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It will be a position sensor problem Check the air gap and check that the censor rotor is tight and that there is no material getting in the air gap causing a problem
align the key way and push it on the end of crank shaft install a ballencer installition kit with bearing abd tighten till its flush dont hit with hammer this causes bad ju ju in the thrust bearings in the engine
Could be a battery cable connection, faulty starter, or the neutral safety switch. You would need to know if you have battery power at the starter terminals when it fails to crank.
by not turning over i`m guessing that you mean the engine won`t crank over,if you mean won`t start when the engine turns over then that is a different path of diagnosis.if you mean that it starts to turn crank over but stops almost immediately then this could be a weak battery,or bad starter with a bad spot in the starter,that`s why it will start sometimes and sometimes not as the starter hits and misses stopping on the bad spot.if you mean it cranks over fine but will not start then this could be a fuel pump going bad,a dirty throttle body,a bad crank of cam sensor,these usually set a code in the computer and sometimes turns on the check engine light sometimes not.you should have the computer checked for codes to see if there is any,or just a wiring problem for the ignition system
I find that in most fuel injector cars this can happen if the car is not given a couple of seconds to pump enough fuel to charge the injectors properly, especially on warmer days.
Try this: The next time you test this, instead of putting in the key and turning it all the way to start in one smooth move, try moving the key to the ON position, leave it there for a couple of senconds (you should hear the fuel pump whirr for a couple of senconds, then shut off. This means it is finished charging the injectors to the right pressure) then move the key to the start position to crank. See if that helps... (it has helped me...)
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