Steering/suspension hop and shutter

Make sure the steering wheel is not close to one of the "steering wheel position lock stops" before turning the key.

There is some castor in the suspension. (all this means is that the wheels will try to return to straight ahead when the steering wheel is released. It has to do with weight of the vehicle and suspension geometry).

There are locking points in the steering system so that if someone hot wires your car they will only be able to drive around in circles. How far will they get?

Your key may be getting stuck in between the return tendency of the castor and the locking notch or dog or whatever.

Turn the wheel to lift up the front of the car slightly (that means more toward not straight ahead. It may help to think of the steering wheel as a jack for the front end of the car).

Once you lift the car off the key it should turn and come out easily

could be u joints in the steering column , rack and pinion out of adjustment or something binding up under the steering wheel

Hi, it could be your track rod ends they are the brunt of your steering and if the ball joints are worn that's what you get vibration and if really bad the car can wander slightly of a straight line at speed and you have to keep slightly correcting the steering. Also check your discs for warping as they can get to thin they may look ok to the eye but if they are thin and warped you will find that if you brake hard and they are warped the brake pedal will slightly go up and down under your foot pressure.

Wearing on the inside can be caused by an excessive camber angle or excessive toe out, or both. Either of these can be caused by worn or damaged suspension parts. Camber affects Caster, and Camber and Caster affect Toe. Toe affects the Thrust Angle. (These are the major suspension angles involved in wheel alignment) The "dishing" or "cupping" is caused by what is sometimes called "wheel-hop" this can be caused by worn-out struts or shocks and can also be caused by tires that are seriously out of balance.

The recommended "Fix" would be to inspect the ENTIRE suspension system to check for loose and/or worn and/or damaged parts. Replace any of these parts as necessary. Then replace and balance the tires and head straight over to the alignment shop to have all of your suspension angles set to manufacturer's specifications. (Most tire stores also have an alignment machine)

I had a chev truck do that once . It was the tires were out of balance. A friend of mine had to put stablizer shock on the steering tie rod to stop his. It looks like a long shock that mounts to the frame and the tie rod shaft. Good Luck

You shouldn't need to replace 2 pumps,or even one. It shouldn't whine,where you hear it, driving.
I would change the steering rack,flush the cooler and pump. Still got a whine ,your getting bad rebuilt pumps

yep, cv joint most likely.

Its probably an over-tight drive belt such as on the power steering or alternator.

If the belt has been replaced recently it may needs slackened off slightly due to an over-keen mechanic.

a arm bushings worn out

you may have a driveline problem. the driveline may have gone out of round. And that causes the rear of the vehicle. Can you recall if you hit solid under your vehicle at some point ? check to see if you can 'see" anything out of the ordinary with the driveline. If not check the suspension. struts or shock absorbers. Push down at the back of the vehicle hard. if the shocks/struts are good it will only spring back up and stop. If they are bad the vehicle will bounce more than once. you need shocks /struts. I think it may be the driveline that is out of line and needs replacing.