at fault before the work was done.
I am not taking sides on this issue, but I have seen this problem rear its ugly head when the pistons in the calipers are retracted incorrectly to put the new pads in (say, by using a c-clamp). Most German and Swedish cars I work on (in the U.S., very few French cars here) require a tool to retract the pistons to avoid cocking them in the caliper cylinder. If the piston or cylinder gets damaged while retracting the piston, OR the boot around the piston gets torn, letting debris/contaminants into the caliper cylinder, you will for sure eventually have a siezed caliper, which is most likely what happened in your case.
At the very least, the pads and calipers were required to be replaced. All the other parts might be you being taken for a ride.
I would advise you to seek out another workshop and ask them what the problem could be, and tell them what you had done. Have your car towed to the other shop if need be.
I hope this helps you, and that this issue is resolved soon. It is very frustrating to keep throwing parts at a car without success.
Bilal Hassan
Clarksville, MD
I just went to Brake Masters this morning and had them replace the Master Cylinder since I was experiencing the pedal very spongy and going to the floor. When they replaced the Master Cylinder and they gave me back the car, the brakes were still spongy and going to the floor. I addressed this to them and they took another look at it, but when I took it for a second time, the brakes were extremely spongy. It was almost like they gave me back my car in worst condition to when I brought it in. Can you help?
SOURCE: Front brakes lock up causing hot and smoking front brakes.
I have 1999 ply voager The front passager brake will stick and get hot.I took it to a shop, They replace the both calb and passager brake line. It was fine for a few days and then the front passager did it again, I took it back to them they bleed the line again but it still does it. I called them they said to bring it back in and they will change out the passager calb it could have been bad even know its new. Does anyone know what would cause this
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